Upshotknothole
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Posts posted by Upshotknothole
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Just now, TJS said:
Yes, the banana from a '93 bolts in. Just have to use the '93 linkage too.
Cool, I'm missing the linkage but I'm sure I can find it online.
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Just now, TJS said:
What I know about the 1100 swap ...or what I think I know....
Loose the side motor/frame bracing and it.'s a straight swap. You can use the 750 wiring harness, just note the increase in rev limit.
Thanks
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1 minute ago, TJS said:
Brakes and rotor are a sweet find! Strange for them to be on a road bike, not a track bike!?!?!?!?
Yeah, the brakes and rotors were the first thing I spotted that made me want to grab it. Nothing else on the bike even says track bike to me, all fairly stock other than the white paint over what I'm guessing was a blue and white bike.
Are the 92/93 banana swing arms interchangeable with the 94/95 braced swing arms? I've got a banana swing arm that I want to swap out for that braced one.
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So this popped up for sale for $200 last month and I grabbed it primarily for the swing arm, brakes, straight spoke wheels, and the Yosh carbon exhaust. Now I keep thinking about keeping it and building it back up, but the 750s were big fat pigs. Do the W 1100 engines drop in to the 750 frames as easily as the oil cooled ones? I’ve been checking Eblag and the W 1100 engines here in the states are going for about $1800. Any other easy mods with the Ws? This is newest GSXR I’ve ever owned. Any easy swing arm upgrades?
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I know Yosh made a hop up kit for the GSXR 400 that also fit the Bandit 400, but no idea on the part number.
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If you’re running full fairings, the headers are totally hidden on those bikes. Put a fresh coat of spray paint on them. Or even better hide a turbo in the fairing.
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Teapots didn't really change much between first and second gens. Any of those 600/750 exhausts should fit. And stay away from all the OEM stuff, as others have said, they were extremely heavy.
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First gen 600 and 750 teapots were all dual exhausts. No idea what that's off of. Looks like it was OEM on something by the shitty welds. Also the spacing looks wrong and usually 2 & 3 are slight proud of 1 & 4 for clearance issues.
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Just saw this. If you need photos, I need to pull my tank tomorrow and I can get you what you need. I also have the factory manual that I can check for cable routing. Also late gen slingshot harnesses are the same for the 750 and 1100.
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50 minutes ago, Kimberkatana said:
Slightly different subject but what cam cover breather do I need to clear the frame cheers
Which ever one fits, all the slingshot breathers should be interchangeable. If it’s going in a teapot frame, the breather should be one of the few things that won’t hit anything. Just run a hose off it and plumb it to a catch can or a filter.
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If you find the dot head won’t work because of clearance issues, the next best thing is to use the dot cams in the blandit.
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MK2 B12s got totally different carbs for emissions, swap out the intakes and none of the throttle bodies are a direct fit, but early 600s are the most commonly used on here. I’ve got a MK2 B12 engine that I need to do the same thing to at some point.
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7 hours ago, Tony Nitrous said:
I’ve run a pair on Renthals for about 15 years, on flat bars the angle looks very odd and wrong. Surprisingly dispite not even being able to take the tops off without losing fluid, they have worked OK. I was expecting there to be dramas but never had any. They do look strange though!
Same, I’ve had the brake on an LSL bar for about the same amount of time and it works fine. Keep telling myself I’m going to swap it out for a Brembo RC at some point, but I kinda like the look of the coffin reservoir on the bike.
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First gen busa masters are a pretty flush coffin style as well, but they’re designed for bars with a bit of drop to them.
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So, going by this guide, I went to swap in a set of RS38s into my 92 750N(US) that currently has the stock BST38 carbs.
Not even close to fitting. Pulled my carbs today and measure them and the inlets, even measured the ID on the carbs to make sure they were 38s. My BST38ss carbs have an OD of 46mm, inlets are about 45mm ID. Even verified that I had the stock inlets and those numbers match up.
Guess I’ll see how worn out the inlets are on the old dot head I have sitting on a shelf, as the slingshot 750 inlets are getting harder and harder to find.
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14 minutes ago, wraith said:
I can check at the weekend but this was doing it with the Dyna coils and now the standard coils, it's (I think) just doing it on number 4 at the minute, as it was doing it on number 1 and 2 and 3 at any given time lol
Yeah, mainly just thinking out loud here. If it is the Dyna2000, can you hook up a multimeter or timing light and make sure you’re actually getting signal to the coil for every time it should fire?
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Just a thought before you pull it all apart. As these are wasted spark, if your leads are long enough, can you swap 1 and 4? See if #1 starts acting up on #1 rather than #4? The fact that it keeps acting up mainly on #4 makes it sound like it’s between the coil and the head if it’s not carb related. If the leads aren’t long enough, can you swap them between the outputs on the coil? Also what happens if it’s not running on #4 and you only pull the cap off the plug and put it back on? Don’t bother pulling the plug, only move the lead around to see if it’s a bad connection/short.
Usually when I’ve dealt with ignition problems, it’s both leads coming off the coil if it’s a signal issue, or only one lead if it’s a shit connection.
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Did a nice long ride today, weather was up around 30, still getting what I’m guessing is heat soak in the carbs. After awhile of sitting in slowish traffic, revs still hang up around 4-6K. Below that they close normally, and if I took it up to 8-9K, they acted normal. Thinking about just ordering up new emulsion tubes from dynojet and seeing how they react. The weather is too nice to pull the bike off the road for very long right now.
Otherwise they still feel pretty good. Going through the mountains I had it up to around 130MPH, power was starting to fall off a little, but I think we were up around 4K feet.
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Anyone have slingshot 750 braces?
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Yeah, easier to go with a larger front sprocket than a smaller rear. Better for the chain too.
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I think it might be part of the choke linkage, but not positive.
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You can still find NOS and aftermarket speedo cables.
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Thanks, I’ll measure it up and order a sleeve then.
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So I’ve got a 750 that I want to stick an 1127 into, but I’m not positive that it’s going to stay a 7/11 in the long term. Might give the engine a rebuild over the winter and some new carbs if I can ever find a proper exhaust for it. Trying to decide if I should drill out the frame to fit the 12mm lower rear engine bold from the 1127, and sleeve the mounts later, or just run a sleeve inside the 1127 and leave the frame alone?
If this was my only GSXR I’d just say fuck it and sell off the 750 lump, but I’ve got a 7/11 and an 11/12 that I need to finish and get back on the road and I still like the way 750s rev out and they’re fun to ride from time to time.
Bought a 750 W for parts, now I’m thinking about keeping it.
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
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I've got a K series 1K swing arm on an oil cooled bike already, might go the same way. Do the Ws not have the problem the slingshots had with the top shock mount being too far forward for most modern swing arms?