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Upshotknothole

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Posts posted by Upshotknothole

  1. They're only leaking when the bike is off. I already swapped out the stock petcock with a Pingel as the stock one wasn't sealing very well anymore and the tank would empty itself over night. Took it out for the first ride last night and it is also slow to return to idle at times, more so if pointing up hill and less so if pointing down hill at a stop. The Pingel helps, but they're still emptying the fuel lines and leaving the garage smelling of gas. Float needle valves? I also suspect I need to adjust the floats too.

  2. Check the emulsion tubes too. If the needles are extremely worn, the tubes are usually shot too. In the states, if the needle height is adjustable, it's aftermarket, not sure about the UK.

  3. I've still got a couple old Yosh 750 headers that look exactly like that one, with at least the same amount of rust. The can might be from a later system, but that header looks like a Yosh to me. It's been too long since I've seen a V&H to remember what they look like.

  4. I ended up ordering the Ram Airs from the UK, pretty cheap and showed up in about a week. Haven't had a chance to fit them yet, hopefully in the next few nights I'll have a chance to pull the carbs and clean them get the new filters fitted.

  5. 2 minutes ago, suzook12 said:

    Don't be tempted to fill with water before welding, did that on an old kwak and tank rusted out in a very short time, was only empty for about a month while getting repaired and sprayed...

    The welder I'll be going to has a trick that he's used on all of the tanks that he's welded. Holds the tank opening to a car exhaust for 5 minutes and fills the tank with exhaust fumes and closes it. It's worked so far.

  6. I have I believe 4 different tanks at home, I'll play around with all of them to check. I have a mix of 750 and 1100 tanks in both the California(stupid fucking emissions crap) and standard varieties. Similar thing happened to me, stock petcock other than not flowing enough, stopped closing all the way and dumped a good part of the tank on the floor of my garage.

    I also found that here in the states, the steel Pingel bung for welding to the tank is only about $12.

  7. So I'm currently waiting on a new set of replacement rubber spacers for the tank, but with the stock 1127 head still on the engine, the pingel valve barely clears the top of the carb when turned off. I also have a dot head sitting on the shelf that I'd like to swap over and I know that I'll have even less clearance after that. So I'm thinking about getting one of these bungs welded directly to the tank so I can ditch the adapter plate and gain a little bit more clearance.

    http://www.pingelonline.com/Fuel-Valves/steel-tank-bung.asp

    Has anyone used one? Also is there any difference in the clearance with a 750 or an 1100 tank? Getting the whole bike painted in a couple of months, so I don't mind chopping and welding the tank right now. Cheers

  8. I can't remember if it was on the facebook page or the old forum, but I remember seeing somewhere a wiring diagram for using an R6 coil lead with COPs and hooking it up to the stock harness. Does anyone happen to remember it or have a copy of it or know where to find it? Not necessarily expecting any performance improvements out of it, but there's currently fuck all for space to get to the coils with all of my wiring moved back inside the frame. I've already got an R6 harness to hack up and will be buying COPs shortly. Thanks.

    IMG_2959.JPG

  9. Sorry to bump an old thread, looking to order the ram air filters for the RS38s on my 7/11 and wondering if anyone could list which size to order. As I'm ordering from the states, I'd rather not have to order multiple times if I get the wrong size. Cheers.

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