Upshotknothole
-
Posts
912 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Upshotknothole
-
-
Checked Eblag, the 1100 forks have different part numbers on the lowers, and I believe they were Showas.
-
51 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
Could be 1100 Stanchion clip-on's on top of yoke "750 are under"
The markings on the fork lowers are for the 750 forks, unless the 1100s used the same lowers, but I don’t think they did.
-
Were the 750 or 1100 USD forks KYB? As the right fork has giant KYB stickers on the front.
-
So my GSXR750n(US) has a blown fork seal and I’ve been putting it off for ages to get it fixed. Someone stripped the left caliper bolts at one point, drilled and tapped the caliper for larger bolts, and drilled out the holes to fit. I’d been holding off until I could either swap the lower, the whole fork, or the whole front end as I have a nice set of PM calipers and rotors to put on it. Over the past week it’s started to finally really leak when parked, and today I was going to swap in a W fork just as a temporary fix while I get that seal replaced. Then I noticed this.
The fork on the left is the stock fork, the one on the right is a 750W. They’re supposed to be the same length, 740mm. My stock forks are 762mm from the bottom of the caliper to the top of the cap, the W is about 740. Did anyone extend these forks for racing? I don’t know the history of the bike, but it came with some nice Yosh bits, including a Yosh top triple. The forks are also raised pretty high in the triples, but it always handled really well so I left them alone.
If these forks have had a lot of work done to the internals, I’d like to keep them. Can I swap out the lower from a W to fix the drilled out caliper holes? They’ve got the same part number, other option would be bushings, but I’d rather not. I’ve got new seals and oil for the forks, but I hate working on suspension and would rather not attempt it myself.
I’m going to reassemble the bike today to get it off the stands, here’s the bike and the lower with the drilled out caliper holes.
The last thing that I noticed was that the backs of the caliper mounts have been ground down, I’m guessing to fix different calipers in the past. I really wish I knew the history on this bike, but the guy I bought it off of had no idea about any of the mods. Here’s the other fork lower showing the ground down area for the caliper.
Thanks for any information on these types of fork mods and what parts are interchangeable.
-
RS36s will be nice and streetable with an 1127. 38s move the power more to the top end, and 40s are all top end. Different riding style as others have said from standard CVs, but you'll get the hang of it, and they look and sound way nicer than stock carbs.
-
They have barely any rubber, only where it mounts to the lower part of the frame below the engine and on the sides of the head. They didn't use push pins back then.
Parts #4, #5, and #6/13 are the main things holding your fairings together. 3 on each side to hold the mid to the upper, and 3 more to hold the lower to the mid. Then rubber mounts for 7-10 and 14-19.
-
Might be just enough of the clips, way more screws than you'll need. Check an online parts diagram for your GSXR and it'll show you all the hardware you'll need. That kit looks like half of it won't be needed and you might still need some more of the clips depending on what you already have, definitely not enough for a full fairing kit without any current hardware.
-
I’ve got a US 92, same as your 91, and I’ve looked at mounting a small GPS unit and there’s really no room under the windscreen at all. I’m even running a double bubble. You could always mount it over the speedo. I just keep my phone in my pocket and pull over if I get too lost. Other option is some Bluetooth speakers in your helmet and listen to the GPS.
-
Any idea how many miles are on the engine.
-
39 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
its cylinders 2 and 4 that are cold !!!!!!
Ah, misread that. Carbs then.
-
Could be the ICU, could be the wires in the harness for the second coil since it’s only cylinders 2 and 3. You can always swap the wires around and see if that works.
-
12 minutes ago, baldrick said:
joseph, did your mate get back to you?
or anyone know where i could find a set please?
You need the 1100M/N? I checked partzilla here in the states and they have the intake boots listed as available, but not in stock. They’re usually pretty good about pulling stuff when it’s no longer available.
-
2
-
-
Suzuki has been discontinuing a lot of the old GSXR boots. Can’t find the BST38 intakes for the 750s anywhere in the states now. Hoping someone will start making aftermarket ones sooner than later, as I think all they’re making now are the bandit and gsxf intakes.
-
1
-
-
The M frames had a big curved oil cooler. If you can get your hands on one of those, run it. Bigger than the 1100 or the bandit coolers, and it fits the M body work. Slabbie ones I’m pretty sure are smaller and will need custom mounts.
BST36 or BST38s.
750 air boxes should be the same, but never actually had one so can’t say for sure. The 750j and 750m were slightly different height engines, but there should be enough wiggle room for it to work. Though I believe the M frames were taller, probably just easier to run pods.
Stock 4 pot tokikos are fine. Any of the Suzuki brakes through the 90s should fit, but the 6 pots off the TLs and Busas can be a bitch to fully bleed and don’t really give you that much extra.
-
On 4/18/2023 at 12:50 PM, rideordive2ss said:
Bst38ss mikuni carbs on a 91 750. While trying to reinstall the carbs I pressed and snapped the male end of this fitting into the hose. After searching all over I've found out that this hose is called the powerjet hose.
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement fitting for this? Pic included. Also how do I remove this fitting? The first picture isnof the lower fitting that is a mirror of the upper.Depending on where in the world you are and how the carbs have been tuned, they very might well be blocked off with 0 jets in the float bowls. The fittings are known to break and I think you have to replace the whole float bowl. I’ve got one carb with a broken fitting on my 750 and it has the hose blocked off. They’re only there for fine tuning of the carbs in smaller increments when still running an air box.
-
1
-
-
Nope, GSXR only, 750s for sure. I can’t remember which 1100s swap over.
-
I believe 88-95 750 rotors were all the same size and off set. Check fitment of EBC rotors.
-
Yeah, stock headers are welded together, also pretty small diameter and heavy. Aftermarket ones shouldn’t be that hard to persuade to fit.
-
1
-
-
The stock dot cams were pretty good if you can find them. Otherwise there are lots of aftermarket cams available for the tappet heads. Can't recall the last time I saw any cams for the shim heads.
-
Some NOS ones pop up on Eblag from time to time as old shops clear out inventory. The more popular ones you can sometimes find reproductions as well. If you can find the Suzuki logo decals for the tank, the rest should be pretty easy to do in paint.
-
Some are drilled for mounting fairings, some aren't. Considering they're usually for looks on most bikes, sticking a fairing over them kinda defeats the purpose.
-
1
-
-
Two piece upper fairing mount, mids bolt on to the sides of the head, and lowers bolt on to brackets that come off the lower frame rails. The lower brackets and head mounts are easy to get, the upper fairing bracket is gonna probably be pricy.
-
2
-
-
I think there are some adjustable pegs on amazon and Eblag, but I’ve never owned a slabby, so not sure how the stock pegs mount on them.
-
As others have said, there really isn’t much for those 600 lumps. They were the detuned small displacement version of an already detuned 750 engine. Keep an eye out for GSXF750 engines as they tend to be pretty cheap, and easy to swap GSXR cams into. Also upgrade that suspension and brakes on the 600F, they’re crap.
Extended 750 USD forks?
in Oil Cooled
Posted · Edited by Upshotknothole
More info
I also measured up the forks, 50/54. The 1100s and Ws had different shaped bottoms as well on the upper stanchions where the seals sit. These are definitely oil cooled 750 forks, maybe 1100 internals?