Upshotknothole
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Posts posted by Upshotknothole
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6 minutes ago, Qwik said:
At the moment I am. But that may have to be upgraded. At least a set of heavier springs and i’m thinking about upgrading both (clutch and brake)master cylinders to Brembos
You can run heavier springs, but stick with OEM frictions and steels. None of the aftermarket clutches compare to OEM. Brembo master with braided lines is always a nice upgrade for the brakes.
For the clutch, search on here, there's one specific Brembo M/C that works best with the oil cooled clutches, but I can never remember which one it is.
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Get an impact driver with JIS bits. Regular phillips bits slip out of Japanese screws. You can replace all of them with allen head screws when you rebuild it, but anything on a Suzuki that looks like a phillips is actually a JIS screw and really needs the correct driver. The intake boots take a JIS #3 bit, carbs are a mix of JIS #1 and #2.
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4 hours ago, Qwik said:
The Holeshot kit is 10.8-1 (stock is 9.5-1) so I’m assuming 91octane vs the 87 they call for now. I run nonethanol that only comes in 91 octane. So that’s a non-issue anyway.
It'll be fine with that gas. Are you running a stock clutch with your setup?
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36 minutes ago, wraith said:
Don't know about bandit engines not being hammered as much as gsxr engines, the b12 was the bike to Streetfighter and Wheely everywhere at one point because they where easier to find and cheeper then a gsxr1100 MK1 more than the MK2.
Here in the states, at least on the west coast where I’ve always lived, the bandits were more of an old man/touring bike, and everything with a full fairing got ridden into the ground. Most people here still think street fighters are crashed sports bikes that you didn’t have the money to repair. If you wanted to look cool when you pulled up to the coffee shop, you needed something with a fairing, and ideally a matching jacket and helmet. The US also doesn’t give a damn if you’re 16 and want to buy a liter bike or a busa for your first motorcycle to learn on, helps keep the used sports bike parts cheap.
The other thing that we don’t have here is anything even close to MOT. Want to register a motorcycle? All you need to do is let them verify the VIN and it should have lights on it, but they don’t give a damn about making sure it’s safe for the road…and I’ve seen so many bikes over the years that should not have been on the road. So that sports bike that won’t pass MOT over there and gets sold off as a project, will get ridden for a few more years here until it’s really destroyed.
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They keep getting brought up in the threads here, so definitely keep an eye out for a GSX1100F(power screen or in the states "katana", but they weren't really a katana) engine or complete bike if you can find one for a good price. They were the best sport touring engine out of all the oil cooled lumps. Otherwise bandit engines as they're newer and usually don't get hammered on quite as hard as the GSXRs.
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Holeshot and APE have both been doing it for a long time. Holeshot probably has more experience with the bandits and doing mild street tunes on them. Give Holeshot a call first and see what they recommend, APE is good for machine work and any parts that Holeshot doesn't stock. I agree with DAZ, stay away from doing a crazy high compression build. Nothing wrong with going with forged pistons, but use a base gasket to keep the compression reasonable for using pump gas.
Years ago a took a friend's bandit with a 1216 kit from Dale Walker for a test ride, big bore, lumpy cams, exhaust, and jet kit. Tons of mid range power, and a nice lumpy idle like an old muscle car.
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Bandit engines are typically cheaper and easier to find. I'd stick with the bandit, and as I assume this will be a winter project, and you already ordered some extra parts for your blown engine, do a 1216 kit. You're in the states, so Holeshot parts will be easy to get, and there's APE for anything else. Maybe some mild cams on top of the big bore to wake it up a little, but nothing crazy to help keep all that mid range power that you're after for the side hack.
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This one is nicer than the one I have. I didn't realize I couldn't get the oil pan off with the engine in the stand until I tried and managed to spill a lot of oil in the process.
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Folks have posted up the measurements for engine stands on here in the past. They also pop up on Eblag, but mostly in the UK. Don't think I've ever seen any on there that have been here in the states. Good luck on the rebuild, can you tell where the oil is coming out?
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It's a shitty photo, but you should be able to figure it out from this. The pilot air jet is on the front intake of the carb, it's the right one of the two air jets there.
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Any oil cooled engine will bolt right in. I think the compression should be up around 150, but that's just a guess off the top of my head. Check the archives, plenty of info in there on engine swaps.
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The last time I contacted Dynojet for replacement emulsion tubes, they wanted me to pull my tubes out of the carbs and take photos for them. I know the tubes are worn, I already had to lower the needles to help with the bogging in the mid range. And I'm not pulling the carbs off a running bike that I ride all the time to take photos for them. Just found a set of Mikuni emulsion tubes on Eblag for $40 shipped, looks like I'll be going back to a Factory Pro kit. Eventually this 750 will get flat slides and I won't have to deal with this crap as much anymore.
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10 minutes ago, imago said:
I've never had anything to do with those, so that probably explains why I've not seen much emulsion tube wear. A known fault like that can lead people down the wrong path sometimes because the fault and cure grow from a model/year specific issue to across the board very quickly.
Again just personal experience, but I've found more knackered dynojet needles than OE. Probably a mix of poor installation and the material that they're made from. There have been a fair few carbs where people have changed needles, jets, tubes, float valves etc chasing a problem without cleaning the carb and it turned out to be shit in the drillings.
I always check the needles first, mainly because I can usually get them out without remove the carbs from the bike. Also if the needles are knackered, the tubes are most likely gonna have some wear as well.
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2 minutes ago, imago said:
I've only ever seen one which was oval (found as you describe) which is why I asked as I've found a fair few ridged, bent or wrongly fitted needles. Not saying the OP is wrong, just that in my experience it's usually the needles rather than the emulsion tubes.
Certain carbs are worse than others for destroying the emulsion tubes. BST38s on the last of the slingshot 750s were notorious for it. I've also seen my share of destroyed needles, especially the aluminum ones.
1 minute ago, Gsxrsam said:It starts with that stupid plastic wedge on needle wearing, that leads to needle tilting and rubbing on emulsion tube....
Someone on here used to sell metal replacements for those plastic wedges, and I think they were for the BST36 carbs.
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Lowering the needles a notch is also a band aid fix for oval emulsion tubes.
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Should be stock. Dynojet used the stock emulsion tubes in their bandit kits.
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52 minutes ago, caferacer175 said:
Mayby the second old DJ ? needle is from US model?? But old one and new one have same emulsion tubes
Probably an old DJ needle then, as they're the only ones that don't use stock Mikuni emulsion tubes.
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7 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Yes they did, here is the reference - E3336.002 - Euro models only (for obvious reasons) I'm not sure they are Ti - more like hard anodised aluminium. A Ti made needle would not wear like the one shown. Compare to the steel OEM which has virtually no wear and Ti is tougher than steel for abrasion wear!
Dunno what that 2nd needle is from but it ain't for a GSXR1100 K / L ! The other 4 are deffo for 36mm CV's on a GSXR1100 K/L 1127cc.
I think DJ just doesn't bother listing that part number here in the states to avoid confusing people, as we only got BST36s from 89-92. The last time i emailed DJ earlier this year they told me their needles are Ti. The DJ set that I have in my 750 with the stock BST38 carbs are also Ti. Either that second needle in the photo is a really old one that wasn't Ti or it's not a DJ needle. Could be an old Factory Pro needle as they sell kits with both Ti and Al.
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Those look like DJ needles, they should be titanium. Not sure if DJ ever did a kit for the 40mm carbs, since we didn't get them in the states. Factory Pro I think made jet kits for them if you should ever decide to use them.
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The little rubber things that the bulbs fit into and push into the back of the idiot lights?
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6 hours ago, Metralla said:
I have the bike almost ready (will post pics once finished) and I have a factorypro kit (not fitted). The only performance mod is a hindle full system.
What do you recommend about jetting? Will I need to upjet? Only MJ? Do I need to raise needles? Do I need to increase pilot jet as well?Follow the instructions that came with the factory pro kit. With only an exhaust on the bike, their stage 1 kit should be pretty close.
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Someone on facebook was making them, don't know their name on there or if they're still making them.
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42 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
I'd use the 1100 shim head in a blown engine (I have on my 1460), shim spitting is unlikely due to lower RPMS.
I feel like if the urban legends about the shim heads spitting shims were true, all of the shim head 750s would have blown up years ago.
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Tried tapping it with a mallet when it’s fully assembled and leaking? When all else fails, hit it with a hammer, and sometimes that will knock the float loose if it’s hung up on something.
Greetings from Finland
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Nice rat bike you’ve got there. I started off on a 600 and by the end it looked similar.