GixxerDale

I run the early R1 shock (2004) on my slabside, which I did at the same time as changing to 17" wheels , this jacks the back up when used with a spacer to miss the battery which makes the ride height about the same , this negates having to play with the side stand. does require milling down the bottom to fit into the suspension banana . Ride height looks fairly normal after although I think the back was about 30mm higher , but this was offset by the 17" wheel being smaller. The R1 shock is a cheap fix and works. I mounted it with the reservoir facing the engine I was worried that it might overheat , but never been a problem so I never fitted a heat shield which was my intention at the start. if doing this mod , I would highly recommend fitting the YSS PD valves to the forks makes a world of difference as well. pics attached

I made a big improvement to my slabby forks , by fitting some YSS PD valve cartridge emulators in them . I also put some fresh progressive springs in as well. the PD valves improve the 'suppleness' of the forks and made the ride much more compliant, they can be adjusted , although it does involve fishing them out of the forks with a coat hanger, which is a bit of a faff until you get the hang of it , but at least saves dropping the forks out. Fairly basic level of engineering required , main element of the works is drilling some holes in the damper tubes. here is a description cut and pasted from wemoto: Improving the performance of damping rod forks A common problem with bikes that have damping rod forks instead of cartridge forks is that the damping can be too harsh, or too easy to bottom out. In the past, this could have been addressed by changing the weight of the fork oil, or adapting the size of the holes in the damper rod that the oil passes through. The drawback of this method is that, quite often, the quantity of oil passing through isn't controlled enough and either too much or too little oil passes through – a bit of a black art, and very hit and miss with results - not an effective solution to damping issues. PD Fork Valves — The better solution PD Fork Valves are the cost-effective solution to this problem. Fitted at the top of the damping rods and held in place with the main springs, PD fork valves control the way the oil is distributed, so that the forks emulate cartridge forks, thus increasing their performance. They offer better control with a progressive feeling, better steering response and a more comfortable ride. How PD Fork Valves work The key to the effectiveness of PD fork valves is in their unique and innovative design. Once installed, they change the shape of the damping curve so that the oil is passed in a more controlled way. Low oil viscosity passes through more quickly, providing more damping; and high oil viscosity passes through more slowly, providing less damping. PD fork valves take the control of compression damping away from the damping rod; once fitted, it will be controlled by the spring preload you set on the valve. They don't make a difference to rebound damping though this can be managed with the oil, which will provide more or less rebound depending on its viscosity. Where can I buy PD Fork Valves? Wemoto stocks YSS PD fork valves, which come in six sizes, suitable for a wide range of applications. YSS provides a full two-year warranty on all its products, for added reassurance. Pics from when I did it attached, the damper rod showing before and after, make sure absolutely no swarf left after drilling. PD valves ready for re assembly: Hope that helps , if you shop about only about £60-70 so cheap fix for slabby forks...... https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GSXR-1100-GSXR1100-1986-1987-1988-YSS-PD-Fork-Valves/172320614454?hash=item281f1be836:g:W88AAOSwMtxXrEdy

Well after a bit of wait a set of used bandit coils and leads arrived off Eblag, and have been fitted , so far so good, seems to have fixed the problem. Thanks for all the advice

thanks that's was what I was thinking, as it is the only component in the ignition system that I have not changed, the Dynacoils are at least 15 years old, and yes it does sound like a cough, I was initially discounting coils on the randomness of the cylinder that dropping out, but I will give it a try .

Hi there, I have an odd problem on my GSXR1100 Slabside which is defeating me, basically between tickover and just open throttle the bike runs erratically, after some investigation I noted that at tickover it was randomly dropping out on different cylinders, with a carb balancer on it the tickover was hunting a bit and every now and again one of the cylinders would 'drop out' for a fraction of a second. Rev it and it would settle for a while and then do it again. the problem does not occur when warming up but once up to temperature starts doing it. when riding at low speed say coming into a roundabout . throttle off and get slight erratic surging, then when throttle is opened slightly bike stutters before picking up suddenly, which can make taking roundabouts interesting as never sure if the bike is going to low side or run wide. Any ideas, much appreciated !!!, some background of bike , and what I have tried so far, including running a spare set of carbs: 1100 slabby with 1200 bandit engine , GSXR pickups & CDI, standard 34mm carbs, Dynacoils, Taylor leads, standard air box with K & N, crankcase breather to K &N rather than to airbox. Swapped out pickups, CDI, carbs, new taylor leads but made no difference replaced rubbers on inlet stubs, played with timing on pickups (have slotted holes on back plate , returned to standard setting), checked all the connections on the LT side of the coils , checked the taylor lead connections , changed the plugs. also monitored the voltage on the system during the rough running , sits at 14.6V with lights off and 13.4V with the lights on, no real fluctuation in voltage. bike is reliable and is charging , took it up to the isle of Man in august, ran fine apart from this problem, and certainly did not lack power at the top end etc. ran the bike on gravity feed from auxiliary fuel tank, that made no difference either. when it drops out almost sounds like it is back firing through the carbs , but not sure?

Thanks for the reply, nice and simple mod, just as I like it.

Hi, sorry if this is a stupid question , bought a bandit 1200 mk1 engine to replace the tired 1127 engine I have in my slabby, took the cam cover off and immediately noticed that the bandit engine does not have a cam chain idler wheel as my 1127 GSXR engine does. My question is , I have some 1052 GSXR cams to drop in (changing the sprockets), I was assuming that these would bolt straight in, but the timing for these etc in the manuals I have for GSXR engines are with the idler wheel, do I need to fit one when bolting in to a bandit engine? if I do I assume there would be a specific model to use as the cam chain on the bandit is different I believe? if I do not have to use an idler, I assume I have to use the bandit timings rather than the GSXR manual settings?