Reinhoud

Gents, I'm thinking of putting a smaller chain on the 1000, anyone who has done this before? Did you notice any difference in performance? Or a more smooth running of the chain? I'm a pretty clueless regarding this, so all information is welcome. The amount of teeth on the sprockets changes too, doesn't it? I do have an off set sprocket on the front, and I'd like to keep the stock ratio, can anyone point me in the right direction, please? Thanks

Now I'm confused.. NA or boost mode? Mine has a rev limiter and a retard function on it, on the retard function there is a test thingy, but that's all. Can you explain it to me, please, I think I'm missing something..

I used the purple one, that made it kill the ignition, took me a while to figure that out, because I did it according to the manual..

I found with mine also that it runs best on standard settings, also with the camshaft. The Dyna does has a function that it can retard the ignition when on boost. When I connected that the bike just died when it hit boost, I think the manual had it wrong wich wire should do this..

I have the impression that with my bike the timing doesn't need to be retarded because of the twin spark. I added a couple degrees for the twinspark and a couple degrees for turbo, I'm quiet sure it was too much retard in the end.

Just curious.. and hopefully I get some useful information.. At how many degrees did you adjust your ignition? I've got an 8 valve engine, Dyna 2000 ignition, the manual says 37 degrees, I also have a twin spark head, "they" say you can retard the ignition a couple of degrees because of that too. So turbo and twin spark, I retarded the ignition about 7 degrees if I remember correctly, but while experimenting with the timing I found out you lose a fair bit of power with the ignition too much retarded. On the net I read 28 degrees ignition timing, but isn't that too much? I've got 1245cc big bore on my GS1000, with the ignition on about 30 degrees she went alright, but nothing spectacular, my mates CBR1000 was stronger in the lower revs... But when I set the ignition on 33 degrees the GS stood straight up on the rear weel in 3rd gear off boost.. It makes a lot of difference. It was the same it threw a rod I know there are a couple of members who have EFI and haven't got the ignition retarded.. So, what did you do?

Do it right straight away, cheaper in the long run, I promise... Ask me how I know..

Ah, that works too? My first plenum was too small, would hardly run of boost..

It's pretty simple, make sure the carbs in good condition, new gaskets and stuff, pitot tubes in the up pipe, and on that you connect the float bowl breather pipes. Some bikes are sensitive on the size of the plenum, mine was, here on this site is also someone who got away with a small plenum. Rule of thumb, plenum size is 2 times the displacement of the engine. If I remember correctly..

I bought a Bosch ignition coil for my car last week, made in China on the sticker..

Stock Suzuki is crap. Don't go cheap, Electrex is good apparently, hasn't failed on mine so far..

No one ever told you about the unwritten rule that when the cylinders come of you need to put a high compression big bore kit on? Off course this goes together with a proper camshaft and matching Mikuni RS carbs...

I got my new pistons in, put one of them in a cylinder, put the lot in the oven on 150 degrees, piston had quite a bit of resistance when I moved it up and down...

I say, GSX1100 with a Wiseco big bore.

Even better..

I would go for Wiseco, reason being, higher compression, it loves it.

Are tool steel pins stronger than stock ones? I did not know that 2.5mm might be stronger.. Thanks

Anyone who know what the thickness/width is of the gears of a GS1000 pump? I ordered a pump, but this pump is 10mm wide, the one I have is 14mm wide..

I've got this, no clue what brand, from a dirt bike probably.

Thanks

Ah, thanks, so mine isn't too bad..

Gents, Anyone knows what an appropiate piston - cylinder clearence would be? (JE pistons) I measure 78.12 on the piston, and 78.26 in the bore.. That should be more than enough, I think, may be even too much? But I have marks in the cylinders, and that got me thinking.. Bike only did about 3000kms on these cylinders, but during adjusting the carbies she has been running too lean for a while. It's a GS1000 So, what would be good? Thanks

Gents, In my collection of "junk" I have 2 different sort of wrist pins, thick wall (3.5mm) and a thinner wall (2.5mm) thickness. I'm going to order new wrist pins in the near future, and I want the ones with the thicker wall thickness (3.5) for a GS1000. (18mm) Anyone knows which model uses the 3.5mm wrist pins? Thanks

Is the rear wheel of a GS750 an option?