Sheep

Yes mate the black wire.It's not going to an engine bolt/chassis but straight to the neg side of the battery....I was assuming that on the test run I could simply un-hook this to remove the unit from further test runs to see if it was causing the faults.Removing just the black wire did not do anything to help. I did take a couple of pics for the project page but they do not show much,not in the coil area anyway.... I cannot find many posts on the net with people experiencing issues however one guy did have issues and it turned out he had wired the launch cut wires (purple red) to the o/e clutch switch just as I have,but found when he removed these wires the unit worked fine.He went on to say the clutch switch needs to be totally independent from the main loom!!!! Might be worth a try. These wires here are the fly leads coming from the coils to the unit

Ok peeps.a little update.... I have now hard wired the coils back as Suzuki intended but I left the fly leads on the coils for the Dyna Limiter.I left those connected too for the test ride so I could check any progress one step at a time. First run showed the problem is still there so I know the superseal connectors to the coils were not to blame.I pulled over to take off the black/negative lead to the battery from the Dyna to isolate that.Tried the run again and it's still the same......So I stopped again and pulled the positive feed for the limiter from the positive side of the coil not thinking it would make any difference as it couldn't work with the black wire off surely,but I was wrong and the bike ran fine and revved as it should..... Checking my wiring diagram at home I found I had wired it correctly,as far as I am aware so it beggars the question why is the Dyna playing me up??...Surely taking off the negative feed to it would have isolated any faults but I wondered whether the coils were feeding any sort of signal back and forth down the positive wire upsetting the firing. I have placed the box as far away from the coils as the wires would let me without extending them that is. Anybody have any ideas why this is behaving like this...I have put a diagram up to enlighten you

That's the thing Dezza,I have all new connectors on the loom.I even took pics of the mods for the project section as I do not take enough for the thread...When I first built the bike I used the quick release connectors simply to make maintenance easier,that way I do not have to remove the coils every time I want to work on the bike.I had issues back then which really turned out to be carbs but at the time I removed the connectors and hard wired the loom to the coils just to irradiate the possibility it was this causing issues. Fast forward to this month and I fitted the connectors again along with new crimps/terminals,all soldered and heatshrunk for good measure.....the coils now have their own fly leads to each wire going to them.Everything was wired carefully and neatly...What I could do is pop off the wire connectors from the limiter then test it.If it still does it then I will hard wire the main loom to the coils,again!... The Dyna limiter does come with piggy-back terminals which you attach to the coils and simply push fit the Dyna wires to them.I didn't like to use them as they were un-insulated and my coils sit close to the tank/frame. The speedo issue may be coincidence but this is the one and only time it has played up...which made me think its the electrics/interference messing with it as it too uses a wire running up the headstock past the coils. Fuel is good and plugs too.....it was running fine 2 weeks ago!!...I may cut my losses and hard wire the main loom anyway and keep the limiter on a fly lead,

Well done Paul......some nice bikes there.

Fuel getting to the carbs.....but is it getting past those into the engine?

Am I right in thinking Taylor leads are carbon cored?..The reason I ask is because I went out today for the first time since fitting the Dynatec DRL400 2 stage limiter and I am having issues with poor/intermittent running...The trouble is I have also re-wired the coil feed wires to incorporate some quick release Superseal connectors so the problem may be those.I just wanted to rule out interference from the leads....The bike ran sweet as a nut last time out and has done all winter so I am ruling out the carbs. If the leads are carbon then I shouldn't get EMI upsetting the limiter so it can only be the coil supply... The symptoms are holding back under full load at anything over 6000rpm with much coughing and popping.Then I may lose cylinders 2/3.A gloved poke under the tank seems to cure it until the next time.Slowly raising the revs in neutral it bounces around 6-7000 rpm.Thinking it could be the limiter I pulled the negative feed to it and it still did it.( the limiter bracket does need attention as it vibrates more than I would like at certain rpm's) Launch function works fine but it's of no use if I cannot rev it much higher lol...oh and when the limiter kicks in it is a smooth cut,not a harsh one. One more thing which I found odd is my speedo which is a bicycle battery type with a pick up from the front wheel.As I was riding carefully home I noticed it was going loopy,sometimes reading,sometimes looking like I had dropped it on the floor but it operated normally once I had got home...Odd...

Love this track but saving for a holiday in June...will come along to watch though.

Nice but I would want to loctite those grub screws in.

Try 'Grumpy1260' for your rubbers Ron.Chris there is sure to have some.

My old Skyline R33 had the factory ceramic bearing turbo fitted but I soon swapped that for a Garrett as modelled by my lad ..Ball bearing all the way.

Mine are rock hard too as they were second hand last autumn to replace my newish ones which had split due to using the incorrect clips....They might be fine but I did like the way the new rubbers could be removed with ease....The old ones do not swell under pressure like the new ones did either...(fnuk) I did notice mine had L and R printed on them but i cannot remember any other marks.

Oh I don't know....I also didn't know the inner/outers were slightly different...

That was something I did consider using....Its another option perhaps.

I have seen a set intake rubbers for sale with clips for a Trumpet Trophy 1200 which also uses the 36mm BDST Mikunis like other Suzuki's.....my question is does anybody know if these may fit an air cooled behemoth like the GSX.....they seem to have the same internal dimensions but I cannot tell if they are slightly angled like the ones on my EFE (2 left,2 right).. The only reason I ask is because they are a third of the price for Suzuki ones and include clips to boot....

KISS...Keep it simple stupid......not that I am calling you stupid you understand Love to see it when its clear coated.

Hahahaha....Just got this.....I was thinking more Fred Dibnah lol. Not a big fan of that style frame though.

Classy....I like it.

While the Yoshi may be pipe one 'must' have you cannot deny how cool having an exhaust called 'Speed Pro Eagle Mach 7' really is....

Could it be leaking through the tensioner itself perhaps??

Have you tried new plugs yet?...I find that plugs nowadays do not tend to last half as long as they used to and they give up the ghost at the faintest wiff of over-fuelling..I find only a good cook in the oven brings them back to life..... Have you tried increasing/holding the revs and seeing if the warm downpipes get hotter....over fuelling on the idle circuit will wet your spark but could clear with grater throttle positions.Rich at idle could point to sticking float needles.

Yeh I have seen some funny prices too....It reminds me of a thread on here not so long ago over the cost of older bikes....If I were to re-home the engine I would put it here first to help other OSS'ers out first....Shame it wasn't complete as I did have a wild idea of a skinny little sprint bike perhaps....My lad has a two stroke motocross so I will still get my smoky fix at least. Btw....thanks for all your help

Ok,..i managed to get to the engine today to have a look at what it is.It seems to be a 'k' engine due to an '88' on the side...it turns over freely but must have been sitting for some time as it is pretty grubby and dusty.It is missing its vertical barrel and has evidence of skirt damage to that piston.The gearbox seems to turn well too but it looks like someone has started to or has removed the cassette at some point as the retaing nuts for the cassette plate are missing.I did not attempt to pull at the box for fear of things flying out all over the shop. Given the cost of parts nowadays for these pocket rockets I am sure I will not have the time or money to rebuild it so I may put it up for sale. One more thing,the crankshaft has a name engraved on the webs,something tuners do but did these bikes have the factory assembler do the same??I have tried googling this but have come up short.I will get some pics up soon.

Bring the DR...it will be a hoot..I remember being passed at Cadwell by a TDR once and thought 'he's having more fun than me'..

Cheer guys...it was just before Xmas...he probably had more bikes in bits than complete lol...... If the engine looked like yours Simbec I would be sourcing a rolling chassis to put it in