Sheep

In the nick of time too woohoo....

Just after you go in main paddock gate iirc..

Out of curiosity are the majority of people arriving Friday?...and also are you taking donations on site for Air Ambulance?

We need to see more of these on the road...I'm a particular fan of the R also...

One more thing before I leave this....do you recommend to keep using mineral oil after the '500 mile' break in period to give it more chance to bed or go straight to semi??...

I saw a post on Arsebook yesterday on the Endurance Legends page stating all info is getting posted now..woohoo..

I reckon I have been using it right,I used it like you said Katanamanger,normally and not letting it labour....I actually thought I have been TOO keen to twist the wrist...mind you it does seem to running better the more I use it...Maybe I am being paranoid....I don't need any more excuse to give it some...Since having it back on the road I haven't stopped grinning!

When you say rag it does that mean I should use the whole rev range say what now!?? Gixer1460

I did look down the plugs on one occasion Wraith before starting it and found some oil on the (MTC) piston crowns,3 and 1 if I remember correctly.It was not pooling but more of a thin layer on top.However,next time I rode it and cooled it I noticed the crowns were dry,well,the ones I could see as I had the tank on this time.I did have a little caked on dross on the plug of #3 and I noticed a touch of white soot in the exhaust port which could be a sign of burnt anti-freeze (not applicable) or other non fuel burn off,well that's what the 'net says lol... I wonder if I removed the plug lead from the suspect cylinder before start up would help ie it wouldn't burn the oil if no fire present...but that will only work if I knew exactly which set of valves were weeping,if any....

This is looking better every post!!....Me likey

Ok,..probably being paranoid but I have done roughly 350 miles on a new forged 1230 motor in the old EFE,on its second mineral oil change to date,carbs running almost perfect,ran at various speeds through the 'box,acceleration and throttle-shut blah-de-blah...in fact I haven't been pampering it but simply using it sensibly but a little harder recently as it seems to be getting smoother and 'settling' in.(Probably no more than 7500rpm so far).Compression reads 160 psi give or take 5 in all four I know recommendation say 500 miles or so for run in but I thought I'd ask now but in an earlier post I mentioned I was experiencing blue/white smoke on cold start-ups which mainly point to valve seals but everything from the barrels up have been renewed including APE seals.It does not smoke for the first 2-3 seconds but then a bluey smoke emits from the pipe after that for around 15-20 seconds at a guess.I normally pull away soon after starting as not to annoy the neighbours and I leave a small cloud behind me but by the time I have ridden 50 yards its all but cleared up.It does not smoke after that unless I rev the motor when stationary but then its dark grey (fuel) and only then very slightly.I see nothing at all behind me when riding. I guess I could have damaged a seal when putting them on which if it is that then I am not worried really but do you any of you peeps think its anything else...Katamangler did say it could be simply the forged pistons which I have heard/read about on various other bike/forums which makes sense..it is using oil at the moment but then it would do if its burning it...the first oil change showed no swarf/debris but a little pearl which I'm told is normal. Am I just worrying about nothing or should I give it more time??...(I will consider pushing the bike away from campers at Donny as not to smoke you out )

Makes sense Reinhoud.....I just wanted something different really.Its all out of st st..runner length is not much shorter than my under-sump manifold and I tried my best to get them equal length as each other...i originally mated it to a 2.5" link pipe to a short fat can but this grounded out on sharp corners and the can was getting tiresome due to how loud it was.Today I have reverted back to a sensible 2" link pipe and Yoshi tri oval can.Sounds better,corners better.

Its running a lot better now after putting 0.9 air jets in.....Idle is still not that of a 2017 Gsxr but then again the slides do have some flutter.Pulling away is much cleaner now,plugs look good but I have yet to do a plug chop on WOT as I am still running it in....nearly there..

I'm using Gsxr1100 'arm and K5 shock (a little on the soft side)...the previous owner fitted a Kwak 5.5 wheel,..but I guess it depends on whether you want to mod the frame to any extent... Up front a set of K1 forks went straight in,again maybe a tad soft but much better brakes I find.

I reckon a skinnier front wheel would suit too

Funny you should bring this topic back up because tonight I have mostly been cutting pipes about,again, after a slight altercation with the tarmac and pipe lol....I am now routing it tucked under some more...plus the can is fooking loud so the Yoshi is going to be bastardised!!

Could you put my leathers on and take my bike around to make people think its me

That's cool..I was just wondering really but I guess space would be at a premium the nearer you got to the paddock.I see there is some new infield camping but that may be for other events in the year....I too was thinking sleeping in my work van but that depends whether I am allowed to use the van on a weekday (Friday) otherwise I will simply trailer and tent it..I too may have another in tow in the form of my teenage son who is starting to take an interest in bikes...he won't mind where he kips lol

I'm familiar with the circuit but not the camping..where is it/will it be situated??...I have seen the Park Farm facilities but they only have pedestrian access to the circuit or does the circuit have their own area for campers?

Fuck my old boots..Really???...He is only 10 mins down the road from me.I will give him a bell.

I read on a Mikuni site that if you have to go more than 3 turns either way to get the fuelling you desire means you need to go up/down a size on the jet...its a shame they do not make a 16 size jet to get a happy medium.... I have been looking for some air jets but no luck yet this side of the Atlantic lol...

I have backed the pumper right off after advice from Grumpy so it didn't mess with the running in period. As for the air jets (0.8's) that's quite a good idea.It also saves taking the carbs off the granite-like rubbers lol.... Oh and just to mention,these carbs have always had Ramair individual foam filters with rubber 'collars' fitted and I have noticed that they have a 4mm step inside them which actually obscures the air jets,it doesn't block them off i think but it can't be very good for them receiving free flowing air surely??

Hyosung perhaps lol

I will try to keep this short,as I have already written a longer version but pressed the wrong key and lost it all....arse. I have fuelling issues I believe with my RS36's.Runs well from 1/4 throttle up....still running it in so cannot WOT. I have had it bored to 1230,MTC forged pistons along with reworked head and lots of associated new stuff that goes with it. Thought I had an issue with oil burning due to blue smoke on start up although that has decreased significantly..(oil hanging in bore hatch or popped stem seal had been discussed)but I did everything very carefully when rebuilding. Anyway,when its hot and when in neutral I rev the motor,it emits grey smoke,pops a red flame or two on over-run and idle is crap..always has been,even after a bench synch and I cannot get all four gauges to match when using those....maybe three,not four. Tonight I took a video for a mate showing the little oil smoke but it was hardly there,some water vapour perhaps..good..but it was still rich.I have all the correct jets in according to the book,new last year too,mixture screws out 1/2 turn...but I tried an experiment...I turned the screws out 3 turns on two carbs...engine got slightly lumpier and it started to emit a blue flame at idle...(I didn't rev the motor)..ok..so its definitely getting richer...I then turned the screws on all four in till they stopped...the idle smoothed out,and the flaming stopped and it gave of almost no smoke/fumes when revved..now we are getting somewhere it seems...before you ask they are new 17.5' idle jets,as recommended by Mikuni.I replaced them when I found 120's in there last year.... My question is (there is always a question lol) can I go down a size to 15 idle jets??...I know its physically possibly to fit them but should I.Logic tells me yes if it sorts my idle/low fuelling out and it will give me more scope for adjustment on the screw but I would have thought an engine with increased cc would demand more,not less!!...am I wrong??Maybe these have been the issue all along. Oh and do the mixture screw affect the whole fuel range or just the idle circuit.? Any advice appreciated...I need it running well for Donny

I do like those rearsets....