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Dual springs are standard configuration from memory of last time lifting the lid on a GSX motor, I may be wrong but there's plenty of knowledge on this forum to confirm.

It's not exactly difficult for the seller to do a compression test, which would help buyers. I try and avoid breakers, except for a couple of well-known trustworthy types. OSS engine prices are a bit silly now as advertised by breakers, and the tight-arsed bastards usually even also remove as many bits as they can to sell seperately from the blandit engine encrusted with fossilised dirt with broken exhaust studs they want 900 quid for . They need to parachute down from cloud-cuckoo land.

I totally agree. We have tried different carbs, different clocks and ECUs . The ECU that was on it had rounded plugs with seals. It now has a different loom with the older looking ECU and squared plugs with no seals. That didn't make a difference until we managed to get a gear selector switch. Fitted the switch and took it for a run. Power felt the same even after 86mph. It did feel like it was going to hold back at all. Sadly the bump obviously dislodged something and it dropped back to 86mph. So I'm thinking the gear selector is making the difference.

Fuel flow is good, I did check the breather pipe and ran it with the cap undone . Straight up to redline in first. It was pulling hard until it hit the bump then went back to only doing 86 mph. Doesn't matter what gear your in, it will pull strong until 86mph.

After getting the dynojet kit dialled in on my b12, using an air/fuel gauge, thought I’d fine tune each carbs pilot screw using a colourtune, I’d had good results in the past doing this on my gs1000, before the colourtune tuning I’d settled on 3 1/4 turns out on each carb to get the air/fuel reading that I was after, around 12.5 at idle, looking for that point with the colourtune, just before the orange flame turns to blue got very mixed results on each carb, carb 1) 5 turns out carb 2) 2 1/8 turns out carb 3) 2 3/4 turns out carb 4) couldn’t get any trace of an orange flame even with pilot screw all the way out , so settled on 5 , same as carb 1. this setup gave 12.5 on the a/f gauges and definitely felt better than with all screws at 3 1/4, but carb 1 and 4 it would seem , at 5 turns out,want a larger pilot, does that seem a reasonable conclusion ? For the 2 outer carbs to want a larger pilot than the inner 2 ? running pipercross dual pods, dynojet kit,stock pilot jets, carbs are very clean and balanced

thank you! I will send them a message and confirm if this fits. I am just a little worried that the seat pressure would be too much with the dual springs on the stock system. If anyone has experience using these please let me know. And thanks again.

try this; https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/362237812219?chn=ps&_ul=GB&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=362237812219&targetid=1814673647222&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9046844&poi=&campaignid=19089547614&mkgroupid=142438599285&rlsatarget=pla-1814673647222&abcId=9303859&merchantid=7205984&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0o6GpKuchgMVxpJQBh3A0g_NEAQYASABEgIsbvD_BwE

Hi All, I have been searching for a new set of valve springs for a rebuild over the last 6 months, but only seem to be findings single or pairs of springs from different sellers on Eblag. I was wondering if anyone here could help me out in locating some NOS valve springs, maybe in sets of 4 if possible (so far I have tracked down 10 from 4 different seller, as you can imagine the shipping price alone is close to 200% of the actual price of the springs), or if anyone had tried an alternative set of springs that seem to work just as well or better than OEM. Any help would be greatly appreciated. OEM part no: 12921-11410 Thanks in Advance!

In the UK that would be a magnet for crooks - best in the world (for vehicle crime)

@wraithand @TonyGee both make great points, the other thing is why was it removed? Was it goosed and replaced ?,is it from a crashed bike ? Any damage ? How has it been stored ? I've pulled the heads off motors only to find it's been sat with a valve open and moisture has got in a cylinder and rusted that bore ,or worse if it's been sat outside . if you get no guarantee then it's a core for a rebuild imho

Been sat for a while so basically, spares or repairs so £250 max, something thats looked after and heard running? £400 max. £700 for something thats been sat? id want the whole bike.

some breakers ask way to much for an engine !!!! i picked up a complete B12 in a million bits for £500, the engine hadn't run for nearly 10 years but i do know the owner and bike with less than 30.000 miles on it, i did a compression test on the engine (it was out of the frame) and they wern't to bad, its now in my bandit as the bandit engine i took out has a dodgy gearbox !!!! it runs sweet. so good ones are out their. buying one with no history is a gamble but should be cheap.

In The Netherlands there's a government web site you can go to, typ in the number of the license plate and all the info will show up. Same as in Australia (rego check), I asume the USA also has something like that?

If a good running engine complete £700 seems to be the asking price theses days on Eblag but if you don't know anything about the engine and it's been just sat under a bench for years £250 but I wouldn't touch it till I've at least taken the cam cover off, as the cams will probably be fu**ed and are very hard to find theses days. Don't forget if it's been sat there, you will at least need the replace the valve stem seals as they would probably be hard by now, so a gasket set will be needed and that will be at least £150 going of the last I get but that was about 3 years ago. Seen b12 engines up for sale on here for £400 or less in good condition. Don't see many gsx1100f engines

What should i be paying for a engine with no idea of its miles or history Theres a gsxr1100 k engine local to me asking price £700 but no idea of its miles or history or if it even runs sat in a workshop for years apparently. Also Gsx1100f Bandit 1200 Whats a fair price for these engines with no history. Cheers

Seems too repeatable / exact to be fuel related as load will vary due to rpm / gearing which determines fuel flow? I'd still plump for something electrical - but don't know what as all the usual suspects have been replaced - assuming they've been sourced from 'normally running bikes' to eliminate a 'like for like' problem swap?

Theoretically, that bike should be able to do that in second gear. Is this happening in top gear or any gear? Maybe a fuel supply issue? Take the tank off, suck on the vaccum with a syringe and check flow. Does it redline in first? Does it feel like it has full power up until 90mph?

Thanks, exactly what I was looking for.

I use loctite 243 thread lock, only because its free from work

Does anyone have the image from the factory manual that shows the cam alignment and the number of links between the marks for a bandit? I've only got 750 manuals and wanted to double check before swapping in new cams. Thanks Also, loctite on the cam gear bolts? Blue or Red?

Hi all. Not had chance to do a video. But here's an update. After lots of messing around. The bike now has different carbs ( with out the tps ), A different loom and a different CDI. There was no fittings for a speed sensor before and still isn't. The clocks have been changed The bike still wouldn't pass 86mph. The latest thing was to pinch a gear selector switch of another engine. there was a difference. It was pulling strong untill he hit a slight bump and it dropped back down to 86. He got just over 90mph So the only thing that's made any difference was adding the gear selector switch

Thanks guys, I have the washer but they are the originals, I thought they were metal

I use dowty washers (seals) never had an issue yet.