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Ahhhh I see. I've not had my clutch apart but that would make sense. Mine creeps but not all the time. It felt better when I 1st rode it with the smaller slave cylinder but soon went to being just about working again. Same with neutral being a twat Clutch apart soon then! Thanks

I just wasn't sure how important the lenght of the guide is. As in, how far it protrudes into the airstream. Because this probably has some impact on how much it can cool the valve. But if they are doing it for racing it can't be that bad. And yeah, the "racing spec" is a bit of a problem, having to ream/hone the guides. I'd be happy with using OEM stuff, but like I said, that seems hard to find in my neck of the woods. I'll just have to see how far I'll get. I didn't realize the GS and Z motors were that similar.

Thanks, never knew that, but it explains why I never read about it being done.

Because we have some nice mountain ranges pretty close to me and it's more fun to ride the bike wide open out there than it is in town. Yeah, I just need to do a 1216 with it.

As APE is an aftermarket seller of 'mainly' race orientated pieces it would be reasonable to assume any 'similar' part may need honing for fit and maybe adjustment in the valve seal area - but saying that if the outer and inner bores suit the head & valves I can't imagine any reason not to use (usual caveats apply) The GS was just a slightly less complicated variation of the Zed motor after all!

Also briefly appeared as "MKMOTORSPORT". Lasted 3 days, 18 posts and banned.

Do you know what this switch is native to @Arttu? I'm struggling to find one

Anyone know if the shift drum on an 1100W rotates the same direction as a B12?

Hi folks, I noticed that some online shops / manufacturers use the same part number for valve guides for GS1000 and Z900 (for example APE VK900). Additionally, in said APE kit, all the guides look the same (no difference between intake and exhaust). This leads me to assume two things: I can use Z1/900/1000 valve guides (OEM or aftermarket) in my GS1000. I can use OEM intake guides on the exhaust side, even though they have a slightly different shape. Is this correct? My reason for asking: Exhaust valve guides seem to be hard to get in Germany. But I still have two for the intake side and there is a shop that sells guides for the Z1.

Is there oil coming out of the breather? If yes, you need a catch can, If not, you don't

Please DO NOT blindly bore to spec's - manufacturer or internet! Give the pistons to the person / company doing the boring so they can bore and hone each bore to suit each piston - have them numbered to match corresponding bore so they don't get mixed up. A nominal 0.002 - 0.003" clearance is usual. If the boring outfit is good, all their measuring tools will be temp controlled to ensure accuracy, they will also want to know the application as racing & HP intensive uses need slacker size, whilst a quiet & long life road engine is better with tighter end of tolerances.

If that's the case why do you want more 'top end' - just where you can't use it? Bar Room HP is great - but Stoplight to Stoplight accel bottom end is FAR more useful! A 1216 kit will benefit all through the range.

Hi Upshot you can't swap them because 750 have different valve spacing , I will have mine reground at some point .

I need to have a stock 1100 slabby block bored to accept an 1109 wiseco kit. Does anyone have the info as to the bore size tolerances for the kit? Wiseco website worse than useless. It's a (very slightly) used kit so I do not have the original instruction sheet that would have been supplied by Wiseco. Cheers in advance .

The smaller one is off the gsxr 1127 and MK1 b12 The larger one is off the gsxr 1052. The problem with my clutch I've found is it's hard to put into neutral when the bike is running but it doesn't slip or drag. Found the church basket and hub have groves in them where the plates rub.

A plastic bottle is fine as long as you remember to empty it occasionally - its embarrassing when it pukes over LOL! Oil gets blown out due to pressurisation, so just connecting the hose back to the crankcase won't work! Connecting the hose to a can with drain back can work as long as the can is separately vented itself. Sometimes the blown out oil is milky due to condensation and some peeps don't like putting it back into the engine although if its removed it will return naturally anyway unless you run the crankcases under vacuum constantly!

Thanks Dave - that helps and looks logical. The shock movement is tiny though - maybe 20-25mm? - seems less than optimal but if it works, it works. The orientation of the levers and links on yours is similar but completely different to the OP question picture - in that one, the link / arm relationship certainly isn't parallel and more divergent hence my question!

This is the only way I could get the shock geometry correct on mine without massive bodgery. The link needs to be in the same plane as the arm otherwise you'll end up with a falling rate (as explained to me by someone cleverer than me and this works so I believe him) Obviously loads of slop in this but Ive since made a proper linkage on this geometry and it works really well. Just nice little vid to demonstrate how this linkage type works for those who cant wrap their head around it

do i need a catch can if im running 36 mm flatslides with no airbox, i had the rocker cover breather tube siting just above the drive chain but it was driping too much oil, is it ok just feed into a plastic bottle,? or if a catch can were do you put tge output tube to

1986 1100 slabby. 36mm flatslides. do they need a catch can? i had the top breather hose running to a filter but it soon cloged up then had it above the chain but was getting oil driping, i have it runing into a plastic bottle now with a filter on top, but thinking maby a catch can would be better? but do you have the outlet running to the carbs? and how?

Yeah they differ. I thought about a clutch basket mod for my 1100f but first tried a 1100r slave wich improved enough

Ahoy, Hive mind needed, my clutch has, for as long as I can remember been piss weak. It would always creep. I've changed m/C's, Hoses, slave cylinders twice over. Recently bought a Hel m/c and much the same. I have a collection of slave cylinders off various things and never measured one until I was googling Oberon slave cylinders and found an old post on here by @wraithhaving the same problem and he said about different sizes. I went and had a rumage and measured a few. The one on the bike was 38mm and found a 35mm so I've done a swap (actually twice, 1st 35mm one leaked) to see if that helps. It was too late to take the bike out and see if it helps. Anyhoo, does anyone know if the size difference is gsxr Vs gsxf or something else?

Here's the thread where "Chris12" was banned, he got 10 posts in before the ban hammer hit him on the head.

Looks like a similar set up to a Mille

Got better picture of it straight on from the side view @Ragerover Looks very similar to the R1 setup to me though.