Chadillac Posted September 19, 2018 Posted September 19, 2018 Chad here- Planning on upgrading the '03 bandit to a 1216cc turbo for street use. Want to run mainly 93 pump gas maybe a splash of 110 or 112 here and there with if possible?! Looking to start at 6-8 psi and up from there till I hit 200 hp give or take. I believe I'm 950ft above sea level here in Wisconsin... Parts I have Gen 1 Busa pistons & rods - used New Rings / 81mm cometic head gasket MTC stage 2 lock-up clutch td04hl-16t OR td05-16g ( both in cart- can't decide!) I've finally found a local place that is capable of boring and honing the cylinders to specs so here we go. Going to try to document the process as much as possible as well for your entertainment. Couple of questions before I pull the trigger... Can anyone that has used gen 1 busa pistons AND rods in a bandit confirm their CR and with what thickness base spacer was used? OR maybe can someone with busa pistons on stock rods confirm CR? Also, what compression ratio should I try to achieve given my plans? This might determine whether I keep my stock rods and use the busa pistons OR use busa rods & pistons with a spacer.... Any information, thoughts, questions or concerns appreciated Quote
Gixer1460 Posted September 19, 2018 Posted September 19, 2018 (edited) Throw the Bus rods away - they'll pop the pistons out of the top of the block - could use a spacer but you'll need to add a link into the cam chain so its not like a bowstring!. Std rods gives about 9:1 CR I think from memory and i'd use the TD04 Edited September 19, 2018 by Gixer1460 Quote
clivegto Posted September 19, 2018 Posted September 19, 2018 I use gen 1 busa rods & pistons with 2mm spacer plate, comp was just less than 8 to 1 no problem with a tight cam chain on mk1 b12 engine. TDO4L turbo making 260hp at 16psi. 1 Quote
Chadillac Posted September 19, 2018 Author Posted September 19, 2018 Thanks for the quick responses guys I appreciate it. Also makes sense about the chain- So next question. what would be better compression ratio for street use w/pump gas? 8 to 1 with spacer plate and busa rods or 9 to 1 with stock rods and busa pistons? Going to be running td04 max 1bar pressure Quote
Gixer1460 Posted September 19, 2018 Posted September 19, 2018 (edited) IMO i'd prefer the higher CR as it aid's off boost running and can tolerate 1 bar of boost - problem is boost is addictive and you push it a little bit more and it goes tits up (potentially). Correct fueling helps as overly rich mixtures don't necessarily help cooling as much as people think - easy way of burning up turbine blades, dumping excess fuel into the turbine. Edited September 19, 2018 by Gixer1460 Quote
Duckndive Posted September 19, 2018 Posted September 19, 2018 Mine stock rods and gen 1 bus slugs stock head.... T3 Draw thru 245 BHP at 10 PSI Quote
Chadillac Posted September 19, 2018 Author Posted September 19, 2018 Thank you that helps a lot. Still worth dry building to confirm or is this calculator the way to go?Also, am I correct in thinking that it is less work to keep the stock connecting rods anyways and just swap the piston itself on the pin so I don’t have to tear into the bottom end and buy more gaskets etc? Quote
Askamaskinservice Posted September 19, 2018 Posted September 19, 2018 How much beatin can it take unopened, ie how much boost. If you don't max out torque below 5000 ish. Quote
clivegto Posted September 19, 2018 Posted September 19, 2018 Build it properly, do a dry build to do your own calculations as engines can vary a bit, that way hopfuly you only have to build it ones. Quote
Chadillac Posted September 19, 2018 Author Posted September 19, 2018 (edited) 34 minutes ago, Askamaskinservice said: How much beatin can it take unopened, ie how much boost. If you don't max out torque below 5000 ish. I’ve heard some people say 7 I’ve heard others say didn’t blow up till 15psi but that was stock pistons not forged. 8.5 -1 seems like a good number for 200hp sub 1 bar boost for now. Like I said it’s for street use not planning on improving 1/4 mile times chasing the boost Edited September 19, 2018 by Chadillac Quote
Duckndive Posted September 19, 2018 Posted September 19, 2018 1 hour ago, Askamaskinservice said: How much beatin can it take unopened, ie how much boost. If you don't max out torque below 5000 ish. Mines had loads of stick ...this was with race-gas thou Quote
Askamaskinservice Posted September 19, 2018 Posted September 19, 2018 Is the needle stuck on 1.7bar/25psi!!!! Quote
clivegto Posted September 19, 2018 Posted September 19, 2018 My one is a street bike with a wheel base of 1440mm at the moment. Have done 2650 miles with this set up this summer so far. Quote
Askamaskinservice Posted September 19, 2018 Posted September 19, 2018 Unopened, "std" B12 engine. Not lowerd compression? Quote
clivegto Posted September 19, 2018 Posted September 19, 2018 26 minutes ago, Askamaskinservice said: Unopened, "std" B12 engine. Not lowerd compression? As has already been mentioned no more than 7psi. First time I ran a turbo set up on my b12 (not the scratcher) it destroyed the pistons between the the piston rings. 1 Quote
Duckndive Posted September 19, 2018 Posted September 19, 2018 1 hour ago, Askamaskinservice said: Is the needle stuck on 1.7bar/25psi!!!! No I have a resettable one way valve to the gauge 1 Quote
Chadillac Posted September 19, 2018 Author Posted September 19, 2018 My needles on my cluster got stuck too the other day! Still missing some gauges though! Haha Quote
Chadillac Posted September 19, 2018 Author Posted September 19, 2018 4 hours ago, clivegto said: My one is a street bike with a wheel base of 1440mm at the moment. Have done 2650 miles with this set up this summer so far. And really like that setup! Quote
Chadillac Posted October 2, 2018 Author Posted October 2, 2018 Finally had some time to look at the pistons I got. They are out of a 1999 hayabusa. I was under the impression I needed to buy busa pistons because they are forged? The pistons I got seem to be cast... Can these be run with a turbo or did I screw up and buy the wrong pistons? Quote
Chadillac Posted October 3, 2018 Author Posted October 3, 2018 Little better pic after pulling the pin. Rods seem forged- (stamped 24F) but still not positive on the pistons. Still worth swapping? Quote
jameskat Posted October 3, 2018 Posted October 3, 2018 (edited) Looks like stock forged busa pistons to me, cast pistons usually have a lot more surface detail in them. Edited October 9, 2018 by jameskat Quote
Gixer1460 Posted October 3, 2018 Posted October 3, 2018 However they are made - they will go to around 300hp in a Bus before the ring lands let go! Most std GSXR / Blandit stock pistons can break NA whilst blowing into the airbox LOL! 1 Quote
MeanBean49 Posted October 3, 2018 Posted October 3, 2018 (edited) Yeah stock pistons suck, crushed ring lands with a hint of real boost. Ive got a question regarding busa rods, i measured everything up ages ago out of interest as I was advised to use a 2mm spacer plate. I measured a busa rod against a bandit on, the distance from the bottom of the small end to the top of the big end was only 1mm different iirc, i figured that if I used a 1mm spacer that would make the c/r exactly the same as using stock b12 rods. And that c/r is about spot on. So why do people recomend the 2mm spacer plate? Doesnt make sense to me Edited October 3, 2018 by MeanBean49 Quote
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