CockneyRick Posted July 17, 2018 Posted July 17, 2018 So to save money, was gonna slot the timing plate. However, having removed cover i saw this. Not seen one like it, so is the principal the same & slot the 3 screws 5mm & turn clockwise by that amount? Or would a change/upgrade be a good idea? It's a GSX1100F engine Quote
Simbec1863 Posted July 17, 2018 Posted July 17, 2018 (edited) From memory the principle is the same, make a reference mark so you can reset back to datum just in case then slot the 3 screws and advance by your requirements for example 3-5 degrees. Edited July 17, 2018 by Simbec1863 Quote
CockneyRick Posted July 17, 2018 Author Posted July 17, 2018 Ta, was just looking at it thinking it may not turn too well. Not as round as the ones i remember! Quote
Gixer1460 Posted July 17, 2018 Posted July 17, 2018 1 hour ago, CockneyRick said: Ta, was just looking at it thinking it may not turn too well. Not as round as the ones i remember! Its a full circle with 3 chunks cut out of it - it will turn fine! 1 Quote
EvilElsie Posted July 26, 2018 Posted July 26, 2018 Hello, Clockwise or Anticlockwise...?? My guess is Clockwise but the nice diagram above shows otherwise..... Cheers, Dave Quote
Oilyspanner Posted July 26, 2018 Posted July 26, 2018 If you want to advance the ignition timing you need to turn the plate anti - clockwise, then the pick-up/sensor meets the crank earlier - so is advanced compared to crank position. It's all relative to crank position. If you move the mounting plate clockwise the crank will rotate further before meeting the pick-up, so ignition will be retarded (compared to crank position). It's easy to think that moving clockwise is moving it forward, so advancing timing - but if you just consider it's all relative to crank position it all makes sense. 1 Quote
CockneyRick Posted July 27, 2018 Author Posted July 27, 2018 Here's mine done by @Rsvfletchseeing as he has tidier & steadier hands than me! Quote
CockneyRick Posted July 27, 2018 Author Posted July 27, 2018 If i'd have done it with my shakes, it would have been S shaped Quote
CockneyRick Posted July 27, 2018 Author Posted July 27, 2018 Not tried em yet, been in Salford all day Quote
CockneyRick Posted July 28, 2018 Author Posted July 28, 2018 (edited) Two things i've learned in slotting this shape timing plate is: 1. The top left hole has to be cut away, it doesn't fit the obvious turn on the slot of the other 2 points. Once cut away, a 5mm washer holds it in place. 2. Next, the Op sender sits at the bottom of the plate, & once turned/advanced, the sender will not fit anymore. So you have to file a channel in it at the turn point. Pics explain it better, first is std. Second is cut out & filed channel, third is fitted Edited July 28, 2018 by CockneyRick Quote
Gixer1460 Posted July 28, 2018 Posted July 28, 2018 Funny never thought about that but had a look at a Dyna 2000 plate and the bottom cut doesn't look any different - maybe a tweak on the OP switch would have done the trick? Quote
CockneyRick Posted July 28, 2018 Author Posted July 28, 2018 That actually looks shorter at the bottom, so no need to cut away. Look at LH bottom cover hole on yours & mne to where the plate is Not much you can do to the OP switch other that file off all the castle points! Quote
EvilElsie Posted July 28, 2018 Posted July 28, 2018 On 7/26/2018 at 9:34 PM, Oilyspanner said: If you want to advance the ignition timing you need to turn the plate anti - clockwise, then the pick-up/sensor meets the crank earlier - so is advanced compared to crank position. It's all relative to crank position. If you move the mounting plate clockwise the crank will rotate further before meeting the pick-up, so ignition will be retarded (compared to crank position). It's easy to think that moving clockwise is moving it forward, so advancing timing - but if you just consider it's all relative to crank position it all makes sense. Of course - I really should have thought about it before I posted . Thank you for the explanation though.... I do have a new question that might not be as stooped - off to start a new thread..... Quote
Gixer1460 Posted July 29, 2018 Posted July 29, 2018 21 hours ago, CockneyRick said: That actually looks shorter at the bottom, so no need to cut away. Look at LH bottom cover hole on yours & mine to where the plate is Not much you can do to the OP switch other that file off all the castle points! I thought that at first - but its the black cable sleeve that makes it look thin....... look either side, it's a wide as yours is. Quote
CockneyRick Posted July 29, 2018 Author Posted July 29, 2018 (edited) Width wise yes the same, but i still think depth, it's shorter at the bottom. But unless you plonked one on the other, you can't tell Sold my Dyna2000 a while back, but still got the T piece! Edited July 29, 2018 by CockneyRick Quote
jonny1bump Posted July 29, 2018 Posted July 29, 2018 Did some testing years and years ago and found 1 degree extra advance was all what was needed but again no 2 engines are the same depends on whole set up. That's beauty of full programmable ignitions if you have a rich spot you can advance ignition just at that spot to try increase burn at that point. 1 Quote
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