Blue Posted May 24, 2018 Posted May 24, 2018 (edited) Slabby, 2 wires from alternator, 1 orange going to switch & fuse, 1 red going to switch, circuit breaker, fuse & headlight relay. When ignition is on I’m getting 12.6v on both, when off I’m getting 12.6 on the red & 9.6v on the orange! And no volts at all on the brown wire! Any ideas? Thanks Edited May 24, 2018 by Blue Quote
colinworth79 Posted May 25, 2018 Posted May 25, 2018 I'm a little confused at the moment? Yes you will have 12+ on the red wire all the time . Orange should only have 12when ignition is on . I'm assuming you have tested this at the alternator plug ( alternator unplugged) ? Which brown wire are you referring to ? And what's the problem with the bike ? Quote
Guest YoshiJohnny Posted May 25, 2018 Posted May 25, 2018 The orange wire is the switched live for the alternator...there is a fix for the voltage drop on one of the vault pages I will find in a minute.. The alternator doesnt work until there is a 12v feed to it... if you check it when it's running tou should get around 14.2v at the red wire and slightly less at the orange without the fix Quote
Guest YoshiJohnny Posted May 25, 2018 Posted May 25, 2018 https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/tag/charging-system Quote
Blue Posted May 25, 2018 Author Posted May 25, 2018 I was having other problems & when I checked I found out my multi meter is defective, I think I’ll go with the relay though 1 Quote
CockneyRick Posted May 25, 2018 Posted May 25, 2018 I have an issue here too. I have a very basic loom for the drag bike. No ign, lights, etc. Cosmo did the loom but nothing to connect up the 2 Alt wires. I asked him & he said, Red to Batt+ & leave orange off. Having read this, if the orange is the trigger for it to charge, how is mine gonna work? Quote
Gixer1460 Posted May 26, 2018 Posted May 26, 2018 It won't! Put a switch in line on the orange and tag it back to battery. Just remember to switch it off or it'll flatten the Bat.! 1 Quote
vizman Posted May 26, 2018 Posted May 26, 2018 10 hours ago, CockneyRick said: how is mine gonna work? like he said above, it won't. from the alternator the red feeds back to the battery, the orange feeds back to the red via a kill/on-off switch, the orange should also supply the power feed to whatever you are using ( coils/starter switch/instruments/gauges/oil warning etc) via correct rated fuse and wire. Quote
MeanBean49 Posted May 26, 2018 Posted May 26, 2018 I have simple race looms on mine, I put red direct to battery and wire the orange into the coil live which is switched on by the kill switch. 1 Quote
CockneyRick Posted May 28, 2018 Posted May 28, 2018 had a word with Cosmo & he said his runs with just the Red>Batt+ connected. However he did suggest putting Orange to batt+ too if it don't charge. This is all subjecctive at the mo, cos the engine is dry & not ready to turn over just yet. Saw this post & made me wonder? (Sorry for hijack @Blue) Quote
vizman Posted May 28, 2018 Posted May 28, 2018 it will run without the alternator wired in, or with just the red......but only for so long as it'd be 'total loss' 1 Quote
Gixer1460 Posted May 28, 2018 Posted May 28, 2018 Basic alternator theory - a spinning coil of wire or a spinning magnet will produce a voltage whilst within a magnetic field or due to a magnetic field . The red is connected to a spinning or a static coil and is the output but unlike the old GSX's that had a permanent magnet glued inside its rotor, the GSXR relies on an electromagnet to produce a magnetic field hence they are called the 'field coils' - which needs powering, this source is usually switched and in this case is the Orange. 1 Quote
Guest YoshiJohnny Posted May 28, 2018 Posted May 28, 2018 On 26/05/2018 at 1:14 PM, MeanBean49 said: I have simple race looms on mine, I put red direct to battery and wire the orange into the coil live which is switched on by the kill switch. me too..... Quote
CockneyRick Posted May 29, 2018 Posted May 29, 2018 So really i need a switched feed from whatever on this loom to the Orange wire, or i get nothing back. Also i would assume a perm live feed to the Orange is not a good idea? Quote
Gixer1460 Posted May 29, 2018 Posted May 29, 2018 25 minutes ago, CockneyRick said: So really i need a switched feed from whatever on this loom to the Orange wire, or i get nothing back. Also i would assume a perm live feed to the Orange is not a good idea? Hmmm Bat Flattery and over heated alternator .......................so no! 1 Quote
SFC Posted May 29, 2018 Posted May 29, 2018 ive had problems with same thing except i am using m unit , ive been told red to battery + (ive used m unit + ) orange to ignition output on m unit which fires the coils ....not tried yet but will let you know Quote
CockneyRick Posted May 29, 2018 Posted May 29, 2018 Don't have an ignition, mine is live with killswitch lanyard in place & live feed when removed to relay to kill power to everything else. Quote
MeanBean49 Posted May 29, 2018 Posted May 29, 2018 6 minutes ago, CockneyRick said: Don't have an ignition, mine is live with killswitch lanyard in place & live feed when removed to relay to kill power to everything else. You just need the orange to the load output side of your relay. Should work fine 1 Quote
Nick Posted May 29, 2018 Posted May 29, 2018 Can anyone post pics of how they've installed their relay to drop the voltage? Read the vault guide, but electrickery is not my thing and dont wanna do a bodge job!! Thanks... Quote
MeanBean49 Posted May 29, 2018 Posted May 29, 2018 36 minutes ago, Nick said: Can anyone post pics of how they've installed their relay to drop the voltage? Read the vault guide, but electrickery is not my thing and dont wanna do a bodge job!! Thanks... Realy doesnt change voltage. Its just so all the current for all the electrics isnt flowing through one little switch. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.