Nick

Dual outlet taps are the same across all 1100 slingshots, I believe. The rebuild kits can be a bit hit and miss, and the main seal in the body needs a slide hammer to get it out without mullering the casting.

What is the denso jr9b equivalent? Looks like x27etr? I too have had issues with ngk quality - even when buying them from supposedly reputable places...

This. Try new plugs - not iridium ones, either. Getting jetting right seems to kill plugs in my experience...

I took the rubbers off and sprayed them up with silicone spray and left them in ziploc bags for a few days, which seemed to help make them more pliable. Used a smear or rubber grease on them and a hair dryer to get them back in. It's a bloody awful job though, it really is...

Well, I changed the air filter ring for the less restrictive one and put the needle clip back to the 3rd one down. Bike would only run on choke at first with the pilot screws at 2.5 turns, so put them at 3 and a third to get a decent idle without it 'hanging.' Took the bike out for a ride and the roll on is pretty good in top from 3k, so I guess the kit was always designed for the filter without the 'plugging' ring in. I may drop the clips one on the needle to see if it pulls any harder, but it's really quite good as is... For future reference for anyone else who needs settings: 1127M with K&N filter in airbox and less restrictive ring (chamfer to rear of bike) DJ stage one kit - DJ126 main jet, needle clip 3rd from top, pilot screw at 3 1/3 turns out. Slides drilled as per instructions... Thanks for all the help guys...

Thanks. Strangely enough, the brand new DJ stage 1 kit didn't come with replacement tubes and there is no mention in the instructions of them - the DJ jets just thread into the mikuni tubes. Odd, because I was always led to believe that DJ used their own emulsion tubes, but clearly they have changed. I believe it's too rich on the needle, as lowering (as in putting the clip in the higher slots) it helps with the 3.5 - 5k stumble and bogging. Trouble is, lowering it also kills the 6k + acceleration. When you had a K&N, were you using the less restrictive airbox ring? It ticks over ok and revs cleanly from idle, but when riding it, the issue becomes apparent. I've also tried raising the needle but that was fouling plugs, which leads me to think the MJ is possibly too large in the first place... The kit didnt come with pilots and i've left the stockers in there.

Float bowl gaskets are brand new viton, and the float heights are standard. It has the more restrictive ring in with the 'chamfered' part facing out towards the back of the bike. Using their settings, the bike stumbles around 3 - 4k when rolling on, so my guess is that it's too rich, though moving the clip up the needle to lower it and lean it out means that it doesn't pull well above 5k. I always thought these kits were supposed to be somewhere near rideable as a drop in solution? I'm gonna swap over the velocity ring to the less restrictive one and see what happens...

The kit comes with DJ122 and DJ126 mains, and states to use the 126's for an aftermarket exhaust. I know the sizes aren't apparently comparable with Mikunis... Yep, carbs were balanced up...

Hiya, Got the above set up with standard BST40 carbs, which have been ultrasonically cleaned and rebuilt with new emulsion tubes, o rings and float valves. I've ended up putting a dynojet stage 1 kit in the carbs as it was always quite lean with the pipe and filter, but can't getting it running right with their recommended settings. The airbox has a k&n panel filter in it, but has the thicker, more restrictive velocity ring in it at the moment... I'm getting pissed off pulling the carbs on and off, and appreciate it needs dyno testing but it's not even rideable to get there as is. Does anyone have a similar set up on this bike and who what their settings are? Are people running the less restrictive ring in the airbox with these stage 1 kits...? Thanks

Thanks for this - pretty much exactly what I did. Whipped them off again and swapped back to 125 MJ and treated them to some new brass mixture screws. I've started off at 2 turns out, but noticed the revs would hang as they dropped from 'blipping it.' As I've turned the screws out to richen it (no mean feat with the carbs still on the bike!), the hanging is less and less, so I reckon it was just leanness rather than an air leak? Or am I way off the mark with this theory? Currently sat at about 2 and 5/8ths out... Carb removal gets much quicker the more you do it, too.... !

So, progress has been slow, but I got the carbs back on after a successful bench test and it ran quite nicely on the stand in the garage, ticking over well and revving cleanly. Bike is a stock 1127M with BST40's, and the airbox with a k&n panel and smallest aperture, and it has a full akra 4-1 with no baffle. I opted for 140 mains, mixture screws at 2.5 turns out, standard pilots and needle position as standard (albeit offset to maintain the same protrusion as before as I am using Jonny1bump's spacers). However, bike is now running crap again, dropping down onto 2 - 3 cylinders (2 seems to be the problem child). I've looked at the ngk iridium plugs which are quite black and wet, indicating richness, and have checked that we have decent fat sparks and have trimmed the end off the HT leads, so I'm satisfied its a fuelling issue. I've tried buggering about with the mixture screws (back to 2 turns as leaner - i think this is right as in turn out to richen? - but when I blip it, the engine revs then wants to die like it's running out of fuel) with no real joy. So, when it ran beatifully, this was with a remote tank. My 1100 tank is pristine and I flushed it and ran a magnet through it, but I wonder if there's a load of crap in the carbs again? I didnt mess with the float levels when rebuilding them (as in bending the float 'tang'). My assumption is that the main jet wont affect idle as that is controlled by the pilot, so I'm not really sure where to go from here other than to pull the feckin things off and clean them again? Fuel tap is one I rebuilt years ago as the one on the tank was wrecked from being stood and the seals had swollen. Any ideas and thoughts gratefully received. I know it'll need to go on a dyno to get properly set up, but it'd be nice to have it rideable to get there! Thanks again...

So, the clutch on my 1100M appears stuck and i'm pretty sure it isn't the hydraulics as i've bled em through. It seems like the plates are stuck together from being laid up and probably have dried up? Bike stalls when trying to go into gear, and I've tried various ham fisted attempts at running it on a stand and using the brakes etc with no success. The plan is to strip the clutch and inspect the plates, and soak em up in oil then reinstall if they are serviceable. I know there is a big 50mm socket on the pressure plate and I can lay my hands on an impact gun, so the question is, can I just rattle the 50mm nut off with the bike in neutral and holding onto the hub with a gloved hand? Or do I need to get the special holder tool and use that as well as the impact? Sorry for the dumb question, I just don't fancy chewing up my hand or the transmission through poor technique!

Bench tested as advised. Glad I did, as the fuel t piece spigot seals pissed fuel out first go, though on inspection I'd pinched them putting the carbs back together. Now rigged it up again, and so far, so good. Got the rubbers off with a PH3 JIS bit tapped into em and turned with a socket - thanks again. Looked like they had threadlock on em - is this normal?!

Thanks Joseph/Dezza, that's great. At £106 quid for a new set (1310#-41C00), it was a no brainer and I've ordered a set...

So, looks like I've missed the 'summer' this year, but finally managed to get a few hours to myself and get them back together after running em through the newly bought ultrasonic cleaner (5l, but big enough to fit two bodies in at once minus float bowls). I've replaced all the o rings with a Litetek kit, as well as new fuel t piece rubbers and new float valves and seats from wemoto. They went back together a lot quicker than they came apart, that's for sure, though the advice on here has been invaluable - thank you - and hopefully the next set I have to do will be much quicker. As an aside, for anyone after emulsion tubes for these 40mms, they are Mikuni 'P2s' and also used on the 1100 waterboilers which made getting hold of them easier (Allen's sorted me out). So, I'm currently in the process of rigging up an auxillary tank to bench test them for leaks, and weighing up whether or not to fight the inlet rubber screws off to change the 4 o rings which are likely 30 years old. After taking off the oil returns on the back of the valve cover to get at them, the cast mountings make me nervous about being too brutal with em. Last thing I wanna do is snap the 'ears' off and I wonder if its more aggro than its worth...? I'd love to take the advice and just buy a new set of rubbers, but £240 for an OEM set is a bit more than I can justify at the moment. Other considerations are inline fuel filters, as I don't fancy crudding up my carbs with tank jank. Can anyone recommend any specific inline filters that will offer some filtration and won't starve it of fuel? I'm on a rebuilt standard twin outlet tap... Thanks!

Yeah, think I have learned the hard way with cheap sh*te easy outs...! So, progress has ground to a halt at the moment as I'm still waiting on a new set of Mikuni emulsion tubes from allens (suzuki oem were 50 quid a tube!). Float needles and seats from wemoto turned up and are 'otto-moto' branded, whom I've never heard of before. I'll be sure to bench test em before they go back on the bike and report back...

Well, progress is slow due to a lack of time, but despite soaking the pilot screws and heating them, they were all stuck solid. Managed to get three out by being careful and gently working them back and forth, but in true sod's law fashion, had to resort to drilling into the last one after the slot chewed off. After the easy out failed, I ended up gingerly tapping a t16 torx bit into the hole in the screw and winding it out... lol! If anyone else struggles with seized pilot screws, I can thoroughly recommend this method!

Still waiting on the pilot screws amd jets - I'm surprised no one manufactures a proper screwdriver for em. I have filed one down on advice from here, but the bastard things are still stuck soild so I'll keep soaking them for a bit longer and try a bit of gentle heat. Do people bother swapping out the throttle shaft seals? The Litetek kit I have coming has replacements included, but removing the staked screws looks a right faff and it's not really a road I wanna go down if I can help it. I do wonder if soaking them in an ultrasonic bath/thinners will wreck the current ones in there though?

Thanks guys, the advice has been great. I cannot believe what a sh*te state these are in, and it's a cautionary tale for anyone who leaves their bikes stood with modern fuel in the carbs. I'm kicking myself that I have another set to do after this... Still soaking up the pilot/main/needle jets in plusgas at the moment, but have managed to get everything else undone with JIS screwdrivers. I'll put some allen socket heads back on (M5x16, it would seem) when rebuilding them...

Thank you Dezza, got them off this morning with the hairdryer, gentle rocking and silicone spray. Pics below show the green slime in the float bowls from the stale fuel (wtf do they put in it?!) So, given the state of them (30 years worth of road shite) and the fact that I have two sets to do, I was gonna look into investing into an ultrasonic cleaner. Can anyone recommend anything that will suit home use and take a full bank of 4 carbs, or is the correct way to split them from the rail? I am currently soaking everything in plusgas in anticipation of stripping them. Thanks again

Carbs are minging, as you can see... (Spaceman wrap is velcro heat shield for the loom, btw...)

Hiya, Been a while, but I ended up having to put both my bikes into storage where I couldnt physically get to them for around a year. Now I have them back again, they both run like crap (GSXR11M and 11N) on the standard 40mm Mikuni's. I've started to tackle the M first, and it starts but runs on three and wont rev, so I'm guessing blocked pilot jets and gummed up everything. The plan is to have the carbs off and clean/new orings/tubes/floats etc... So, having had the carbs off the N before, I know it's a bit of a faff, but I have got as far as the separating the airbox rubbers off and trying to remove them from the inlet stubs on the M. They ain't budging, however, and the 30 year old rubbers don't wanna let go. I've liberally applied silicon spray, and my next step was to rob the mrs' hairdryer and warm them up a bit and go from there. What is the accepted best way of getting the carbs off? I really dont wanna be too brutal with it (ratchet straps?!!), but I'm beginning to wonder whether i'm into a new set of inlet rubbers cos these ones are harder than Lenny McLean... Also, is it worth throwing some new inlet orings at it? The dome heads holding the inlets on look like they will round off as soon as I look them, so I wasn't gonna bother unless the inlets have to come off. Any ideas/wisdom greatfully received... Thanks, Nick

Can anyone post pics of how they've installed their relay to drop the voltage? Read the vault guide, but electrickery is not my thing and dont wanna do a bodge job!! Thanks...

https://rover.Eblag.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.Eblag.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F150840139125 Basically, yeah...

Oily, you are a total star - thank you! I have two sets of carbs to do, so this has saved me a small fortune which I may spend elsewhere on some nickel plated emulsion tubes!!