davecara Posted January 28, 2018 Posted January 28, 2018 Would I be right in thinking the a head is pretty much scrap without them unless I go down the road of line boring etc? Quote
Gixer1460 Posted January 28, 2018 Posted January 28, 2018 You could sub in another set but it is a REAL big risk to take IMO. If you do, then use 'plastigauge' on each journal in 2 or 3 positions to check clearances. Quote
davecara Posted January 28, 2018 Author Posted January 28, 2018 For the price of a new head it not worth the risk then. Itll do for mocking up Quote
clivegto Posted January 29, 2018 Posted January 29, 2018 As said plastiguage them if to tight you can use grinding past to rub them in. Take the follwers out use a boot lase round the cam to spin it. A bloke from big CC told me how to do this. I have done this & it worked. 3 Quote
davecara Posted January 29, 2018 Author Posted January 29, 2018 4 hours ago, clivegto said: As said plastiguage them if to tight you can use grinding past to rub them in. Take the follwers out use a boot lase round the cam to spin it. A bloke from big CC told me how to do this. I have done this & it worked. It’s a very bare head I’ve picked up cheap, for what it’ll cost for cars, valves and rockers etc I’ll be better getting a complete head I reckon. Advice duly noted for future reference though This ‘1216 for cheap’ idea is going to go VERY wrong I can feel it 1 Quote
Swiss Toni Posted January 29, 2018 Posted January 29, 2018 If you're in the market for another head, why stuck to B12? Go for a Dot head? Quote
fatblokeonbandit Posted January 29, 2018 Posted January 29, 2018 I was given a dot head once with 2 missing, I also had one with smashed valves and combustion chamber, so had nothing to loose, I used the caps from the other head and the cam when torqued down was very tight, I did as in clives comment, took the followers out and used the finest grinding paste I could find and span them until the cams spun easily. checked with plastiguage and it was fine, it was fitted to a b12 years ago and it went like fek.and as far as I know still going. I guess I was just lucky Quote
MeanBean49 Posted January 29, 2018 Posted January 29, 2018 11 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said: I was given a dot head once with 2 missing, I also had one with smashed valves and combustion chamber, so had nothing to loose, I used the caps from the other head and the cam when torqued down was very tight, I did as in clives comment, took the followers out and used the finest grinding paste I could find and span them until the cams spun easily. checked with plastiguage and it was fine, it was fitted to a b12 years ago and it went like fek.and as far as I know still going. I guess I was just lucky Ive done the same a few times. Never had a problem. Issue is if they are tight and you dont correct it Quote
davecara Posted January 29, 2018 Author Posted January 29, 2018 27 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said: If you're in the market for another head, why stuck to B12? Go for a Dot head? I’ll be strapping a turbo to it in time so a dot would be a waste really, plus I’ve got a B12 crank so i’ll need cams to match. If you’re giving one away though i’ll Take it off your hands! Quote
Swiss Toni Posted January 29, 2018 Posted January 29, 2018 I bet you would! people are hanging on to them, at the minute. Dot head and cams, FBOAB's 1340 pistons. Interesting combo! 1 Quote
dupersunc Posted January 29, 2018 Posted January 29, 2018 2 hours ago, davecara said: I’ll be strapping a turbo to it in time so a dot would be a waste really, plus I’ve got a B12 crank so i’ll need cams to match. If you’re giving one away though i’ll Take it off your hands! You can just swap the bandit and dot head cam sprockets over if you go down the dot head route. 2 Quote
clivegto Posted January 29, 2018 Posted January 29, 2018 @davecaramight have a useable 1127 head no cams you would need the b12 cam cover if using b12 bottom end. Quote
davecara Posted January 29, 2018 Author Posted January 29, 2018 49 minutes ago, clivegto said: @davecaramight have a useable 1127 head no cams you would need the b12 cam cover if using b12 bottom end. Ah ok, didn’t know the cam covers were different! I’ve got B12 cases/crank/rods 1127 barrels, 1216 pistons and that’s my lot so far so nothing set in stone! Quote
clivegto Posted January 29, 2018 Posted January 29, 2018 9 minutes ago, davecara said: Ah ok, didn’t know the cam covers were different! I’ve got B12 cases/crank/rods 1127 barrels, 1216 pistons and that’s my lot so far so nothing set in stone! Or just the bit out f the b12 cam cover that the cam chain runs aginst. Drill 2 holes in a 1127 cam cover job sorted. 1 Quote
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