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here is a bit of information on how to deristict the gsxr 400,as they have used m-max boxes as well to fool the cdi thinking its still in a low gear when in 5th and 6th.-But they are easily overcome by soldering a 1.5k Ohm 1/2 watt resistor in line with the green/yellow wire to ground which is what you could probably could do to yours to get it revving in 5th and 6th again. The resistor is a mod that owners use to lose the speed restriction from the poxy gear selector switch that Suzuki put on the bike to make it Jap legal. (put the 1.5k resistor inline with the green/yellow wire from the cdi to ground )

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1 hour ago, gazza49 said:

here is a bit of information on how to deristict the gsxr 400,as they have used m-max boxes as well to fool the cdi thinking its still in a low gear when in 5th and 6th.-But they are easily overcome by soldering a 1.5k Ohm 1/2 watt resistor in line with the green/yellow wire to ground which is what you could probably could do to yours to get it revving in 5th and 6th again. The resistor is a mod that owners use to lose the speed restriction from the poxy gear selector switch that Suzuki put on the bike to make it Jap legal. (put the 1.5k resistor inline with the green/yellow wire from the cdi to ground )

I'm hoping to go over tomorrow to have a look at it and see about soldering a resistor in.

As far as know though, it doesn't have the gear selector switch. Just neutral .  No speed sensor on the drive sprocket just a cable speedometer. He's tried a few speedos and it didn't make any difference . 

But thanks for the info. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all. Not had chance to do a video.

But here's an update.

After lots of messing around. The bike now has different carbs ( with out the tps ),

A different loom and a different CDI. 

There was no fittings for a speed sensor before and still isn't.

The clocks have been changed

The bike still wouldn't pass 86mph.

The latest thing was to pinch a  gear selector switch of another engine.

 there was a difference.  It was pulling strong untill he hit a slight  bump and it dropped back down to 86. He got just over 90mph

 

So the only thing that's made any difference was adding the gear selector switch

 

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Theoretically, that bike should be able to do that in second gear.

Is this happening in top gear or any gear?

Maybe a fuel supply issue? Take the tank off, suck on the vaccum with a syringe and check flow.

Does it redline in first?

Does it feel like it has full power up until 90mph?

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Seems too repeatable / exact to be fuel related as load will vary due to rpm / gearing which determines fuel flow? I'd still plump for something electrical - but don't know what as all the usual suspects have been replaced - assuming they've been sourced from 'normally running bikes' to eliminate a 'like for like' problem swap?

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6 hours ago, george 1100 said:

Theoretically, that bike should be able to do that in second gear.

Is this happening in top gear or any gear?

Maybe a fuel supply issue? Take the tank off, suck on the vaccum with a syringe and check flow.

Does it redline in first?

Does it feel like it has full power up until 90mph?

Fuel flow is good, I did check the breather pipe and ran it with the cap undone .  Straight up to redline in first. It was pulling hard until it hit the bump then went back to only doing 86 mph.  Doesn't matter what gear your in, it will pull strong until 86mph. 

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6 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

Seems too repeatable / exact to be fuel related as load will vary due to rpm / gearing which determines fuel flow? I'd still plump for something electrical - but don't know what as all the usual suspects have been replaced - assuming they've been sourced from 'normally running bikes' to eliminate a 'like for like' problem swap?

I totally agree.

We have tried different carbs, different clocks and ECUs . The ECU that was on it had rounded plugs with seals.

  It now has a different loom with the older looking ECU and squared plugs with no seals. That didn't make a difference until we managed to get a gear selector switch. Fitted the switch and took it for a run. Power felt the same even after 86mph. It did feel like it was going to hold back at all. Sadly the bump obviously dislodged something and it dropped back to 86mph.

So I'm thinking the gear selector is making the difference.  

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4 hours ago, george 1100 said:

Unplug it. Engine should still run. Can't see how the gear selector would affect anything. You've basically eliminated everything except fuel supply ie petcock operation. 

 

Engine ran before the selector was fitted but only up to 86mph.  I don't think he has a spare tank to swap fuel supply. But in first gear it goes up to redline with out any starvation 

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3 minutes ago, BillyR said:

As far as i remember the one i worked on had the modified neutral switch i to make the bike think it never got past 3rd gear, sounds  like yours is the same.

I haven't seen the switch on or off the bike so I don't understand how it functions. Is it based on resistance or something. Or  is there a part that turns 

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7 hours ago, lowriderade said:

 Is it based on resistance or something. Or  is there a part that turns 

Its both LOL! The body face has brass pads that a pin in the shift drum rotates over - usually 5 or 6 big pads + 1 small one for neutral. Depending on the sophistication and signal output to the CDI/ECU there will be different resistance values on the output wire dependant on what gear the shift drum pin is touching. Obviously the switch has to have the correct pattern to match the rotation of the shift drum - I wasn't aware of any difference until recently (if a difference actually exists?) and of course the resistance values have to match what the ignition is looking for or not, if you are trying to defeat it!

If a bump changed the behaviour of the ignition I'd guess the sh. drum pin was barely making contact on an un-restricted portion and the bump moved it into 'restricted mode' position ? ? ?

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14 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

Its both LOL! The body face has brass pads that a pin in the shift drum rotates over - usually 5 or 6 big pads + 1 small one for neutral. Depending on the sophistication and signal output to the CDI/ECU there will be different resistance values on the output wire dependant on what gear the shift drum pin is touching. Obviously the switch has to have the correct pattern to match the rotation of the shift drum - I wasn't aware of any difference until recently (if a difference actually exists?) and of course the resistance values have to match what the ignition is looking for or not, if you are trying to defeat it!

If a bump changed the behaviour of the ignition I'd guess the sh. drum pin was barely making contact on an un-restricted portion and the bump moved it into 'restricted mode' position ? ? ?

Cheers for that it's a big help. I haven't had chance to get round yet and see how he's getting on because im working on my oil cooled chop (with very little electrics ).

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