ETs and dragy times

[rerb]

For anyone curious - bike (99 b12) and me with gear weigh in at 685lbs (cat scale) and dynod 260/149. These runs it made less, estimating 215-230 hp with the muffler on and 17 psi. Afr ~10.5 (little too fat for my liking, but it's a failsafe incase the meth stops working) and .75 deg of timing pulled per psi. Stock swingarm.

Anyways - 60 to 130 mph:

Best so far: 5.67

Worst: 5.99 (5 runs)

Problem is wheelies in 2nd and 3rd, aswell as 3rd topping out at exactly 126 mph gps forcing me to hit another shift to clear 130

1/8: 7.34 @104 best, 7.6 @ 101 worst. Surprisingly consistent, both dragy and actual track times have me within a few tenths of that.

0-60: 

Best: 3.70

Worst: 4.01

Hard to get the launch right, purely operator error! N/a I ran 2.9, 3.1, and 3.0 consecutively. More controllable without boost in 1st lol.

1/4 - haven't really done much, rolled to a 13.20 @ 54 mph after letting off at the 1/8th. ET calculators don't work well on boosted bikes on stock swingarms, but we think it'll be right around the 10 mark based off roll races I've done against similar cars. 

 

Anyone have some times to share? Gonna focus on improving these areas over the summer. Have a dyno day tomorrow to try and throw some timing back in to liven her up a little.

[Arttu]

I have personally tried my bike on quarter mile only few times. But here is one "amateur rider on street bike" reference Air cooled turbo GSX, on full road trim so pretty high, slightly under 300hp max with the setup used on the track. Non-prepped air field track.

The main problem was wheelying on 1st and 2nd gears so I was able to get on full throttle only at end of 2nd gear and onwards. That shows up on 60ft and 1/8 (200m) times.

You really mean your 60ft times were between 3.7-4.0s? Considering that the 1/8 times are pretty good. I think you need to get the 60ft under 2s before you can make much conclusions about further incrementals.

Edit: Ah, re-read your post and you probably meant 0-60 mph time, not 60ft? Then it makes more sense

Edited June 12, 2023 by Arttu

[Duckndive]

Little Pauls Bandit  STOCK Motor & CV Carbs  ..long leg & slick 

Put a 75 Shot of gas up its ar5e in from the get go ...8.85 at 150mph 

 

 

 

 

[rerb]

6 hours ago, Arttu said:

I have personally tried my bike on quarter mile only few times. But here is one "amateur rider on street bike" reference Air cooled turbo GSX, on full road trim so pretty high, slightly under 300hp max with the setup used on the track. Non-prepped air field track.

The main problem was wheelying on 1st and 2nd gears so I was able to get on full throttle only at end of 2nd gear and onwards. That shows up on 60ft and 1/8 (200m) times.

You really mean your 60ft times were between 3.7-4.0s? Considering that the 1/8 times are pretty good. I think you need to get the 60ft under 2s before you can make much conclusions about further incrementals.

Edit: Ah, re-read your post and you probably meant 0-60 mph time, not 60ft? Then it makes more sense

Nice! And yeah, my 60fts are 2+ which is def hurting times across the board. Gonna tune the ignitech adjustable limiter for a better launch. I was looking into boost by gear kits but it would be easier to mess with that during an efi conversion. 

[rerb]

1 hour ago, Duckndive said:

Little Pauls Bandit  STOCK Motor & CV Carbs  ..long leg & slick 

Put a 75 Shot of gas up its ar5e in from the get go ...8.85 at 150mph 

 

 

 

 

Wow, that thing is fast! 

[Tony Nitrous]

Ran a few bikes up the strip. Nothing amazing as they were mostly streetbikes that needed to fill other roles, always ride in, ride home. Ran a heap of 10.3’s but seemed to find my limit around there.

Recently bought another bike that’s going to be very much aimed at the strip. It’s currently on a bit of a diet and getting a few mods.

Sadly this Suzuki is a couple of years too new to be on here.

I will still follow this thread with interest though. 

 

EDIT:  No great numbers I can brag about, but this was an old slip with my daily commuter / tourer that might just scrape in as a Watercooled Old Skool…. 

 

EDIT-2:  That Bandit is waaaaay cool.  I have one sat doing nothing here, this thread is giving me expensive ideas. 

Edited June 13, 2023 by Tony Nitrous

[Arttu]

16 hours ago, rerb said:

Nice! And yeah, my 60fts are 2+ which is def hurting times across the board. Gonna tune the ignitech adjustable limiter for a better launch. I was looking into boost by gear kits but it would be easier to mess with that during an efi conversion. 

I think a launch limiter works best with slider style clutch where you can just throw the lever. But it could help with normal hand clutch too. If you can build some boost on limiter you can probably launch at lower rpm and then you don't need to feed in the clutch that long. I think I will try that next time. Whenever that happens...

I have boost by gear control and that helps a lot. Only problem is that the wastegate doesn't allow low enough boost to get on full throttle on 1st and 2nd.

[rerb]

22 hours ago, Arttu said:

I think a launch limiter works best with slider style clutch where you can just throw the lever. But it could help with normal hand clutch too. If you can build some boost on limiter you can probably launch at lower rpm and then you don't need to feed in the clutch that long. I think I will try that next time. Whenever that happens...

I have boost by gear control and that helps a lot. Only problem is that the wastegate doesn't allow low enough boost to get on full throttle on 1st and 2nd.

My current launch is floating the revs to about 4500, then holding abt 3/4 throttle while modulating the clutch. Very hard to get right, I either ride the clutch too much or instantly wheelie. The limiter would be nice so bounce it off 4k while holding 1/2 or so throttle, get the turbo spinning juuust a little then dump it and go. But yeah, nowhere near WOT until 3rd 

[Arttu]

Yes, that could work. But the problem is that you still need to ride the clutch. And then it might be tricky to adjust switching point of the limiter input switch. If it is too early the rpms will shoot up while you are still feeding in the clutch. Too late and it will keep bouncing on the limiter when you should already have full power. But like said, probably worth of trying.

[Gixer1460]

Multi purpose bikes taken racing will always be compromised in one area or another! Generally with straightline racing, the launch is essential for ET and is a combination of clutch and chassis (the bit often forgotten). You need consistancy of how the clutch reacts, how you engage it, at what rpm and what the chassis does when engaged. Unless you go to expense of multi stage or slider clutches paired with auto boxes and sophisticated launch & ignition controls that can hold rpm to set point within 50rpm whilst WOT just on bite point, everything else is viariable and thus less consistant. 

Feathering / feeding in a clutch is a slow way and kills 60ft and short track times - as a basic set-up, you can tune the clutch stack height in combination with the clutch springs and lock-up weights. This will allow you to dial in a rpm and 'throw the lever' - no feathering whatsoever, you let the clutch slip itself into full lock up. Its a huge subject and not something that can be solved via the net - only testing, testing, testing works LOL! Obviously this type of launch could result in wheelies - without chassis mods! A chassis that absorbs the hit in a controlled way and then extends down track is essential . . . . . . or fit bars and smash the launch 

[rerb]

54 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Multi purpose bikes taken racing will always be compromised in one area or another! Generally with straightline racing, the launch is essential for ET and is a combination of clutch and chassis (the bit often forgotten). You need consistancy of how the clutch reacts, how you engage it, at what rpm and what the chassis does when engaged. Unless you go to expense of multi stage or slider clutches paired with auto boxes and sophisticated launch & ignition controls that can hold rpm to set point within 50rpm whilst WOT just on bite point, everything else is viariable and thus less consistant. 

Feathering / feeding in a clutch is a slow way and kills 60ft and short track times - as a basic set-up, you can tune the clutch stack height in combination with the clutch springs and lock-up weights. This will allow you to dial in a rpm and 'throw the lever' - no feathering whatsoever, you let the clutch slip itself into full lock up. Its a huge subject and not something that can be solved via the net - only testing, testing, testing works LOL! Obviously this type of launch could result in wheelies - without chassis mods! A chassis that absorbs the hit in a controlled way and then extends down track is essential . . . . . . or fit bars and smash the launch 

Excellent info. I've been meaning to look into lockups as my current method is 4 HD clutch springs and that gets a bit annoying in traffic. I'm already talking with a shop about an extended swingarm, and looking at rear shock options. Then it's efi in order to run e85 and some Carillo rods. Got schooled by a stretched nitrous zx10r and want to do something about it 

[Bow]

Take a look on Google for ( the bandit naughty list )

will give you a good idea as to what the UK bandits run on the 1/4 mile,  N/A, Turbo, and nitrous.

1/8th mile is not particularly suited to turbo street bikes,  as it’s all lost on the launch,  unless you have a ridiculously long swingarm.

my personal best 1/8th mile is 6.89, on a N/A 1157 motor,  not used my turbo on the 1/8th,  as it was built for 1/4mile.