Help my oil burner is burning oil !!!

[smudge]

Hi guys, so been up on the road on my recently done slabside 1100 fighter , the bike was put together from bits and pieces so the plan was to get some miles on it and test what's working and what's not , every thing seemed to be going okay apart from a few tweaks here and there , really wanted to test the engine as I was planning on getting it bored out over the winter,  it's an original 1052 engine with dyna200 ignition, stage3 jets and pod filters,  I noticed there is  smoke coming from the engine breather with that smell of burning oil when it gets hot and it seems to be hot all the time! It seems to be going through a lot of oil ( over a litter in 800 miles) but it doesn't seem to be burning it in the cylinders ,  the engine runs and sounds okay but not as fast as  I thought it should be so I did a compression test on it and it wasn't great ( around 100psi across the board if the cheep Chinese compression tester was reading right before it fell to pieces!) Was planning on boring it out anyway so wasn't to worried about that but figured I'd do an oil pressure test just to be sure , when the engine is warming up it reeds at about the minimum 40ish psi but when it gets hot it drops to between 15 to 20psi , I thought this seemed a bit low so I dropped the sump out and checked the oil pressure regulator and relief valve and they seem fine, repeated the test with fresh oil and got the same results, would really appreciate any advice here as this level of spannering is pretty new to me! Are these oil pressure readings on the low side?  Replace oil pump? Combined with the low compression test is this indicating a worn/ knackered Engine? As usual any and all advice really appreciated 

 

[Gixer1460]

Unfortunately yeah - its knackered / well past its best!

Compressions should be around 150 - 200psi with minimum about 140psi! with approx 25psi variation cyl - cyl.

Oil pressure (hot - 60 deg C) should be between 45 and 85psi, cold it would be nearer the 85 than 45, so looks like the pump, isn't!

Its getting rid of the oil somewhere and at a guess, its bypassing the rings! Regarding being 'hot', have you checked ignition timing?

[wraith]

Bike looks nice.

You could put a b12 lump in there for the rest of summer and start sorting the gsxr motor. The biggest thing is these are now a old motor and if, as it seems the rings/bores are ready for a re-bore and maybe the oil pump is u.s what else is fucked?

You would be wise getting the crank looked at if you're going big bore or you may end up like I did and putting a Conrod through the crankcase (twice ) not a great fan of the 1052 motors, the 1127 and 1157 seem to be much stronger. But that's just my opinion.

[smudge]

Thanks for the reply,  yea this is what I was thinking , I knew the compression wasn't great and figured it would need at the least new piston rings , oil pressure was my big concern, hard to tell without a temperature gauge when the engine is at 60 degrees, but it seems way hotter than that, even when I'm out and about if i stop moving for more than 5 minutes smoke starts coming the engine breather. As far as ignition timing I fitted a dyna 2000 ignition system and was super careful when fitting it .

[smudge]

7 minutes ago, wraith said:

Bike looks nice.

You could put a b12 lump in there for the rest of summer and start sorting the gsxr motor. The biggest thing is these are now a old motor and if, as it seems the rings/bores are ready for a re-bore and maybe the oil pump is u.s what else is fucked?

You would be wise getting the crank looked at if you're going big bore or you may end up like I did and putting a Conrod through the crankcase (twice ) not a great fan of the 1052 motors, the 1127 and 1157 seem to be much stronger. But that's just my opinion.

Thanks, yea I was thinking the same thing about the b12 motor , possibly picking up a low mileage bandit 12 in good order, swap the motor and sell the rest, my previous bike was a b12 I loved the motor but wasn't keen on the rest of it,  I'm not sure if I have the skills/experience  for a bottom end rebuild, thanks for the reply, appreciated 

[smudge]

Hi lads, okay I'm gonna bite the bullet and pick up a low mileage bandit 12 and swap the motors , can I take it as gospel that all oil cooled bandit 12 engines are a straight swap into a slabby frame? Any years I should look for or avoid? Any and all advice appreciated.

[DAZ]

Should Bolt straight in you may have to swap sump and pick up to clear exhaust and maybe the breather on the cam cover  some are lower than others, mk1 b12 has better cams than mk2,   gsx1100f is better than b12 of any year but you could always swap your gsxr cams in but you would need the cam sprockets from a b12 as the b12 is a hyvo type multi link chain 

Edited April 8, 2023 by DAZ
Bleeding predictive text

[Dezza]

Slabby back bottom (ohh err missus) mounts are a smaller diameter so you'll have to open out the frame mounts or use a sleeve in the engine mount. If you use the slabby sump and take off then you can still use your slabby oil cooler hoses because the connections are different to the B12. The ignition is also different. The easiest way round this is to install the slabby rotor and pick-up to the B12 engine, assuming you are using a slabby ignition already of course.

[smudge]

Thanks guys, that's really good to know , much appreciated.

[Joseph]

loose valve clearance can affect compression readings.

stem seals can be culprits for oil burning.

may not need all that much to sort it out but if you have an engine spare you'd do well to pop it in while you go over/under/through the one you've got in the bike

[imago]

From experience if compression is down due to wear (rather than damage or bodging) of the bores and rings then everything else will be in the same condition. Valve guides, stem seals, crank mains and big ends, oil pump, cams etc. So a full rebuild should be expected and given the age of the engine any parts which are available will be expensive.

So unless there's a specific reason you want to stick with the 1052 the money would be better used building a Bandit or Power Screen motor to your spec. If you do that it'd be worth paring out the 1052 as anything not shagged would sell and it's worth more in bits than as a whole worn lump.

[DAZ]

6 hours ago, Dezza said:

Slabby back bottom (ohh err missus) mounts are a smaller diameter so you'll have to open out the frame mounts or use a sleeve in the engine mount. 

Cheers @Dezza didn't know that about 1052 thought only 750/600 had the smaller rear mount still everyday is an old skool day