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New owner. Some questions.


beardo

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Ok. I'd go for a full system, airbox mod/jetting, "wheelie wire" if you've got one and suspension. Maybe do some head work if you're having the engine apart anyway. This should give you a bike that does everything reasonably well, enough poke that you can have fun and just about enough chassis to keep you out the bushes*.

* But not guaranteed.

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A complete ex. system is worthwhile just for the weight it saves - std. bindit is double skinned back to the collector & link pipe so weighs a ton and when it rots, it does so internally and then rattles! That'll help with the suspension which is built down to a cost not up to a quality - HyperPro springs up front, seals and an oil change, + a decent shock at the rear will improve usability no end.

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Ironically enough, the original owner included an extra brand new (I presume take-off) stock muffler and mid-pipe he bought from the dealer he got the bike from when new. I asked him why he wasted the money on it. He said in case the original one fell apart. The thing weighs a ton! Falling apart?? LOL

As it is, all this information seems like a good starting point. 

I appreciate the shared knowledge.

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Oh, by the way, might as well mention this, suspension and brake upgrades are on the 'not to do' list. Reason? If I, by some miracle, come across a roller, slab or sling, then the motor will go in that. Making suspension/brakes a moot point. 

Which brings me to another silly question. Will an 1100 exhaust work on a Bandit? Not concerned about making mounts. 

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The 1127 motor (slingshot) yes, the 1052 (slabside) yes but they are a bit shorter so the exhaust maybe a bit nearer the sump.

Also some of the slingshot had 4-2 exhaust instead of 4-1 which will have a different sump. All the oil cooled sumps swap you just need to get the oil pickup for that sump as well but if you did change sumps some have the oil cooler pipes at the front and some on the bottom so you may need oil lines.

Just a bit more info for the grey matter xD

On here there is always a yes but answer xD

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So, I confirmed, for my bike anyhow, no wheelie wire. Wasn't really expecting to see one.

Anyhow, looking into the DOT heads, a question popped up in my mind. Would I need the matching cam caps from that head? I seem to recall something about never mixing up caps, but that little thread of information in my brain is from many, many years ago. So who knows. Anything else to look out for concerning the DOT heads?

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Yes get one with the matching caps.

You can use your carbs and carb rubbers (engine side) like said before the DOT head will raise your carbs up slightly, so I don't know if you can use the standard airbox but I'd fit k&n pod filters and put a Dyna kit in the carbs.

You will need to replace the head gasket (but you already know that ;)) there are 4 o rings on the two oil tubes that run from the base of the cylinders up to the head front of the engine, large S shaped tubes, can be seen.

I've got a ported DOT head with gsxr750 38mm carbs on, and it really does pick its feet up.

 

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38 minutes ago, wraith said:

 there are 4 o rings on the two oil tubes that run from the base of the cylinders up to the head front of the engine, large S shaped tubes

Cyl. Head oil drainage tubes - DON'T use anything other than Suzuki parts for these o-rings . . . . . many have tried and ended up tearing the engine down again due to leaks!

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Yeah, at that point, I figured pods would be the way to go anyhow. The airbox is small, the opening is even smaller. Ya gotta think that's all due to getting the old motors to pass emissions (air/noise) regulations. 

Yep, when I did the valves, all new Suzuki gaskets went in. No fucking around there.

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I run a ported dot head on a 1052 motor with B12 cabs in one of my bikes and as I tell everyone it goes like a screaming banchee. 

You could skim your standard head which would give a power increase as well as getting it ported and flowed which would have the same effect. 

Edited by clivegto
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9 hours ago, beardo said:

So, I confirmed, for my bike anyhow, no wheelie wire. Wasn't really expecting to see one.

Anyhow, looking into the DOT heads, a question popped up in my mind. Would I need the matching cam caps from that head? I seem to recall something about never mixing up caps, but that little thread of information in my brain is from many, many years ago. So who knows. Anything else to look out for concerning the DOT heads?

They tend to crack between the spark plug and valve seat

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10 hours ago, george 1100 said:

They tend to crack between the spark plug and valve seat

They do, same as most 4V engines will - the GS1100 / 1150's were notorious for it and they still run fine so don't dismiss a head just on that reason. Although its a good bargaining point if buying :pimp:

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8 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

They do, same as most 4V engines will - the GS1100 / 1150's were notorious for it and they still run fine so don't dismiss a head just on that reason. Although its a good bargaining point if buying :pimp:

Can run fine but I wouldn't risk in in a big dollar engine. Valve seats can fall out

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