Blower1 Posted July 13, 2020 Posted July 13, 2020 On 7/7/2020 at 9:31 PM, GV1390 said: Bump. Some solid info in here thus far, thanks guys! Question - I see a lot of you are running 4 TB's.....anyone have any info on running a single TB? Setup will a GSXR1100W with a AMR500 blower on MicroSquirt V3. I had one TB on my supercharged EFE. First there was 65mm TB before supercharger, It was really difficult to ride at low speeds and throttle response was really poor thanks to about 4 litre volume between TB and engine. Idle was impossible to get steady. It oscillates between 1000 - 3000 rpm. Next step was blow through 44mm TB with mechanical blow off valve. It was a lot better, but still the throttle reponse was a little slow. With 44mm TB there was 222 rw HP. After 80% throttle opening fuel map remains nearly same. I think with one 44mm TB is possible to get about 250 rw HP. Now there are "normal" set up with 4x32mm TB:s and 65mm mechanical blow off valve. Throttle response is nice and linear. Quote
redwater Posted August 5, 2020 Posted August 5, 2020 On 2/9/2019 at 10:27 PM, no class said: Just want to add my findings concerning the 01'-03' gsxr 600 throttle bodies onto a oil cooled gsxr / b12. ( not the 2007 gsxr 600 tb's above)..... the closest configuration is 13110 / 13110 / 13140 / 13140 intakes ( I used the 1100 L ). Using the above mentioned method or with 1/4" thick flap wheel . Setting depths is important . The throttle bodies will fit this configuration but since there is a slight difference in center to ceter spacing ....it will require some muscle to pop them in . Rubbers from b12 gen2 32F0 are dimensions 80-85-80. Is it chance to little stretch to fit it to gsxr600 K1 throttle body (80-80-80) ? Quote
Gixer1460 Posted August 5, 2020 Posted August 5, 2020 No hope IMO! Do it properly - space the gap between 2 and 3, the 5mm required. Quote
redwater Posted August 5, 2020 Posted August 5, 2020 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said: No hope IMO! Do it properly - space the gap between 2 and 3, the 5mm required. Ok. What with injection rail ? Cut it in half, and connect with fuel line ? Edited August 5, 2020 by redwater Quote
Gixer1460 Posted August 5, 2020 Posted August 5, 2020 17 minutes ago, redwater said: Ok. What with injection rail ? Cut it in half, and connect with fuel line ? If that works for you - i'd bore either side and add an o ringed tube between - adds a little flexibility and width adjustment. Quote
redwater Posted August 5, 2020 Posted August 5, 2020 5 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said: If that works for you - i'd bore either side and add an o ringed tube between - adds a little flexibility and width adjustment. Thanks for tips. Quote
redwater Posted August 6, 2020 Posted August 6, 2020 One more question. Is external fuel pump ( from R1 '98) enough for non turbo b12 ? I can't cut my fuel tank. Quote
Gixer1460 Posted August 6, 2020 Posted August 6, 2020 Has an R1 more power than a Bindit ? - Yes . . . . therefore pump will be ok. But was the R1 '98 EFI - I thought they were still on carbs? If so, then no as you need a HP pump! Quote
redwater Posted August 6, 2020 Posted August 6, 2020 Hmm You right, R1 is on EFI from 2002 r. So I will be looking for external pump from some car. Is working pressure 3-4 bar be good ? Quote
Gixer1460 Posted August 6, 2020 Posted August 6, 2020 2.5 - 3.0 bar is usual. It's the flow you have to match - look for car with at least 25 - 50% more power output than the bike will make to be safe. Quote
gmansyz Posted August 6, 2020 Posted August 6, 2020 Riddle this please, would you be able to use the outside cylinders. #1 & #4, on cyls two and three? To get the spacing right? Also, why so small tb's? 32mm. 42mm would be a better bet. Or at least 38's. G Quote
redwater Posted August 6, 2020 Posted August 6, 2020 (edited) 21 minutes ago, gmansyz said: Riddle this please, would you be able to use the outside cylinders. #1 & #4, on cyls two and three? To get the spacing right? Also, why so small tb's? 32mm. 42mm would be a better bet. Or at least 38's. G 32F0 is only rubbers name, They are about 41mm diameter. This rubbers are different then others oilcoolers, they are different distances between carbs inlets (cyl1- 80mm -cyl2- 85mm -cyl3- 80mm -cyl4) I will give a 5mm spacer sleeves between cyl 2 & 3. TB is gsxr600 K1/2/3. Edited August 6, 2020 by redwater Quote
gmansyz Posted August 6, 2020 Posted August 6, 2020 (edited) Ooh. Okay. But why not use older GSXR 1100 intake manifolds? 13110/20/30/40 17DO? These take the 40mm CV Mikuni's. Just my thought. G Edited August 12, 2020 by gmansyz insuficient info. Quote
redwater Posted August 14, 2020 Posted August 14, 2020 On 8/6/2020 at 11:07 PM, gmansyz said: Ooh. Okay. But why not use older GSXR 1100 intake manifolds? 13110/20/30/40 17DO? These take the 40mm CV Mikuni's. Just my thought. G On 13110 ... it is still 77-93-77 . Middle we can correct by distance between TB, but 77 mm don't. Now its fit perfect. Do You think it is big difference between 38mm and 40mm mainfolds with non turbo engine ? Quote
no class Posted August 14, 2020 Posted August 14, 2020 On 8/5/2020 at 3:34 PM, redwater said: Rubbers from b12 gen2 32F0 are dimensions 80-85-80. Is it chance to little stretch to fit it to gsxr600 K1 throttle body (80-80-80) ? I did not use b12 intakes....I used gsxr 1100 but in different configuration ..... 13110,13110-13140,13140..... the gap is less than 5mm . it’s not a 100% pop in but does not require tb respacing or fuel rail mod ..... I had the parts laying around and gave it a go ......and as you can see they fit on ..... no tie downs or ratchet binders needed . if it helps anyone out .... good.... but yes.... it’s not the “propper” method of course Quote
gmansyz Posted August 14, 2020 Posted August 14, 2020 If it works for you, why not? No vacuum leaks? Did you make some spacer rings to fit the air filters? G Quote
redwater Posted September 4, 2020 Posted September 4, 2020 (edited) TB fits perfect, second run without sensors: Edited September 5, 2020 by redwater update 1 Quote
redwater Posted September 10, 2020 Posted September 10, 2020 Arrived trigger. Weld or not to weld, that is the question ? Quote
mrutah12 Posted September 11, 2020 Posted September 11, 2020 8 hours ago, redwater said: Arrived trigger. Weld or not to weld, that is the question ? were did you get your trigger just curious Quote
redwater Posted September 11, 2020 Posted September 11, 2020 From trigger-wheels.com . I have two parts: original trigger, and trigger from T-W , and both maching on lathe machine by me. But material is not normal steel, thats why I asked for welding this parts. They looks like much more Fe then carbon. Quote
Gixer1460 Posted September 11, 2020 Posted September 11, 2020 I think they are steel, CI isn't the best stuff to laser cut! If worried about material - braze with silicon bronze? Lower heat and easy to do? Quote
redwater Posted September 11, 2020 Posted September 11, 2020 (edited) I will send email to T-W, is it the cast iron, or is it weldable matrial without any problems. I found on theis site , that preheat is required. Edited September 11, 2020 by redwater update information Quote
Gixer1460 Posted September 11, 2020 Posted September 11, 2020 If this is the one ? Thickness 5mm Pilot hole size 5mm Material Special magnetic stainless steel Teeth 36-1 Quote
redwater Posted September 11, 2020 Posted September 11, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said: If this is the one ? Thickness 5mm Pilot hole size 5mm Material Special magnetic stainless steel Teeth 36-1 Yes 2" . This is the same material or very similar like original suzuki trigger. Edited September 11, 2020 by redwater 1 Quote
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