Jump to content

turbo/EFI setup


Recommended Posts

GSX EFE 1986 , 1327cc , 11:1 comp. Fuel E85.

Megasquirt by Arttu.

Injectors: Bosch 700cc.

Coils: Dyna green ones (3,0 ohm).

One throttlebody from BMW 1100cc boxer engine.

Supercharger: Eaton M62 from Mercedes SLK.

 

 

Dyno: 

 

 

M62_dyno.JPG

Edited by Blower1
  • Like 3
Link to post
  • 7 months later...

What a tough learning curve this summer! I had no idea carbon fiber conducted electricity and had a meltdown of some of my electronics. Had to change the ecu and injectors. Went with a MaxxECU and made a big difference! I know an ecu doesn't make more hp but however more efficient this thing is now, it made the same power with 5 lbs less boost! Huge improvement. Didn't like having to spend the $$$ but am super happy with the modern tech over that old Accel from the 90's. Am able to add more sensors and datalog my runs. Had to have a machine shop make a billet steel trigger wheel for me that cost $250 usd. It's a 24t that we removed 3 teeth off of(started with 2 but wasn't enough resolution at high rpm). Used a single stock pickup off of a 91 Gsxr 1100. The Maxx street ecu is the best deal going right now I think.Will have some more pics soon.

If there's enough interest in the trigger wheel, the shop saved the program, maybe I will have a few more made. It is exact to stock dimensions and has the nut end too so you can still rotate the motor.

IMG_2063.JPG

IMG_2064.JPG

Link to post

A good result ! One comment re. the trigger wheel - the teeth are maybe too narrow. They should be a little narrower than the gaps - it's probably why you had to use 3 missing teeth. This is an off the shelf 36-1 that has been tested to 18k rpm, it's what I plan to use next time - machine out the centre and weld in a stock reduced centre.

Trigger Wheel 50mm.JPG

Link to post

I know these 50mm 36-1 wheels have been used succesfully with stock VR sensor on oil cooled engines. But on the other hand I know cases where it has been impossible to get them working properly. In my opinion the teeth and gaps get a bit too small in this case. So to be on safe side I would use lower teeth number.

24-2 seems to be a good choice for this combo. I have done few this kind wheels for oil cooled engines and they seem work fine. Essentially the same than that nice CNC machined wheel but with two part design, a laser cut wheel and machined shaft part welded together. Doesn't look that nice but cost is lower :)

I'm slightly surprised that the MaxxECU needed three removed teeth. What were the symptoms with 24-2?

Link to post

I also use 24-2 trigger. In my drag bike I still use 24-1 without problems. Reved it until 12000 rpm.

I agree with Arttu. But I had never problems at high rpm. I my case the starting procedure is shit when baterie is low and the crank turns slow and irregular. Starting is better with less teeth.

I also see no sence in making trigger with more than 24 teeth. Advance remains absolutly stabil at acceleration and dropping rev.

I´m still unsure about the size/length of the teeth. The last trigger I made are the teeth 1/3 of the gap. Similar to the one of mikeyd.

Link to post

I was having problems with a 36-1 trigger wheel so I bought 24-2 one from @Arttuand it has been spot on.

This is on my injected GSX1170 katana, starts easy with 0 degrees of advance on cranking, transition from cranking set at 500RPM.

No false tooth or sync errors either.

Link to post
On 1/4/2019 at 9:30 PM, mikeyd said:

I also get a lot of popping/gurgling on decel after a run like its still dumping a lot of fuel. Any ideas? Dyno guy didn't seem too concerned.

Popping on over run is pretty normal if over run fuel cut isn't enabled. It can be annoying but usually nothing to worry about.

Link to post
  • 1 month later...
On 3/19/2017 at 6:58 PM, no class said:

A drill press is used for honing the intake boots . Set the depth to the edge of the inner rib . Plunge in drum sander / or 1/4x1" flap wheel and with your free hand .... make circular motions until the desired dimension is achieved ….set depth for lower portion  and  repeat . Complete all 4 intakes . Second procedure is the inner rib .....  since the drum sander I used was 41 odd mm......a quick plunge was enough 

IMG_1675.JPG

IMG_1662.JPG

IMG_1672.JPG

Just want to add my findings concerning the 01'-03' gsxr 600 throttle bodies onto a oil cooled gsxr / b12. ( not the 2007 gsxr 600 tb's above)..... the closest configuration is 13110 / 13110 / 13140 / 13140  intakes ( I used the 1100 L ). Using the above mentioned method or with 1/4" thick flap wheel . Setting depths is important . The throttle bodies will fit this configuration but since there is a slight difference in center to ceter spacing ....it will require some muscle to pop them in .

IMG_3112.JPG

IMG_3111.JPG

IMG_3110.JPG

Edited by no class
  • Like 2
Link to post
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...
On 5/18/2018 at 4:10 PM, Blower1 said:

GSX EFE 1986 , 1327cc , 11:1 comp. Fuel E85.

Megasquirt by Arttu.

Injectors: Bosch 700cc.

Coils: Dyna green ones (3,0 ohm).

One throttlebody from BMW 1100cc boxer engine.

Supercharger: Eaton M62 from Mercedes SLK.

 

 

Dyno: 

 

 

M62_dyno.JPG

What is your oil temperatures?

  • Like 1
Link to post
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...

Bump.

Some solid info in here thus far, thanks guys!

Question - I see a lot of you are running 4 TB's.....anyone have any info on running a single TB? Setup will a GSXR1100W with a AMR500 blower on  MicroSquirt V3. 

Link to post

Maybe a 60mm tb will be fine.

What is the flow of the supercharger? You would do a draw thru type system as to blow thru would defeat the purpose somewhat and you woul need a blow off valve or bypass.

Just think of how big a 105mm tb is for a 427 cubic inch LS engine and a 60 or even a 70mm tb may not be too big.

G

Link to post
10 hours ago, GV1390 said:

Question - I see a lot of you are running 4 TB's.....anyone have any info on running a single TB? Setup will a GSXR1100W with a AMR500 blower on  MicroSquirt V3. 

I have never tried single TB personally but I have seen few that kind setups. So yes, it can work but usually throttle response is worse than with individual TB's. The response will depend on volume between the TB and engine so you may end up making less optimal compromises between plenum size and throttle response.

If you have the throttle between the charger and engine you won't need a huge TB. I would guess that something around 50-60mm should be fine for 200-300hp. On intake side of the charger the TB causes more restriction so you may need larger size there.

Based on my limited experience having the throttle on intake side of a supercharger is a bad idea on bikes. @Blower1can tell much more about different throttle solutions on a supercharged engine.

  • Like 1
Link to post

Yes, would not go single TB as well for street. My new drag bike has a single one with 80mm id. Throttle response does not matter there. It has big plenum as well.

Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...