Captain Chaos

I also read something similar somewhere. Oh hang on, I wrote that bit http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/2515

quote of the year

and are the new bearings the same size as the old ones?

oh yes ALL paint and coating has te be removed from any surfaces which get in contact with bearings/spacers.

brake disc side bearing has to go in first, till it bottoms out. Then the sprocket side bearing. With the bearings installed, you should be able to move the spacer around a bit. When tightened up the spacer should be tight. Easiest way to check if it's ok: try to turn the bearings in different directions at the same time, should be easy. Now try while applying axial force on the bearings (push them together), should be hard.

Bienvenue chez OSS You write English much better than some English people on here (not mentioning anyone in particular, but thinking of @wraithright now )

plug leads on cil. 3 and 4 mixed up? one coil fires 1+4, the other 2+3. And welcome on OSS. Please post pics of your 1100. We like pics.

making new mounts is no problem, important bit is that it fits over the frame and is not sitting too high. Thanks for the info

Does a Katana fuel tank fit on an 1100 EFE frame without big modification?

That explains the black/red wire, not brown/white. Distance sensor is connected to blue/red and black/red.

looking at the manual, Black/Red goes to a thing in the speedo, with the letters DS written near it. Could be something like Distance Sensor.

After disassembling my EFE clocks (crashing the bike) I saw what was left over from some wires going to what was left over from the odometer. I think these wires are for some indicator canceling thingy, turns off the indicators after a cretain distance. Not all markets had this.

Welcome on OSS. covers are not the same but can be swapped. Clutch pushrod will probably also need to be replaced.

must be something wrong with your engine. I have an 11F lump in my GSX-R750 and no problems with vibrations whatsoever.

looking at earlier posts maybe you mean 750J/K? I assumed you were talking about 750L/M since that's what the 38mm carbs came on originally.

confused.gif I have a Powerscreen (GSX1100F) lump in the 750L, F engine is the same size as B12 engine. With the 750L carb rubbers the 38mm carbs fit very nicely, can even fit the original airbox. A mate also had this combo (1100F engine in 750L) and later swapped for a B12 engine and had no problems, straight swap.

108 links http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/2162/

I once had B12 Mk1 carbs and wanted to put them on a Mk2 head + rubbers and they went in without too much trouble, but they didn't stay in. One fart/sneeze near the bike and they popped out. Tightening the clamps did not help much.

fuck it. Your bike, you ride it, do whatever is conveniant for you. And IMO powdercoated the right colour looks better than half-arsedly polished.

yes. Jetting is also dependant on climate, altitude, fuel quality...

worth mentioning that the 2nd generation GSX-F (the Baboon arse) has different carbs and rubbers than the first generation (the Teapot). Baboon arse is from 1998.

http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/category/modifications/wheel-swaps

I'm here Slingshot front wheel with bearing swap, Teapot discs, Nissin 4-pot calipers from a Slingshot. Almost a straight swap. Rear wheel needs a bit more work, I had a one-off caliper hanger made. Don't know if RF900 wheels are the same or not.

my 750L (Dutch market) has the large float bowl drain plugs.