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MeanBean49

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Posts posted by MeanBean49

  1. 4 minutes ago, slabsideB12Kent said:

    Is it just a case of fitting an ECU from a UK bike and bigger carbs then its a goer? 

    Use the bandit carbs, pickup and ecu. Wont make that much difference.

  2. 20 minutes ago, slabsideB12Kent said:

    Guy at work said he has a Japanese import GSXR 1100M for sale. The bikes in bits and im just after the engine, figure its a good way of increasing the power of my bike (its got a 1200 bandit lump). Does anyone know how to tell which country a bike came from? Ive asked for the engine and VIN numbers. My fear is its a French model or something like that which is restricted. 

    Motors are all the same spec iirc, its in ignition and carbs where restriction is

  3. If its only looks and handling isnt important run what you want.

    If handling is a concearn run the correct size tyres for the wheels.

    Like Dunc said earlier a 180/60 is basically a 190 made for 5.5 wheels.

    Imo a properly sized 180/120 looks way better than an ballooned out oversize tyre, its like looking at clown shoes

    • Like 2
  4. 2 hours ago, Reinhoud said:

    Thanks, top end is nice, but mid range is better.. 

     

    I think this head I have will make a difference then, the ports are bigger and the same diameter over the whole length, also the bend before the valves are way smoother..

    Easiest way to see what sort of difference is to run it N/A. You know exactly what the motor is doing without any assistance

  5. 14 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:

    25hp?! That's quiet a bit!! Have you riden your bike with and without a gasflowed head?

    Yeah,  used it for years with standard head and then a coupke of years more when I swapped to big valve ported head. Generally getting the same power top end plus better mid range and at lower boost.

    A worked cylinder head will add power pretty much irrelevant of what the turbo is doing. Its a good way of getting more power when your turbo is at or close to its limit.

    • Like 1
  6. 1 hour ago, Reinhoud said:

    Thanks guys!

     

    I did read once that it wouldn't make a difference with forced induction, but I didn't think the source was reliable..

    What you guys say about make it all as good as possible before boost, sounds logic.

     

    I'll spend some money then ;)

    I heard the same, I think the logic was why put a load of money into a head for 25bhp when an extra half a psi would do the same.

    To me I would rather make the extra power without putting extra load/stress on my motor

    • Like 2
  7. You can replace them and they are interchangeable accross all oil cooled motors as far as im aware.

    Not just an easy swap though. Because they are line bored you need to get the new ones to match, best to do with head off, and all the valves out. Dot them one at a time and you need to make sure the cam rotates nice and freely, if not you need to increase the clearence using very fine wet and dry wrapped round a rod just a bit smaller than cam diameter. Takes ages but can be done.

  8. 32 minutes ago, BanditPervert said:

    I’m positive it’s connected correctly, i cut a single coil off the spring and got down to 2 so could snip a bit more off and get to 1. I guess every little helps but didn’t think it would be an issue at 2 

    Shouldnt really be a problem at 2 which is why I would also be inclined to check everything else as well

  9. 36 minutes ago, BanditPervert said:

    Where does the 1 to 2 psi come from originally, is there a sweet spot to aim for or just low enough for the float tabs to handle?

    As low as you can get really.

    May be worth checking your fpr is plumbed up correctly, you can get it the wrong way round so you can set base pressure but when running it will let pressure go far too high amd flood carbs

  10. 6 hours ago, smudge said:

    Thanks, again all advice appreciated, do you know what type of stainless? A2-70 ? A4-80, 

    Either is fine, A4 is marine grade so is even more corrosion resistant. Depends how your going to use your bike, if its a winter hack and will be out in all weathers and covered in winter salt A4 might be worth the extra cost. If not go with A2

  11. 5 hours ago, Spazpecker said:

    Thanks meany, would that be 81 or 82mm as I've been offered both? As for the rod bolts I probably will for another £80. 

    81mm mate.

    Hard to tell in the pics but the bolts look suspect at best to me. Dont think ARP would stamp maxspeed badly onto there bolts. £80 is cheap for peace of mind

    • Like 1
  12. You can go to 1246 but liners are getting a bit thin, 1216 is the ideal capacity.

    There are quite a few people have been using these rods in turbo bikes and from what I can gather they are pretty good. Just worth buying some actually genuine ARP bolts.

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