MeanBean49
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Posts posted by MeanBean49
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If your manging to hold WOT in 1st or 2nd then somthing is seriously wrong with it.
Your not likely to see full boost in the lower gears due to the short time you spend in them due to them being shorter, and not being able to use full throttle due to wheelies.
Best bet get it on a dyno and see what its doing, not only can you check fueling you can have a good look/feel round for boost leaks etc whilst its running and under load as long as dyno operator is cool with that.
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11 hours ago, clivegto said:
@Dezzathey came from Harris.
Ace, had same issue with mine
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38 minutes ago, clivegto said:
been saving them for a long time Get some tywraps round them for a week, or be forever trying to stick them back down
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
Not arguing but that sounds long to me! It literally just has to unload the gears to allow the shift - I know its not the same but airshifters work with about a 45-60ms kill time and I didn't have much more with a foot activated QS! A long kill won't hurt anything, just makes for a jerky shift when it should be 'seamless'.
Just in my experience with ignitechs thats where the sweet spot is on oil boilers. Fully appreciate different brands or different motors/specs will be different.
At least its dead easy to mess with and find a sweet spot.
Having the capability to mess with the delay makes a huge difference, you can get them working really smoothly even at lower rpm's
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1 hour ago, Wee Man said:
Yeah, seemed OK......so far
I would ask Nick what settings he has for his quickshifter.
Iirc 100m/s is about the ideal kill time, your better off altering the the delay time instead
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3 hours ago, Wee Man said:
@Diebythereaperit seemed a bit clunky when set at 100ms.
You tried it under load?
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9 hours ago, rerb said:
Was barely running, all those bog makes are from 8-9 afr. Put smaller mains in, huge power boost just from fixing the mixture a bit, but haven't had the chance to dyno it again. Dyno operator said he's noticed that the dyno reads about 10 hp less than you'd feel on the street because of air velocity, not sure if true or not.
Yeah hes talking absolute shite lol.
Shame youve not got the AFR trace on the graph.
Peak looks to be around 8k so fairly high up rpm range. GSXR cams probably ideal.
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4 hours ago, rerb said:
That makes sense. I actually had mine dyno'd and peak power was at 9k, then sharply fell off. Sounds like a replacement set of stock cams is best for me.
Where was your peak torque? What shape was the curve?
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I would stick with what you have and invest 8n some dyno time before dicking about with cams. They need to match where your turbo is working best. You can end up killing low down torque because your cams are too extreme, and also loosing top end power because when the cams work the turbo is done.
Ideally you want some dyno time to see exactly whats going on and where you can improve before you dive in.
I run a VF23 IHI on mine and 300bhp at 9000rpm is where it stops, but it makes peak torque of 200ft lbs at 6000rpm. Thats with bandit 1200 cams, I tried gsxr 11 ines and it dropped peak torque down, and made no more power because the turbo was already at its limit.
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56 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Though the tdo5 was 3 bolt exhaust flange (yes I said flange
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Depends what car it was from, td04 cone with different fittings too
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3 hours ago, Allspeeds said:
It threw me at the time mate but I’m assuming the bore of a 16mm piston just doesn’t move the fluid far enough in one pull as a 19mm so it doesn’t lift to clear wich bye fitting longer push rod you would think would compensate but it doesn’t odd but hay every days a school day
Changing push rod length will do bugger all to affect ratio.
The slave will move exactly same distance every time master is pulled.
All you need to make sure with rod length is its not too long that its partially disengaging clutch, and not too short that its taking too much of the slaves movement up before it starts acting on the clutch pack.
Run 16mm ducati Brembo on mine for years. Is nice and light, but only just has enough displacement to disengae clutch so its crap for fast launches.
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1 hour ago, clivegto said:
Slightly exaggerated but the bit I have marked in silver can be removed. Not a good idea to remove to much material at the hinge side as it can jam the door when closing.
Might want to give that a good clean up if its yours mate, looks like its not sealing,
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39 minutes ago, badger said:
Awesome!
Much appreciated, thanks Clive!
Have a good look in the housing too mate, they are very prone to cracking around the the wastegate, maybe got somthing like that affecting things
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
I thought these VVT turbo's were somewhat more complicated than just removing the turbine housing? And if you can't remove same, the thought of cast iron dust from grinding being fired at the bearings won't promote a lengthy lifespan - hence the disassembly answer, but I will bow to those more knowledgeable!
They arent VVT, split down to inlet housing, turbine housing and core pretty easily, apart from sometimes being a bit tight with corrosion. Good long penetrating oil soak and gentle persuasion usually sorts it.
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6 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Work Work Work, getting in the way, havent had a minute to scratch my arse let alone do stuff to Brian, I cant wait to retire in 3 years,
Just got to decide weather to sell the Teapot to fund shiny bits, or keep it....
I used to be indecisive but now I dont know....
Or swap it for shiny bits
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Has someone just revved this up in a shed and badly drawn those graphs with a crayon?
As Dunc says, take it somewhere that has a clue and they will set it up for you.
Looks to me like its rich at the bottom end and lean at the top too. Not the other way round
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Only engine stuff isnt imterchangeable on is the short stroke 748cc ones iirc mate.
Early slabby motors and later slimgy ones when they went back to long stroke are pretty much the same.
Heads are all interchangeable, dot heads are from short stroke motors
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13 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Just need to work out if there is enough clearance Clarence
Unscrew your fork tops ;-)
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18 hours ago, Jmckechnie said:
‘90 750L
EFI, Borgwarner snail
200hp even at the rear wheel @1bar. Extremely streetable- so much so that I’ve even built a seat for my son to come along for a ride ( it hides under the rear seat cowling). It’s also fast enough to push 180-190 at the bonneville salt flats on the intermediate course.
Ace
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47 minutes ago, Dezza said:
Short stroke 750s were not sold anywhere until 1988 and the thread title states 86, so presumably it's a 750 long-stroke slabby unless the bike has had an engine swap
Also says the cam and trigger are for an older model. And there isnt an older model thats different.
So without further info everything is a presumption
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Dont think the 750's are as bad as the 11's if you up the rpms a bit. They have long since stopped making good power ny then anyway.
I used to increase the limit on my short stroke motor at some tracks just to stop crashing into limiter mid corner or to avoid an un-needed gear change. Dont think it was by 1k tho.
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1 hour ago, Chriscorven said:
I have a race bike GSXR 750 I would like to change the rev limiter add another 1000 would be nice for the gearing and tracks I ride.
I purchased a used Dyna2000 but the cam and trigger are for older bike will not work on my bike, unless I buy new one for 250.00 us dollars.
the question I have is there another way to increase the rev limiter or eliminate it or use the Dyna2000 with the stock trigger and cam gear. I have a V&H cam on there set at 5 degreesany suggestion or help would be appreiciated.
Thanks ChrisDitch the dyna and get an ignitech
Set your limiter to wgatever you want, programme your own ignition curve, also has quickshifter function and loads of other stuff.
Uses standard pickup and coils too
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11 and 12 motors have 5 gears, 600 and 750 have 6, about easiest way to see if its big capacity lump or not.
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19 hours ago, dupersunc said:
Dint know why people bother when chrome powder coat is so good nowadays
Spondon Turbo back to the 90s build
in Trick Frames
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Looks cool mate, shame to cover that subframe up