MeanBean49

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I want to do the trackday I can put my bike or 2 on the stand if required

Yeah but then you have to space the rear sprocket carrier somehow, which isnt a good idea as they are meant to have the sprocket sit flush against it to take the torque from the engine properly

Sawpping 530 to 520 wont do anything. The inside face of the speocket is still in the exact same place.

Im pretty sure all k series are 110mm and slabbies and slingshots 100mm

Im pretty sure the sprocket offset is 10mm bigger on k5 wheels. 10mm offset front sprocket would make chain foul on the frame. I used k1-4 wheels. Solved it with a combination of 2mm spacer behind front sprocket, 5mm off rear carrier and talon sprocket fitted backwards to get the chain run to be straight and wheel central

I think the little ones are just overflows, the bigger ones are your air reference bits for float chamber, they are normally conected to airbox but dont really matter in n/a stuff, they are what wants to be connected to your pitot feed. Not too dificult to mess round with conecting them all or blanking one then the other. I think blank bottom ones and use the top to start with

Sounds like they could be like the 40mm carbs that have seperate venting system. I think I would start with them blanked off and use the 2 big ones at the top

Strange. On my carbs ive got fuel in feeds and then just the float bowl overflows that you put feed to. There are no other feeds. They dont have liquid warmer things on em or owt daft do they? Will have a look at my 400 carbs when i get chance. See if i can suss it out. Might just want blanking off

Looking really neat mate. Your 2 big feeds, on mine the takeoff is in the up pipe just before it goes into plenum. Just one and the y piece to split it 2 ways. Inside the pipe its cut at about 45 degrees and orientated pointing down the pipe towards the turbo so it gets positive flow. Sticks into the up pipe about 10mm before the degeed bit. Hope that helps and makes sense

My Spondon has led a hard life for the last 3 years and its about due some love and attention, will be starting to pull it to pieces very shortly, giving it a complete makeover and a stronger engine. Thought I would start by putting up some of my fav pics from this year.

I use 3 of the 4 carb take-offs. I find its best not to link any of them as i think you can get bleed off into the other cylinder thats not on tge same stroke if that makes sense. Technically they arent vaccum points anymore. They are pressure takeoffs now your pushing air into the engine. However on closed throttle you will also get vaccume Fpr only needs pressure, Bov only really needs pressure and boost gauge will go either way off the same tapping. Hope that makes sense, sounds like your getting muddled up with pressure and vaccume and what its doing

Triumph use the same bore/ratio master cylinder.

Nope. Exactly the same. Would have loads of lever travel to get em to work if pistons were bigger

Triumph calipers are exactly the same caliper as nissin 4 pots just badged triumph. Tend to cost more than a set of nissins for some reason though.

Sorry, my mistake. Edited ;-)

They do work ok when looked after, but no better than the 4 pots which take far less maintenance to keep that way, and they bleed up way easier. Best upgrade is the tokico 4 pots off early s-rad 600 and Tl1000s they perform a bit better than 4 pot nissins. Zx7rr nissin 6 pots are the real ones to have but are rocking horse poo. Mv f4 calipers are the same nissin 6 pots but they are a wierd bolt spacing and dont fit. I find harrision billets are ok but more a bling caliper than performance Pfm 6 pots are awesome with the matching discs Any caliper fully working with good discs, braided lines and quality pads should be more than up to the job of stopping well. A radial master cylinder is avout the best mod you can make to a brake system, feel and control is so much better. Thats what i have found anyway :-)

Go back to the 4 pots. Way better calipers. Tokico 6 pots are for looks not stopping.

Not listed on website but iirc theres a picture of one in his gallery. Worth a call

Try Spike at ragged edge racing. Thinn he had a mould for RK seats

Awesome effort mate. Impressive to see. Shame rain stopped play for me too. Disapointing 184 was not what I wanted

My old head? Off my 837 motor? Cant even remember what happened to that engine lol. Was a really good lump. High comp dot head might be a bit much for an 11 based motor. Standard Dot head puts compression up a fair bit on its own

No need to brace anything swingarm mount wise. Actually stronger than a bandit. They do handle and ride nice too. I would quite happily ride mine on a track day.

I had my Q plate Harris insured with Adrian Flux no probs

Exactly. Its such a grey area and there own guidelines contradict themselves. I keep all my donor frames just in case there is any issue. My insurance are happy enough and if there ever was any issue the likely outcome is you will be told to get an SVA done. If your not trying to hide anything then theres no real issue. The SVA guide woukd seem to suggest that even hacking off a subframe is a chassis modification and requires an SVA test, how many oil cooled gsxr's have been running round like this for years, and with front and rear end swaps so they dont actually have 2 major components from the origional bike? The same situation here.