MeanBean49

Yep save the hassle and get Rich to do you a set. Great price and he can do funky colours and everything

Good thing i found with motors was when i ran my turbo motor in N/a form for a couple of races. Busa pistons give nice low compression and 1216cc. Was running a bandit 1200 head and cams. Motor only made 115bhp on the bemsee dyno but it was hugely grunty and had massive midrange. You could do somthing similar and with some flatslides and head work would see 125bhp. The other thing is the low comp keeps the heat generated down, helps stop the power loss problem. Good set of busa pistons are cheap compared to new big bore pistons too. I also run an ignitech cdi. Fully programable. Can change ignition timing every 500ish rpm. They are awesome

No probs. You can get pretty steep on the rake on these gsxr's without really upsetting them too much. I found lighter wheeld didnt make too much difference really. Ive never ran a steering damper either, they are that stable. I reckon you will find when you start trying to break later and get on the gas as earlier as your mate on the R6 you will find the chassis is the limiting factor. Will start twisting and getting out of shape to the point it wont go any quicker. I would be fairly confident that will before you get anywhere near a 1:37 They will lean well, go well and stop well enough. Its the transition between them that becomes the issue. Really cool what your doing, very interesting to see how quick you manage to get to and if you start running into same problems i had with my slingshot. Fast action throttle is essential

Ahh ok. Dropping forks 10mm shouldnt affect ground clearence and will steepen the rake slightly to make it turn better. One thing i found for circuit racing oil cooled stuff is you cant get enough weight over the front, 60/40 is best you can do without making the rear unstable on the brakes. Possibly just the way i ride. Also the lower to the ground you can get the motor the better they handle

Loads to do. I will be out in Sport at Snetterton so will catch up with you If my racing experience helps i found up towards 60% weight on front helps, better if you can do it by dropping forks through rather raising rear. Oil temp and jetting probably explains top speed drop off, used to get it with mine. Top end cooler kit helped loads, dead easy to do. Cost about £100 if you get bits together seperate. Torques do the fittings, hose is £10 a meter and JJC race rally do the coolers for about £45

Easiest way to do it is use the slingshot shock and linkage and just make some linkages from some ally bar and 4 female rose joints. Rand my race bike the same way. What wheel are you using?

No worries. There uf you want to take it to offer up anyway. I know liners are thicker and better for boring a bit bigger

Werent a million miles away at all. Got a block you can have off 1127 if it will fit

Hey mine made 158. Ive been robbed haha. Awesome to see everyone pretty close to the mark

Awesome day. Well worth the trip over

Good effort mate. Fair way to go to get into the non rookie top 10. Be interesting following your progress

1.40 i think is about my best. Possibly a 1.39 Thats on my spondon. Best could manage on slingshot was 1.43 i think.

Yep. Like i said in my earlier post. Im fairly sure the gsxr 1000 forks came up about 10mm shorter than standard. Think i had 10mm drop at front 25-30 lift on the rear and about 20mm shorter wheelbase with k-series swingarm. Was the best handling setup i found without making it unstable or top heavy. Probably bit too much for road use. Never once had a ground clearence issue.

Yeah i think those figures for the fork length are pretty wrong. Youce got say 30cm between the yokes. And about 30cm from wheel spindle to top of the mudguard. That 60cm if the mudguard was touching the top yoke and that already longer than the 55cm your quoting. Physical imposibility. And then if it did fit you still have no travel The gsxr 1000 forks in my bike were setup shorter than the 750 slingshot ones they replaced. I set it that way myself

Might pop up and have a watch on sat. Interesting to see how it goes. Reckon the fast boys be running well under 1.40's this year if its dry. Be impressive to see if you can get slabby under 1.45 1st time out

No problems running near the front of the grid in national level racing. :-) Paddock hill bend at Brands hatch, if anywhere will show clearence issues its here

Shit the bed. Is his passport even in date?

Think im gona pop over for a brew and butty. Be in the van and hobbling though :-)

Never had ground clearence issues with mine with shorter forks in. Just had rear jacked up about 25mm and front about 10mm shorter iirc. Putting the whole lot up by 50mm is going to make the handling feel even more heavy and cumbersome as well as reducing grip. Get as much weight on the front as you can (60/40 think i was at) seemed only way to get em to turn in decent and hold a tight line, Still perfectly setup on modern running gear, you find the frame is the limiting factor.

My old race bike was an 88 frame, when I totalled it ended up with a later 90 frame, didn't quite handle as well as the older one, wasn't as sharp, however what I did notice was with modern running gear (k-series front and rear end) the frame really quickly becomes the weak link, they do like to twist a bit.

Will find link for the bellmouth. Was only cheap, so was the wire mesh. Its just lockwired on

Had that problem last year. Made this for this year. No clearence issues and sounds ace

Look at No Limits track days too. they do a lot at Cadwell

Yeah lets do another, invade a random trackday

I know. 1st corner looks nothing like how steep it really is