TonyGee
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Posts posted by TonyGee
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arn't the 36mm bandit carbs the same size as the EF ?
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I put the selector drum in the neutral position first, then drop the gears in, when you put the crankcases together then check all the gears are their before you go any further
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22 minutes ago, ccroaker said:
suits it great.... flows nicely into the tail unit....some nice mods done ... like the exhaust
cheers
I had to cut the seat base down a bit at the sides to follow the shape of the tail unit, the exhaust is an old yoshimura system.
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I got one last year, it was advertised as a GS1000 but when it turned up it wasn't wide enough for the GS1000 tail unit
but with a bit of modifying i got it to fit the later GS850 tail unit 
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4 minutes ago, Kamikaze said:
glad u got it sorted...best thing bout the old girls is most of the time u can sort it out urself.
Its either fuel, spark or ignition....go knows how they diagnose electrical problems on these new race bikes...
one thing that put me off mechanicing on modern bikes, doing a road test on a GSXR1000 with a laptop on my back and plugged into the bike
then start adjusting things on a computer screen !!!!!! not for me, i like using hand tools give me a set of carbs any day -
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10 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
Glad your paying attention.
Because I'm clearly not.
Its a one off, I don't usually pay attention
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1 hour ago, dupersunc said:
The coil for 1&4 is breaking down. Throw away and replace.
it has 4 stick coils
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that could be a pulse coil problem ?? but check the wiring first.
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do the simple things first, if you have a spare set of plugs throw them in and see what happens
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are you talking twin shocks ? if so ive used them cheap Chinese piggy back ones twice, yeah i know most people will say they are crap but the ones i used seamed ok. £40 posted is really cheap for ally shocks and they are re-buildable, if you are on a tight budget (like me) then they'll do as a temporary set till you can afford good ones
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so what ive read it looks like 83 on and maybe some 82 engines where welded at the factory ??? but theirs only one way to know for sure.
cheers lads
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1 hour ago, rodneya said:
My 83 GSx1100E crank is welded.
Is that from the factory though ?
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4 minutes ago, spondonturbo said:
efe engines had some welding to the crank but not enough for big hp. The earlier GSX motors did not as far as I know.
I found a thread about a guy who stripped his engine for the first time and found 3/4 of it welded !!!! theirs a few saying they are and a few saying they are not
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53 minutes ago, clivegto said:
If you take the clutch out you can see if the crank is welded or not
cheers clive, dont really want to start stripping things off just to check yet, but might at some stage. by all accounts and with more research it looks like they are welded but not right across the crank, not welded on the left end but the rest is !!!!!
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Ive read the 1982 on GSX1100 engines had their cranks welded at the factory, ive not had my 83 engine in bits so dont know for sure, can anyone verify this ?
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7 minutes ago, Blue said:
Enough meat there to take a little off the caliper?
I had to do that on one of mine, only about 1mm still plenty of meat on the calliper.
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30 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Yup got all the paperwork correct but the V5 says that the first reg was 95, but I've got proof of build date that JB got so I have to persuade her that it's all kosher.....
good luck
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have you got a V112 form ? Ive done it twice now and it took less than a Minute to do. dead easy and they will tax it for you at the same time
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just love that brake setup, very mechanical, nice T500
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handy little tool
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14 minutes ago, Jaydee said:
That set could have pressed in pins too. That why I mentioned press fit occurs in other types of carbs. Half the carbs I work on have loose pins and other pressed pins.
I'd check the other carbs on the bank. If all pins are tight, more likely press fit, if all the other pins are loose bar one, then that pin is most likely damaged or bent out line putting pressure and grip on the posts.
I have 2 sets of the same carbs and they are both the same with the wide end at the pin head, only saying like
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23 minutes ago, Jaydee said:
Nope, plenty of carbs out there where the pin is a deliberate press fit on the open end of the pin. Don't know why they bother as the pin can't go anywhere with the walls of the bowl stopping the pin from shifting.
yeah their is but we are talking about the O.P.s carbs
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2 minutes ago, Jaydee said:
I work on at least 1 set of carbs every week that has to the 2 post with a tight pin. As said gentle tapping is one way. But sometimes the open end of the pin is quite tight and can jam in that post causing the post to snap at its base leaving the pin still attached to the broken post. The secret to not breaking the post is to start by breaking the bond at the open end by twisting the pin at the pins head. You trying to screw the pin out of the open end, not press.
yeah thats a good idea, a good pin should not be tight at the open end (unless its been damaged) the tight (wide) end is at the pin head.
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to me, this is what a GSXR1100 should look like, but thats just MY opinion
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Gear selector rods
in Air Cooled
Posted
its the wheel and spring you can see in your pic, it sits on the smallest dimple on the selector drum cam.