TonyGee
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Posts posted by TonyGee
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the first cam chain I replaced waaaaay back in the 80's on an XS250 came with only a split link !!!!!!
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I wouldn't like to say for definite if it should be plugged or not !!! but when the cover is on it will act like a blanking plug.
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ive seen a few crankcases on the bay and everyone has no blanking plug, if they are a tighish fit then they wouldn't normally fall out, but if they are loose then yeah they could just slide out, nothing in the parts diagram ??? did they maybe do away with them and rely on the cover to blank them off ?
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1 hour ago, busa1300 said:
Also working a deal on a TM400 cylinder and head for some added insanity
feck !!!!!! it will be insane with a TM top end
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56 minutes ago, congy said:
You're a star
not quite but we are all made from the same stuff as one
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if I remember right I think its Brown !!!!
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yes Hyvo's are fun !!!!! I have a little splitter for them which has a small pin. the fun bit is putting the very small plates in when you are working on the head, the big danger is to drop a plate down the cam chain tunnel !!!!!! use a shit load of rags in every hole just in case
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18 hours ago, Dezza said:
The 600 / 750 teapot cover works too. The 750 teapot cable has a 90 degree bend at the lever and works best with clip-ons; for flat bars use the 600 Blandit cable. No need to faff about with different pushrods. It's easier to replace the adjuster screw in the cover with a longer one if needed
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I had too swap the pushrod on mine as I couldn't get enough play on the worm drive adjustment screw.
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that brings back memories of my very first bike when i was 15, a TS125, loved it.
I also put a set of road wheels on a YZ490 way back in the mid 80's just to see what it looked like, never knew anything about supermoto's back then.
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55 minutes ago, 063scottr said:
Hi there do you have a process on how you did this conversion I’m looking at doing it on my mk1 1200 bandit
B6 sprocket cover, cable and clutch lever assy. I also used the B6 pushrod as they are slightly different lengths.
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39 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
Yes you buy a complete 600 blandit disconnect the 600 engine from the sprocket cover then bolt your 1200 engine to it
Doh !!!!!
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4 minutes ago, Jonny said:
Don't know about Bandits, but I've had issues with the coils failing on a couple of GSXR1100s now and always swap Suzuki coils for Dyna ones.
dyna are good but not cheap !!!! I know genuine aren't cheap either but good used ones are available
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all the years of working on and owning bandits ive never had a problem with a coil !!!!! but that doesn't mean they don't fail. also you can clean carbs till the cows come home so they are spotless but doesn't mean they are good to go. if a float valve is leaking it'll never run right. but I hope its sorted.
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I thought you replaced the plugs ???? or I would of said put new ones in. ive seen this issue many times but mostly with the 600's. but saying that if you still have a problem with the carbs then the issue will reappear after a few miles. ride it around at low speeds for a while and see what happens.
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they are generally noisy engines, out of the 6 ive owned only 2 where quiet.
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24 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said:
Could be the ICU, could be the wires in the harness for the second coil since it’s only cylinders 2 and 3. You can always swap the wires around and see if that works.
its cylinders 2 and 4 that are cold !!!!!!
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57 minutes ago, all said:
ALSO PLEASE NOTE something very interesting: LEFT coil runs ***cyl 4 (coli TOP) and cyl 1 (coil bottom). RIGHT coil runs ***cyl 2 (coil TOP) and cyl 3 (coil bottom).
makes no difference, its a waisted spark system, both H.T. leads spark at the same time.
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having 2 cylinders clean should be a clue !!!! could be getting washed with excess fuel. what is getting common on older bandits is the float valve not sealing and letting fuel through. are the plugs on the cylinders that won't run sooty/black ?
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if the valve is leaking then it'll need replacing.
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6 minutes ago, rideordive2ss said:
Forgiven my ignorance, how do I test this
by doing a bench test. I have a home made stand that I hang the carbs on using my vice. they have to hang straight and level. then hook up a dummy fuel tank above the carbs and let the fuel flow to the carbs. then leave them for a while. a bad leak will show up straight away but a small leak will take longer. if a float valve is leaking you will see fuel coming out of the carb venturi (where the air flows through from the airbox)
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3 minutes ago, rideordive2ss said:
91 gsxr750 with a 907 kit
I just had the carbs out so maybe but all seemed well enough when I inspected and reinstalled. Yes the plug does foul up same with 3 now that I think of it but I was working on the carbs and had many hard starts before I got it right so when I cleaned them all (sand blasted) reinstalled I've only checked #1 and 4 since then and 1 is more so worse off but like I said at higer rpm I can tell all 4 cyl are working it's just at idle sounds off and when I pulled the wire no change but some times it would sputter when pulled.. I put a plug in the boot and grounded it and shit for spark
I would still look into the float valve though, when they leak it runs very rich at idle and low revs and fouls the plug giving a misfire, giving the impression of loosing the spark. but at high rev's the extra fuel is used and runs better. seen this many times.
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you didn't say what bike ? is the plug getting sooty ? you get them symptoms with a leaking float valve, lumpy at low rev's but no problem at higher revs.
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27 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:
Seems like we all had them,
still got mine lying around somewhere
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1 hour ago, Reinhoud said:
Still need to know the angles..
if you have the angles how are you gona bend it and keep the wheel alignment straight ?
Ongoing project..
in Oil Cooled
Posted
is that a real word ?
