TonyGee
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Posts posted by TonyGee
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someone will chime in soon and say "fit a turbo"
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I had an old small screwdriver that I cut a groove in the blade, and gently tap in-between the head of the pin and the post if theirs enough room, the downward tap is safer that a side tap.
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them posts are very fragile so be very carful, the pin is tight at the head end as its slightly wider to hold it in the post so support that post.
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the plugs are different from 600 to 1200 so i don't think they will fit, but you can swap the plugs over.
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that bike looks well with wire wheels Tony, if I had the cash I would build a pair for mine,
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2 tyres of the same size but of a different make will prefer their own pressure, best thing would be to experiment on track
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talk about a bodge !!!!!! some people eh
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I suppose it depends on what hub you are using ? if its a wide one then the spokes will be further apart. the size (width) of the rim won't make any difference but a wider tyre might !!!!! are you using kat forks ?
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I think thats a B12 top yoke, B6 handlebar clamps are part of the casting.
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got an old gear lever and cut it down, had to flatten it a bit but looks better than the bodgy one i made. 55mm hole centres if anyone is interested. the only drawback is i have no freeplay at the clutch lever to stop the drag but no slip when wound on.
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I'm pretty sure they are Toni but can't 100% guarantee
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44 minutes ago, Suzukian said:
The Heli-Coils I use have serrated back edges which hold the inserts into place. Maybe they are different or are different kinds? How about one of those rubber plugs that expand, and if you hit a bump, piss your oil out, make your back tire slip, and kill your engine, or, in a best case scenario, work as advertised.
is that a new type of butt plug !!!!
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
I would have thought a helicoil is a bad solution for a through hole as this, difficult to lock into place - as you've found out! I'd go for oversize plug for cheapness but deffo take sump off for accurate job!
what about a short timesert ? if its short enough it should lock in place and with the aid of some locktite.
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I make my own, just buy the hose and fittings then you can get them exact.
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what airfilter setup are you using ?
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hope you didn't pay to much for it !!!! good project though
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had a bit of an idea, gona find a gear lever that'll fit the splines and cut it down to length. might look a bit better.
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its a shame they don't make em anymore
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25 minutes ago, imago said:
Just thought I'd mention it as they get talked about on here fairly often. There's a couple being sold together on Eblag in usable/reasonable condition, item number 185829226463
Nothing to do with me, spotted them looking for some other bits.
yeah saw them, will need some TLC though
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update, finally got round to fitting the home made clutch arm, and its made a big difference. i can now pull the clutch with 2 fingers but better with 4
really happy with it as I was thinking of changing the engine or selling the bike as it was pretty painful. but now its a joy to ride just need some warmer weather now will make or buy a better looking arm at some point.
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2 hours ago, Pegleg said:
Did the mk1 Bandit 1200 carbs have TPS? I assumed the carbs I have must be mk2 as they have TPS. The wire harness on the bike has a TPS plug so I assumed someone had fitted a mk2 harness. The bike was cheap and in bits with 10 previous owners so who knows.
yep
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53 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
TG - you are overplaying what the Colourtune is capable of! They are really only of any use at idle and to correct adjustible idle AF mixtures as this is an area where the engine isn't under any load. To correct any other range, the engine should be under load - either on the road or a dyno - and trying to read a Colourtune out on the road could be pretty dangerous LOL!, and if you are on a dyno, it should be equiped with AFR monitoring making the Colourtune surplus to requirements.
Don't get me wrong, CT's are great devices for an annual garage check / tune up of idle running, just like a set of vacuum guages, just not loaded / under power tuning!
yeah i agree things are different under load but it'll get your mixtures in the right ballpark, it does say in the instructions to go through the rev range !!! my old XS11 had a small flat spot at 3-4000rpm and i could see it was running weak with the colourtune, so lifted the needles and the flat spot has gone with a nice blue flame. it takes the guess work out of it and at £40 its a dam sight cheaper than a dyno run for us who are skint
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yeah got it off the bay £40 new. they are a good bit of kit and can help get your mixture set right through the rev range. have you got another exhaust system to try on ?
600.mk1 bandit
in Oil Cooled
Posted
easy peasy, just drill out the rear lower engine mount holes to suit the 1200 engine.