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TonyGee
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Posts posted by TonyGee
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a riveted cam chain is perfectly fine if done correctly
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1 hour ago, Reinhoud said:
Just don't!!
Do it right, no excuses! Valve clearence is there for a reason!
yep, as the factory designed it.
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yeah a more powerful windy gun normally shifts them.
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wrap some masking tape round the stator 2 times or so then fit the cover, turn the engine over by hand a few times and pull the cover off for a look see.
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1 hour ago, Fergie1050 said:
I’m going to strip it back down this weekend. It was working before I changed the plates and springs. It’s obvious I must have messed up something
as I said check the cable as well.
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has you clutch cable got an adjuster half way down its length ? make sure the cable is all the way in ALL the adjusters, one at the clutch lever, one half way down the cable and one on the top of the crankcase.
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have you had the whole clutch basket out or did you just replace the plates ?
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15 minutes ago, Fergie1050 said:
Ok is not the short arm on top, it’s the shaft that runs down the depth of the casing, as per the photo
not really understanding your problem !!! the clutch shaft in the cover stays in the cover when you fit it, the release barrel with the teeth just slides in and meshes with the shaft if its lined up. have you any pic's of your bike/clutch ?
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6 minutes ago, Fergie1050 said:
Thanks but it is facing the rear. I can get them to mesh so the casing goes on, but the clutch arm doesn’t engage
not sure what you mean about the clutch arm ???? the short chrome arm on the top comes off, if its in the wrong position just move it on the splines.
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sounds like the little barrel with the teeth on in the clutch drum is facing the wrong way, turn it so the teeth face the back wheel.
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9 minutes ago, DaveV65 said:
Do you need a special respirator when using the 2K clearcoat? Not saying line fed as in a car spraybooth but a particular level of vapour and particle filtration?
you do with any paint but more so with the 2K stuff, it is very strong !!!! I use a normal face mask when using it, probably not good enough but better than nowt
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
Part #27 (on that diagram) isn't a hose its a seal? on the end of the butterfly shaft! And it would be unusual to have a mechanical clamp fixing of a hose to that bracket - especially if is a vac. hose just fixing to the fuel tap! Didn't these bikes have a cable operated choke - that cable would be secured to that bracket IMO!
I think the numbers he's quoted have no connection to the symptoms !!!! but he did mention a hose was missing which is why it won't run on ON & RES. me thinks he's made a mistake
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symptom of a missing vacuum hose to the tap.
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the 600 and 750 are the same size, the 600 I measured was 14-15mm shorter than a 1200.
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their was a guy called "ferret" who is/was a mobile lecy fitter. he sleeps in his van
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that is really nice
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Do a bench test on the carbs. They'll probably show a leak.
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my guess is no, but ive made all kinds of seat fit other frames with a bit of jiggery pokery
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got to agree with fatblokeonbandit, if the mileage is correct and it hasn't had a real hard life then I would say the engine is ok, (they are pretty tough) the first thing I would of looked at was the carbs. they are getting on now and float valves are wearing out, ive seen this countless times, a new set of float valves usually fixes them. do a bench test on the carbs to rule them out before stripping the top end again.
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the spokes look really thin for ally !! could the wheel be steel ? a magnet will tell you.
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3 hours ago, imago said:
As above but I would add one thing. Remake the charging circuit electrical connections, all of them. They're 40 years old and didn't use the best components even then so there will be poor connections with high resistance all over the place. It's such a commonly overlooked part of the system and yet is the main cause of both the original problems and also the "I've spent hundreds on a reg/rec, stator, battery and it won't charge properly/caught fire/burnt out the new stuff." issues.
Fitting the best MOSFET reg/rec (Shindengen BTW) stator and battery is pointless without making sure the wiring and connectors which carry their output are up to the job.
spot on, I did the same thing on my GSX11 after fitting a new battery and MOSFET reg/rec. perfect charging
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4 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
One maybe, two is risky but all eight - no thanks! I'd want them properly line bored and that costs!
I agree.
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yes its just a cover over the fuel sender, if the sender leaks fuel the cover will catch it and the fuel will drain down a hose to safety.
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1 hour ago, kelvin said:
Any ideas on getting a good result with painted wheels.
I have a set of GS 1000ST gold wheels and would like to do a clear coat to improve the gloss factor
spraymax 2K clear coat is excellent stuff, its just like what the pro's use but in a can, it has to be mixed in the can to activate it but you have to use it all within 2 days or so. used it many times with fantastic results, and its tough. but its not cheap. about £25 a can
but in my mind worth it.
15 to 17.5
in Air Cooled
Posted
white smoke could be leaking stem seals at start up.