TonyGee

its cylinders 2 and 4 that are cold !!!!!!

makes no difference, its a waisted spark system, both H.T. leads spark at the same time.

having 2 cylinders clean should be a clue !!!! could be getting washed with excess fuel. what is getting common on older bandits is the float valve not sealing and letting fuel through. are the plugs on the cylinders that won't run sooty/black ?

if the valve is leaking then it'll need replacing.

by doing a bench test. I have a home made stand that I hang the carbs on using my vice. they have to hang straight and level. then hook up a dummy fuel tank above the carbs and let the fuel flow to the carbs. then leave them for a while. a bad leak will show up straight away but a small leak will take longer. if a float valve is leaking you will see fuel coming out of the carb venturi (where the air flows through from the airbox)

I would still look into the float valve though, when they leak it runs very rich at idle and low revs and fouls the plug giving a misfire, giving the impression of loosing the spark. but at high rev's the extra fuel is used and runs better. seen this many times.

you didn't say what bike ? is the plug getting sooty ? you get them symptoms with a leaking float valve, lumpy at low rev's but no problem at higher revs.

still got mine lying around somewhere

if you have the angles how are you gona bend it and keep the wheel alignment straight ?

I think the way to go is on a jig.

I bought this seat on my 750, it was advertised as a GS1000 but it was not wide enough for the GS1000 tail unit, but the later GS850 tail unit just about fitted. Im sure it was a GS 750 one. !!!!!!

that seams odd I think what I would do is strip the switch and check/clean the little copper sliders first just to rule them out.

sounds like one of the float valves is slightly leaking, they will over fuel giving a rich mixture and fowl the plug, but when you wind it on the extra fuel gets used and runs good. run it round at low revs for a while so its popping again then check all the plugs, if one is black and sooty theirs your problem.

yes on bikes like a GSXR1000 and others will make a difference, but not with a bandit. ive yet to come across one that adjusting it makes and change !!!!!

yep in my experience ive disconnected the TPS on a few bikes as well as my own and cant tell any difference what so ever !!!!!!! others will tell you the same thing that they don't do feck all. can't see the reason why suzuki fitted them to the bandit it doesn't even show up on a dyno.

I disagree as they do feck all, but thats my view

this is why the GSX1100 forks are the best to keep the ride height as close to standard as possible. but like i keep saying they are hard to find in good condition.

I think the step yoke is the only way to go

I'd still completely remove the PAIR's though. you can make blanking plates for the cylinders or buy a set of stainless ones of the bay of E.

imago might be on to something their, worth checking all the ignition system wiring and the connector plugs for a good connection.

yep, me too

I remember the smell back in the late 70's at school here in the UK, some of the lads used it when playing rugby in the cold.

has it got the OEM exhaust can on it still ?

first thing is completely remove the PAIRs system as they dont need it, some bandits really prefer a Genuine Suzuki air filter not a hiflo.

if you are inventive you could make some sort of jacking bolt with a small point to force it out, but with a flat base for a level and to protect the carb.