Fredrik_Steen

You need to change the washers in the head when you use CHN1000K nuts. The stock ones will just deforme and lose claming force. Ignition curve you need to be abel to controll. Boostcontroller, you need to be abel to contoll boost around torque max. Torqe kills engines. I would go for a MSL gasket, not cooper.

Yes Sir, the short model. Now I use IGN1A Smart Coil

Found a really old picture in my Phone I use what we call "Tredobricka" in Swedish. A Steel/rubber washer from the hydraulic world on both sides on the cover. Grind some fin's of the cover to get a nice sealing surface. A standard cherry red sensor, 1mm from the exhaust lobe. Don't forget to account for the sealing between the cover and head when the cover are torqued down.

1. Look in my build thread "half thousand horses" there are pictures of my instalation on cam sensor without welding. 3. There are a basemap for gsxr/bandit to download on maxxecu website

The change to a new sensor was relatively easy, I used the oem base plate and added a tab to mount the sensor Love your new dyno, it looks awesome! Would be fun if you documented your Maxx instalation on the bandit here on this page

Yes it works with stock wheel if you press the big red help button in M-Tune and then scroll down to Trigger and open Suzuki Gsxr you will find my examples on trigger logs. Send a email to support@maxxecu.com They usually reply the same day

I needed to change sensor on my maxxecu gsx-r 1100. We couldn't find Zero-crossing with stock sensor. Maxxecu support tried but with no luck.

Holdener did a test earlier this week, boost juice vs windshield washer. He also has a 1h video up on the topic that you might be interested in If you don't want to fit a intercooler, look into converting your fuel system to E-85.

You won't use the coolant in a engine with water either, it's to hot. The intercooler water needs to be ambient temperature. You only need a small water radiator, when you ain't under boost the ambient inlet air in the boost pipe will cool the intercooler core. The big problem with bandits are the space behind the engine, it's very hard to have the intercooler core in the plenum like all Hayabusa have. Video on the topic

With a intercooler your boost pressure will drop and you gain hp (denser air) It's a hassle to make room for intercoolers, but it will be worth it The sloppy bandit cams ain't funny at all, if you can find something else it would be more worth it than porting the head.

Would love to see the dyno chart

If you calculate it in matchbot intercooler are more worth it than port the head. Do you have stock bandit camshafts?

You can calculate your intake temp in matchbot: https://www.borgwarner.com/aftermarket/boosting-technologies/performance-turbochargers/matchbot What turbo and intercooler are you running?

I did the high boost runs in a inertia dyno. Later that day i took the bike out and bought my self a ice-cream at wastegate spring ~ 0,6bar pressure. I'm not sure what OP are interested in, but I think the majority of people are on boost a few seconds pulling a gear or two

Did you gap the rings or was it factory spec? Stock ignition curve or retard?

Torque are hard on rods. I did 1,6bar @ 12 000rpm on stock rods and pistons. Rasing boost curve and a lot of ignition retard around torque max.

I have those mtc pistons in my bandit engine, don't forget to gap the rings. My friend did 450hp with a stock hayabusa engine on pump fuel a couple of weeks ago. (Stock 12+ compression) Busa pistons are strong!

5 psi ~ 0,34bar 100 stock bandit hp x 1,34 = 134hp Think that will last for a long time... Regarding non "motorcykel" dyno, people that actually know stuff are more impressed with a run in a loaded water absorber than on a light roller. Atleast you can't cheat with djhp like your best friend. My point was, keep your ignition timing safe and don't throw all boost in the torque max range. Most part failures are user errors.

You need to be able to retard your ignition. It´s key. A good boost controller, and keep the boost safe at peak torque If you are on a budget, you can make 250 without any modifications to the engine, the bandit lump has low compression from factory. First thing i would change if you have some money: - Cylinderhead studs and gap the pistonrings. E-85 would be useful and a intercooler.

Do cylinder 2-3 first and 1-4 last. It´s tight but i will work. Can be seen in my movie. 2:26 Suzuki Gsx-r 1100 EFI Random movies 2020 - YouTube Clean the base gasket, i use Loctite 3020 on the base gasket =)

"fuel pressure can rise in direct correlation to the boost pressue" it will do that connected to the plenum. You get a nice stable fuel pressure that rise with boost pressure. If you have vacuum the pressure will jump up and down and you get of your set base fuel pressure.

The regulator don´t want to see vacuum, just fit it to the plenum. Vacuum makes the fuel pressure unstable and it drops below your base setting. (idle and part throttle) Wastegate don´t need vaccum fit it to the plenum or turbo.

You can use the stock wheel with Maxxecu. But you need a VR sensor. Why use ignitech ecu instead of only Maxx?

You need a catch can with a ventilation hose on top. I did this test last night. Retur oil i a coke bottle and the scavange feed. Then you will know if you scavange enough oil. Anyone that can guess what the third hose are? =) Retur oil Turbo - YouTube (2500rpm on the movie) I´m running a very small ristriktor on my ball bearing turbo. You will see a increase on flow when you rev the engine. On a journal turbo and no ristriktor you will see a LOT of flow. ( I think it can hurt the engine when you take so mutch oil frome the main oil gallery)

How big is "very large drain" Look at the hole in the turbo, are you matching that? Turbo leaks oil after rebuild. Why? - YouTube Oil restrictor on the feed line you can look into