wraith
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Posts posted by wraith
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I can gess
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1 minute ago, TonyGee said:
sounds like it was drawing to much air, people have had some success with wrapping half the air filter to restrict the flow. but defeats the object of fitting separate filters. by the way you can't fit an inazuma airbox with the engine in the frame
How would you of got it out to put filters on ?
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Yes, with the k&n filters you'd need to go upto around 140 main and start with the needles in the center groove.
Using the standard Inazuma intake rubbers (rubbers between head and carbs) will be way to small for the gsx750f 36mm carbs and you'd be getting air leaking all over the place. So you need to get the rubber inlets as well and put new o'rings no the rubbers when you come to fit them.
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If it was me in your shoes, I'd ever put the gsx750f carbs and inlet rubbers back on and get some Dyno time or do the same with b6 carbs.
Did you use the 750f inlet rubbers?
Was it flat sporting from the start of the revs or higher up?
May just need bigger main jets.
As the gsx750f engine will be pretty much the same engine you have.
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28 minutes ago, terecha said:
What other carbs would fit? Mikuni RS34? Keihin FCR?
If you don't know about setting up carbs (ie the gsx750f carbs you tryed) the above carbs will be way out of your knowledge to set up and they don't go with the standard air box. So you would need to spend time getting them set up on a Dyna rolling road.
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Ok, they are a 32mm carb if I'm right?
If so, get a set of MK1 bandit 600 carbs, swap the pilot jets over and run it on them, or even get a set of gsxr/b12/gsx750f carbs and inlet rubbers and put them on. The gsx750f would probably be better
and you'd get some more power out of the 750 engine.
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have you replaced the rubber o ring around the needle valve seat/holder?
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7 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
maybe the intention is to upgrade the skinny forks for some beefier ones but keep the overall look ?
Then, it would be easier to just get a front end off a bigger GS
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if you want to upgrade the wheels but don't/haven't got the time or skills to swap swingarm etc
I'd say look at the bandit 400 rear wheel it maybe easier to fit in the standard swingarm but if you're looking at putting a standard front wheel in bandit forks, I'm not 100% on what you are looking at doing?
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I've used a b6 swing arm and welded mounts on the swingarm to make it into a twin shock set up.
You may need a sleeve for the bearings on the pivot spindle.
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12 hours ago, johny said:
good morning
with regards to rf600 bottom yoke and bandit forks did you manage to fit the original wheel as ive found on Eblag a twin brake disk original gs550 wheel or do we have fit a bandit wheel i already have the bandit wheel forks and the callipers..but not the rear wheel
also the rear wheel will the bandit wheel fit in the stock swing arm
why would you want to put the standard wheel in??
What's the point in putting more up to date forks in then go backwards and put the old wheel in.
You may as well get a gs750/850/1000 front end and put that in.
So the answer is NO.
The rf600 bottom yoke will only work with the MK1 b6, so if the mud guard is mounted via a plate across the wheel/forks and not bolted at the inner side it's a mk1
As for the back wheel, I don't know.
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I suppose, a big name and big price dose not always guarantee a good part.
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The bandit bottom yoke stem is longer.
You can ever swap the stems or if you're looking at the MK1 front end, you can use the rf600 bottom yoke, I've got this set up on my gs1000, you will need to sort out the lock stops as well.
The other thing to look at,Vis your gs550 the one with rolli ball bearing or tapper bearings?
If it the ball bearing type life gets a bit more interesting.
Go to All ball racing and have a look at there chart.
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2 hours ago, BikeJake said:
I've got an upgraded shock and progressive springs and front fork rebuild already done on the bike by the PO. As well as a braced arm being done shortly.
What year 750 head is a DOT head and do I need the cams and wheels and Ecu (and extra advance) please?
I appreciate all the info it's difficult for me to gather all the facts in one point, I'm afraid I am quite dyslexic which is why I work with machines and logic for a living... Thanks!
I'm dyslexic as well and there are some others on here like that as well, so don't worry about that bit (the piss will be taken at some point but don't take to heart it's all in good fun
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To your engine, as above, if you're getting a big bore anyway don't bother with a dot head as they only increase the combustion and the big bore will do that, so use the cash to get the standard b12 ported instead of buying a dot head
As to gsxr cams, you don't need the gsxr cam chain sprockets, as you will be using your b12 cam chain sprockets, any of the gsxr1100/750 or gsx1100f cams will be better than the b12 ones I can't remember which ones are the best (I think they where the slabside) but someone will be along to say which.
You can buy off the shelf advance wheels ATU from Grumpy 1260 (Eblag or he might be on here?) You can get 3-4 or 5° advance (iv got a 4° but that's just because it came up cheep on Eblag)
You can keep the standard b12 ECU, or spend money on a all singing all dancing thing.
Exhaust, is a must and that will be down to how deep are your pockets or what you like the look of.
Carb, all depends, you can get good results from the standard b12 carbs with Dyno time or get some flat slides, if you want top end 38-40mm if you want road usability 36mm, I like the gsxr750 38mm as they seem to be good at low revs but also give good mid and top end power.
Have a good read through the Francinsten pages on here lots and lots of info.
You may also want to look at the cable clutch conversion.
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1 hour ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
So a bandit can’t scratch with sports bikes .?
Mmmmmmmm
First 2 laps are warm ups no overtaking.. not bad for 25 year old Bandit with a 19 stone pensioner onboard
that's what I like to see -
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3 hours ago, johnr said:
i remember you posting about it back then and there were quite a few 'itll never last' posts!
And it's still going
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Put a set in my gs1000 about, errr over 6 years ago, standard comp, not a hi comp kit
but been in ever since with no problems.
Mine came from Hong Kong, think I payed about £80 then.
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Welcome to OSS
As you know/can tell, there meany different ways to go tuning the air cooled lump (take it you're doing a 1200 not the 600
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As above you can spend lots of money on big house power but you will need to do work on the handling, as standard bandits are a bit soft I'm told.
Engine wise, what do you want top end for track days say or a good all round road bike that you can have fun on?
For instance, I've got a b12 motor in my gsx et, I've put the dot head on that's been ported, a set of gsxr750 cams (different models have different cams, do a search for dot head and gsxr cam on this site) a 4° advancer and a set of gsxr750 38mm carbs and rubbers, a aftermarket (unknown down pipes).
Yes I agree it won't keep up with the lastest gsxr1000 etc but it puts a smile on my face.
If you want big bhp big bore and a turbo and start looking at the 200+ bhp mark
There are some lads on here the run fast bandit.
Just forget the handling or all that engine tuning will be a waste.
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1 hour ago, elavir said:
Sorry, GSXR750 1990.
I just found out last week, that the cam chain tensioner spring for the gsxr1100k are now not available
Just a off chance, will the gsx750f ones work? as they did them in the long stroke and short stroke motor
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What bike are you speaking about?
Share the info.
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Ps.
Welcome to OSS
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As @Gixer1460says you ever.
1. Leave the pipe off at the top of the engine.
2. Run pipe and leave it to the open air.
3. Put a new longer pipe on (from top of engine breather) with a air/oil filter on the end, can be got off eblag.
4. Put a longer pipe on (from top engine breather) buy a oil catch (eblag or elsewhere if you want) run new pipe to that, or use you favourite drinks can, make sure air can flow freely from can so engine can breathe
have a look through the projects section or do a search
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You've most probably nocked the clutch leaver without knowing.
Take the cover off the clutch master cylinder (on handle bar) push the clutch slave cylinder piston in slowly, it should then fit back on the bike. Pump the clutch leaver a cupple of times when the side cover is back on till you feel the pressure come back, refit the cover/lid and away you go.
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I know this was on here, but can't find it
Looking at removing the side stand cutout switch and remove the relay (saves space) which wires do you connect together ?
Thanks
GS550 front end conversion
in Air Cooled
Posted
Yes you need this box, as this is part of the ignition system, so some of the wires will go to the ATU behind the Rh side cover the others will end up going to the coils, a very basic description.
Pictures always help as well
No question is daft or stupid if you don't know what's what, so just ask away, if we think it's stupid we will tell you
but it's your bike 