wraith

Just got a Pro-race end can orderd and they are moding the can to sut the 64mm link pipe and welding a tab on it so I can bolt it the the bike all for the same cash £54 :) I will post a pic of it when it gets here and when it's on the bike ;)

I take it that you're on CV carbs. I start with 130 main Mikuni jets and the needle in the middle groove, but before you start make sure that the carbs are good and clean as a bit of dirt can give you lots of problems. Also, make sure that you balance the carbs each time you've had them off.

+1 or bolt at end of crank has came unden

It was £169 from the bay, delivered. As to end can, hadn't thought of DB killers but I was thinking of a Pro Race slash cut. I'm going to go and have a look at some DB killers now Do DB killers affect back pressure, jetting or any other relevant factors more than an open race can/shash cut? It'll be a very short secondary/link pipe, obviously. (It's on a GS1000 1100 standard-compression bore with ported head, gsxr34mm carbs.) Cheers all.

Well, after trying to get hold of Delkevic and no reply I decided to plump and get one. Bought a stainless steel system consisting of down pipes and 4 into 1 link pipe - but as I did not like the end can they did, I bought it without that (I'm looking around to get one separately which I like, although a bit of a pain given the diameter, as below). Looks like not a bad system, all stainless including the springs,collets and clamps ;) The link pipe is 64mm diam and the headers are 35mm diam, so not a performance system, but a good replacement. Haven't fired up the engine yet, so will update performance and jetting etc as and when. Hope to get an end can from the Bay, so will put pic of that when it gets here and I have fitted it :)

Mmmm very nice.

I've get older GS1000/GSX forks to handle better before, by putting progressive fork springs in a steering dampner and fork brace and that makes them handle better.

Yes, as these parts get more bust and get rarer we know we can get them fixed

Yeah, yeah, yeah LOL

Nice. :)

I've herd gsx250/400 twin fit.

Just had a look on some B6 mk1 clocks I have and the red line is 12000 rpm, I think the 1100 slabbys rev to 10500 or 11000 rpm at max

I could always see him.

Now that looks like some of my old bikes and most proably handles better. LOL

Been told that the GS750 gear box has a smaller 1and 2 gears so you get more acceleration and the top gears 3,4 and 5 are the same as the GS1000 so you don't lose top end. I got a GS750 gear box and counted the teeth on all gears and they are the same as the GS1000 gear box. So is it me or are both gear boxes the same? Anybody know for sure or was it a one-off model of 750?

As fare as I know the bolt holes on the GS850/1000 and the GSX1100et are the same. but I think any of the late 70's and early 80's Suzi rear calipers will interchange.

Was the motor left with oil in it and has it been turned over over the years? The worst you may find when you start it is that the valve seals have dried up and let some oil in the cylinders, but if it was me, I'd just get the project done and then see how the motor runs. You can always sort the motor out later.

Not a good pic but this is where I put my oilcooler Using a 19 row 330mm width oilcooler.

Anything can be done, it's not what you know but who you know to do the job some times

Yes I kept it from the old site ;)

I've got some GSXR1000k2 Ti headers on my gsxr engine Kat, as been seid a bit of brute force and there on and they are very light and sound well with the GP end can.

Nice. ;)

Hows this? Or this is what I did with my Kat with gsx1100f motor But I did move the rear bottom engine mount. Hope this helps.

Ok, had a bit of a look/rummage around the shed and found some over cam cap in a box with some numbers on the box, then the gray matter kicked in and I'd put the wroung cam caps with the wroung head. Oooops :)

Bit of a weird one that I have never had before. I've put some GS750 cams (well bought as 750 cams ) and put them in the GS1000 motor that I was building out of bits ;) and when I tightened the exhaust cam caps the motor would not turn over by hand; slackened the cam caps off and the engine turns over. The caps that I was using were bought as GS1000 cam caps but bought on their own witout engine or cams (but yes, they were put onto the head in the right places). So I've put some other cam caps in (GS1000, from another spare engine) and all works fine, all nice and smooth. The reason I've used GS750 cams is because I've been told from a U.S. site you may know that the 750 cams allows the GS1000 motors to rev quicker, so I thought I'd give it a go (why not, LOL). Any ideas? Anyone had this before? Bit worried to start up the new engine, just in case there's something odd about the cams or caps, though I can't see anything (except one of the exhaust cams is a bit scored at one side, otherwise looks pretty new).