Swiss Toni

Got new stem made (longer than std. M). Harris supplied bearing, can't remember if it was top or bottom. Not special size bearing, Harris just ream out to match. In my case it was 52mm OD - 30mm ID @‌ £18 plus vat. That was 2006 price.

Another one.

This is mine with 750M forks. Was going to fit ZX9R, but they were shorter again. Massive stanchions 'tho! Ignore the at tank,. Got rid or it ages ago for a Mag 4 one!

Looks good, John! You don't half like your projects, don't you!

Thing is...I'm sure I have either an EFE of 1100 Teapot calliper somewhere! If I can find it, I'll offer it up to the B12 disc/hanger and see if it centres up.

If you've used heat already...the seals are toast! Continue with heat, and touch kids birthday cake candle to nipple threads. Wax (paraffin) will wick down the thread and free it off. Very rarely fails. In the unfortunate event you snap the bleed nipple off...all is not lost! Someone used to sell banjo bolts with a bleed nipple in the top. Can't remember who, 'tho! I would think anyone who supplies hoses/bolts?

Nah Lads...3 different part no's on Alpha!

'Fat Finger' syndrome, old chap!

Anyone know if 1150 EF, 1100 Teapot and 1100 Mk1 B12 are same calipers???

Must be great to open the garage door in the morning and see that lot! Spoilt for choice. Lucky bastard! And no...I'm NOT jealous!...much!

I'd stick with the std. Suzuki plates if I was you. Really can't get better! Expensive...but worth it! I'd also keep the spacers alloy! Filing the slots in the drum, (within reason) is ok. Stack your plain plates in a pile to check for warpage.

He's right! Had a H*nda 750, and the clutch used to rattle like a bastard until the carbs were balanced.

Done that for years! Never had any bother with the clutch at all! You're better off if you can find a piece of 'o ring' stock, because if you cut a piece out of an existing ring, it always seems to have a very slight bend in it!

Lovely clean looking bike! Take you wherever you want to go...and back again!

If you want to keep it 'Old Skool', use the Slab motor. If you're going to screw the arse off it...use the B12. Not saying Slabbie motors aren't fast (before I get flamed), just Bandit motors are a lot younger, and being so...less fatigued! Only bugbear is the clutch and, as YJ says, easily converted! Your choice!

Nowt wrong with an EZ! That's next on the list. If you don't fancy it, PM me the guys number?

Naaaah! Bastard of a job! Nightmare!! Impossible!!! I'll do you a favour and take the wheels off your hands! Just get stuck in. What's the worst that can happen? Someone will be along in a minute and tell you all about it!

He's right, you know! That's why CV's won't 'choke' when you whip the throttle open, whereas others (VM's and Flatslides), will!

Makes sense! Cheers Ted.

I've taken the drivebox off the kph speedo on the 750F Slabbie. I've put it on an mph speedo, which came without a drivebox. Will the mph speedo read true or not?

Date of registration has nothing at all with what model it is. Many motorcycles were bad sellers, so stood on showroom floors for years. Some sold were a couple of years old.....but registered as new.

Now why didn't I think of that! The top lip is to stop the wheel spindle from turning. Cheers, Cap'n!

These are from B12 (Mk 1 or 2) ? The arm, when I can remember where it is, will be going on the ET. What I want to know is, as you'll see in the 'photo's, both are different. Which goes where, ie; disc side, sprkt. side?

You can cut/channel the frame near the sw. arm pivot, like Strangwayz did to Porkys Kat. But...it's an awful lot of work. Whether it's worth it in the long run, is up to you!

Was going to suggest hydraulic lock, but I see you've covered that!