Swiss Toni
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Posts posted by Swiss Toni
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2 hours ago, Rijko said:
That is true if it has an aftermarket shim under bucket setup, but a standard GS1000 has shims that can be removed without removing the cams.
Fact! There's an OE tool, much like a C spanner, that goes under the cam and locates on the edge of the follower. on rotating the handle of the too towards the head surface, the follower is depressed enough to remove, measure and replace the shim.
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There'll be some tongues hanging out when they see this! Welcome to OSS, Paul!
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Both now residing in a cup full of release oil. Time will tell.
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Ultrasonic didn’t work. Stripped pre-load and rebound from top nut. I’ll drop them in some release all or some such, and see what happens.
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Well, @DezzaI’m a bit further along now, but it still doesn’t look promising. Called Robinsons this am, and both rebound and compression adjusters NLA.
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@Lachie04I’ll give the Ultrasonic a go first. Then a bit heat, if that doesn’t work. I like your solution though!
The rebound adjusters are still available in the US, don’t know about here. Not so, the compression ones. NLA! About time the Suzuki Vintage Parts scheme got their finger out?
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@E TThanks for the offer! I’ll see what I can turn up here first, if I wreck them.
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@Upshotknothole it’s listed in the US as $30. I shudder to think what we’ve got to stump up!
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I’ve ‘aquired’ a set of what I believe are 750 J/K or L forks. I’ve freed off all the pre-load and compression adjusters, but the rebound adj. on the top fork nut is solid! By the state it’s in, it’s been that way for a while. It’s mullered, and I might be wrong, but it looks as if it brass. The slot’s just about had it, so I don’t want to put an excessive amount of weight on it. Any ideas how to get it moving, or out altogether?
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Might be worth checking the clutch centre nut’s still tight and tabbed up.
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@ralNowt int manual. PDF emailed.
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The air gap is fixed. It can’t be adjusted. Rotor is fixed to crank, stator to case. No facility to adjust. Nothing you can slot. I’ll have a look in the OE manual for you when I sort your wiring diag. out.
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Can’t understand that! It should only move positively when it rotates on the clutch pressure plate pinion, pulling the pressure plate towards the clutch outer cover. In so doing, relieving the weight on the clutch plates. So under tension all the time. NO ‘flopping about’. It is the correct pressure plate pinion? And, as duckndive says, did you re-fit the spring spacers? There’s something wrong that’s not right!
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The splines on the operating shaft in the clutch centre need to be facing the rear of the engine. To make things easier, take the operating arm off the clutch cover. Offer the cover up to the engine, turning the splined shaft on the cover until the cover is home. Replace cover bolts. Replace arm … and Robert’s your Mothers Brother!
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Cheers, Gents!
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@fatblokeonbanditAnd what about the Slingy motor? Will the carbs be a problem?
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@fatblokeonbanditWill the 1100 Teapot engine go straight into the Mk1 B6 engine mounts? Alternatively, will a 750 Slingshot motor do likewise? No carb/frame problems with the Dot head?
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And very nice she is too! Welcome!
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There you go, then. Piece of piss! Told ya!
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5 hours ago, Suzukisam77 said:
I’m just finding it hard to believe they would get that way after 23000 miles?
Not so unusual. I’ve got an engine with 18k on it, and the bores have only .0015” to go!
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Just a thought … you did fit the rings the right way up, didn’t you?
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Once you get a bit of movement, the battle’s won.
Give it a go.
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Put a big screwdriver down the tube, and start levering it carefully in all directions. Clean the holes in the case out carefully (stuff some rag in first) use only genuine Suzuki o rings, put a dab of grease on them before fitting. And welcome.
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Rings
in Oil Cooled
No leads???
gs1000 front brake reservoir
in Air Cooled
Posted
Keep filling it up with boiling water. It should break free ok.