-
Posts
1,922 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Joseph
-
-
18 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said:
If you search, someone on here was selling lower bolt on brackets for fitting busa arms, they work with the K arms as well. Measurements should still be on here too. They bolt to where the exhaust hanger attaches to the frame below where the stock linkage attaches.
Available through @Danm54but last i heard a friend who inquired was told that they're out of stock at the moment ?
Excellent stuff though
- 1
-
-
Even if the spacing is the same it is unlikely that the third point of the triangle will match that, so the footpeg may not end up at the height you need
The OC rear set frame mounts are almost on a vertical line, but the WC mounts are on a really slanted angle
-
3 minutes ago, Truls said:
Yeah but that Was in june!
I'm not a doctor
-
-
Update
Put some dowty seals on as advised by @TonyGeeand some fuel in.
The tank isn't back on the bike because i still have to fiddle with the carbs, but i've propped it so the fuel in resting in the petcock corner, and so far no leaks
- 4
-
Just now, Gixer1460 said:
Sounds about right without digging it out.
Thanks. Yes no need to go looking for it
-
Simple tap and screw in jobbie
-
I had a few alloy plates laser cut but no stock and i didn't think i could market it anyway
7/11 non turbo ?
I use this setup on my 1216cc with RS38 and there is no running issues at all.
Obviously no reserve function, but i just refuel every 250km and thats never been a problem
-
Aaah thats the problem.
It's not a fancy CNCed plate where i could use an OE gasket in a nice groove, so i use an anonymous sheet of rubber i had in a box of stuff, and cut bits off that
Unfortunately i don't know what compound it is, but it must be a some kind of something fuel compatible ?
If you can score some then it's just Stanley knife and hole punch time and you'll be good to go, well cheap and bulletproof mod
- 1
-
Interesting kit.
Do you remember the approximate diameter of the outer pump gear ?
If its all to scale and thats M10 it looks like a mere 22-25mm ?
That said what quantity of oil is expected to be shifted by a turbo scavenge pump ?
-
Total cost around 10€
- 1
-
-
9 minutes ago, KennyKak said:
I think I'm gonna do both. I have a K1 750 that's more or less identical that I can some how get some measurements off and get it as close as possible.
Just waiting for the father inlaw to come back off holiday to turn up 2 swingarm bushes to fit the slingshot swingarm spindle. (From 30mm to 20mm if I remember right)
I think you'll find that the slingshot bushes will slip into the K bushes which avoids machining stuff or waiting for inlaws
-
-
44 minutes ago, Graeme said:
Thanks.
Slingshot is 225mm right?
I'd assume the later vfr750 would be easier then, assuming it's width is centered in the frame.
Gsxr k4/5 is 225mm too I believe.
60mm out of the triumph is a fair bit! I guess it's a hollow casting with a tube welded in so would need cutting, ends plating, tube 're welding, making sure everything stays lined up.
Yeah 225 or 227, all OC/WC arms swap over.
Bear in mind that if it is possible to cut down the pivot width, the hollow casting/body of the arm is approximately the same width so potential issues there to cut/reshape/weld metal in, and depending on how it's built initially...
I'd go with an arm thats been done already and use that, at least you're sure to get the mod finished rather than mess around trying to be a pioneer and get stuck and pissed off
-
Here's a detailed how to :
here are a few swingarm widths :
Ducati 748/916/996/998 - 243mm
VFR750 (1990-93) - 242mm
VFR750 (1994-97) - 227mm
VFR400 - 192mm
RVR400 - 202mm
Hawk NT650 - 235mm
RC30 - 235mm
RC45 - 250mm
MV Agusta F4 - 255mm
1050 speed triple – 283mm
- 2
-
-
-
Right ! Thats large compared to a 2 inch intake ? Not that i know anything about this
What does your plenum look like ? What kind of space do you have to play with
-
No drawings
Interested in what you find out. Also whats the general diameter idea on these ?
-
Thanks for the tip.
I'll leave it for the time being, i'm hoping that if you haven't needed to address that part i may not have to
-
To do that same job I used an old soldering iron to heat up the thread of the screws Without flaming up the surroundings
Switch on to top heat, and prop the Iron so the tip is rested in the screw print.
You can leave it as long as you like, but a good 10-15min worked wonders on my engine
- 3
-
If it's been sat that long and hardly ridden overall, you'll probably want to change more than the fork oil, those seals will no doubt be on their way out soon if you put them back in motion ?
Such a cool bike though thats a nice project to enjoy
- 1
74mm Rear Set Match
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
Posted
Oh, and it looks like WC spacing is 72mm on the frame i've got ?