Joseph
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Posts posted by Joseph
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No drawings
Interested in what you find out. Also whats the general diameter idea on these ?
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Thanks for the tip.
I'll leave it for the time being, i'm hoping that if you haven't needed to address that part i may not have to
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To do that same job I used an old soldering iron to heat up the thread of the screws Without flaming up the surroundings
Switch on to top heat, and prop the Iron so the tip is rested in the screw print.
You can leave it as long as you like, but a good 10-15min worked wonders on my engine
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If it's been sat that long and hardly ridden overall, you'll probably want to change more than the fork oil, those seals will no doubt be on their way out soon if you put them back in motion ?
Such a cool bike though thats a nice project to enjoy
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45 hp and 30 Nm less on a Bandit, peak torque and power is 1000-1500 lower down on the 1200 though
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Bandit 1200 and GSXR 1100 have the tall one
750s have the slim one
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23 minutes ago, simesman said:
Are you sure you have the right tap? Check mounting hole spacing. My GS1000 did exactly the same and dowty washers/sealant did not help. Turned out I had a 50mm tap instead of 44mm (or other way round!) and previous owner had opened up the mounting holes to the tap so it fitted. All sorted when I matched the tap to the threads.
Hi
I definitely do have the correct item i bought an OEM tap brand new from Cmsnl
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1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
like I said Joseph, Ive had good results with Dowty seals
Yes i've located some i'll give them a go.
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No worries. Valid inputs anyway
The parts fiche doesn't show them, but maybe using a metal washer on top of the fiber/seal washer could help even distribution and squish it nicely ?
One thing that rubs me the wrong way is having spent all that time money and energy on rebuilding a bike as clean as this to be pissed around and not being able to use it potentially because of 2p worth of washers
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115 main jet sounds small ? Although that wont affect idle
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Indeed
- tank was sealed before paint
- seal between tank and tap is brand new Suzuki OEM
- tap is recent, can't see it leaking from the body itself although once the fuel is weeping slightly the tap is all wet on the underside
I'll investigate the washer setup
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Yeah the thing is i forgot them first time round (years since i took this bike to bits)
So putting them on after the first spilling i though it would be fixed.
But nope
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Hi
Onto the teething problems of the newly rebuilt GSX1100
The fuel tap is leaking fuel, seeping out
The tap itself i renewed prior to taking the bike apart, so it is secondhand but a genuine suzuki item
Seal is new
I initially forgot to fit the sealing washers under the sacrements
But now that i have my problem remains
It still looks like fuel is seeping down the screw threads, its not pouring out but obviously no tolerance is possible here
Is there a trick i can use ? Thread sealing product ? Teflon ?
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Well thats good 'cause i've scored the web and nobody has the size required (8x11.5x2.5)
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Meanwhile, the carbs getting renewed
That main jet is probably going to be obsolete though
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Maybe uprated slabside 1100 clutch springs could help a bit ?
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Also the trumpets will be 20mm high in the plenum, and i calculated 6500cc internal volume for it. Sounds good ?
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Right
I'm back at this.
I've worked out what needed doing to respace the carburetors, and the bits are currently being machined by the guy who does that for me cause lets face it even if i did have the tools to do it...
I've chosen mk2 bandit 36mm carbs, because the intake side is round, not oval like on the mk1, seemed more sensible since i'm plugging silicon hoses onto them.
As far as spacing goes, it turns out that when fitting onto straight intake spigots, you can get away with only spacing carb 2 and 3 further apart.
1-2 and 3-4 have 2mm more on the Bandit rack so i should be able to squeeze them onto the spigots
They've been taken apart and had a noisy bath, so they're now relatively clean, waiting on the rebuild kits and larger main jets
One question i have for you is :
While we're at it, I think it would be worthwhile renewing the butterfly shaft O rings, since this rack is getting pressurized ?
Is this what you all do and also, is it a prudent job to undertake ?
I've also cut down the alloy trumpets i had for another project, and the 8 machined spigots for the plenum and intakes are on order too.
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56 minutes ago, gsx said:
Nice one ,I'll cut one down , ruined a perfectly good screwdriver for other pushrod , same diameter
Haha. Yeah i did the same.
I have a GSXF 1100 with 750 box and slabside clutch with mk2 bandit sprocket cover, it took a bit of testing but ended up being the 101.5 rod.
GSXFs and Bandits, 7R and slabside 11 use a 92mm, so no idea why i didn't need that one, however, After much testing it it is clear that the total length of the whole system including disc stack height needs to be spot on
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101.5mm is the length of the rod on the last of the 1127R (91-92)
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@gsxwhat engine and year is this you're trying to set up ?
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5 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
I can’t remember exactly but the push rod length isn’t 100 mm in a bamdit!
80 mm rings a bell somewher
I’m on hols atm but can check when I get home
92 mm on B12 B6
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4 hours ago, TonyGee said:
Its funny how most people call's them an ET no matter what year they are.
I tried to find a pic of the last model with the round clocks and headlight but coudn't find one !!!! i do have a pic or 2 but they are on my other (broken) laptop 
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Pitot tubes
in Forced Induction
Posted
Right ! Thats large compared to a 2 inch intake ? Not that i know anything about this
What does your plenum look like ? What kind of space do you have to play with