Joseph
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Posts posted by Joseph
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Yes. You have to file the two tall mounting planes down on the underside of the yoke for the lock to line up to the surface, and on the K yokes with offset igntion (K7-K8) the steering lock obviously won't line up. The K5 i think is central igntion but i have only used 7-8 on my builds so cannot comment on lock function
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On 7/29/2023 at 11:11 PM, ral said:
Thing is lithium batteries are very susceptible to overcharging, 14.4v is considered to be the top of the range on a 12v battery, some regulator rectifier’s charge over 14.4v, it’s this overcharge that gives concerns, also some chargers/ battery tenders for example will switch to DESULPHATE mode on a low voltage battery, this will generally charge at a rate above the 14.4 top end for a period of time, this can cook lithium batteries.
I for one will not be using lithium on older bikes systems that are not designed for lithium batteries.
If your going to use lithium I would recommend that the correct charger is used, and check your charging system is not delivering over 14.4v
Daily used mine all year round all weather all seasons with no issues, the batteries are both now over 5 years old and have been handed down and used on the following bikes i've owned
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14mm
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Carb Spigot OD :
BST34 : 40mm
BST36 : 42mm
BST38 and BST40 : 46mm
The boots themselves are slightly smaller in ID than the carb spigots, so if you're building plugs you need to match the carb spigot OD ?
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6 hours ago, DAZ said:
The additional compression and better flow would wake it up for sure
So basically on a Bandit engine a dot head could be excellent
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On each of my 40 year old GSX bikes the first thing i had to do every time was replace the burnt out stator
Once that was done i fitted a cheap second hand Yamaha R1 (and many others) reg/rec : MOSFET FH012AA or FH020AA, along with a Lithium battery
The result was a stable 14.5V charge rate regardless of engine rpm, and alledgedly it ensures lower running engine heat.
Eitherway, you'll have no problems running a battery like you're planning on yours, like said above, if the wiring and charging system is in good nick. I would advise using that modern reg though, but no need to buy that fancy one you mentioned
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On 7/23/2023 at 6:48 AM, BoostedRooster712 said:
RS38s fall out of them, not even close unfortunately.
Would make sense since RS36 and RS38 share the same body ODs and same body ODs as BST36 : 42mm spigot
On 7/23/2023 at 12:57 PM, Captain Chaos said:BST40 iirc
Eitherway, BST38 and 40 share the same body ODs. Both with a 46mm spigot :
38 :
40 :
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Spirited road riding would probably point towards using the smaller ones ?
It does sound like quite the engine though
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All that looks ace
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1 hour ago, dupersunc said:
The Motion Pro set-up is aweful in my opinion. Way to much travel required to get full throttle.
Yep I found it vastly disappointing too. Very ropey action too. Definitely made in China low quality equipment style
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38 minutes ago, DAZ said:
Thanks for clearing that up @Dezza,strange but wonderful that they offer the same size (34mm RS) carb with 3 different spigot sizes in this age of rationalisation it's so good that a company is still offering choice over a one size fits all approach
Indeed, but that said, the inlet spigot spacing on oil cooled engines still clocks in at 78-90-78 so for some reason Mikuni provides them slightly off
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16 minutes ago, george 1100 said:
I contemplated converting mine to side pull just for ease but not sure if it will fit. At the moment the centre pull cables interfere with the oil take off bar at the rear of the valve cover
Got a pic ?
Edit : found a pic
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13 hours ago, DAZ said:
Hi Mutley ,welcome aboard if you are buying your rs carbs new then have a look @Dezzasticky about inlet rubbers as it says 34/36/38 rs carbs all share the same size 42mm
They dont.
Rs 34 are the same physical size as BST34, so they use those factory inlets (40mm spigots)
Rs 36 and 38 are the same physical size as BST36, with a 42mm spigot so they can use those inlets
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Indeed you must not use inline car type filters on gravity fed systems
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Well the issue is always coming up isn't it, they are just not durable.
i've given up on any type of tank fitted tap, i use a brass spigot off the tank with an inline tap on the hose. Can't go wrong
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Whats the engine/carb spec ?
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The manual says the turning circle of a slingshot is 6.4m
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22 hours ago, davecara said:
Yes please mate, I want to run K8 set up in a slabby with a metmachex slingshot arm
20 hours ago, recardo said:+1 I've got a Metmachex arm for a 750L and looking to fit 750K2 or K3 rear wheel
PM me your email addresses and i'll get it together with some info. I need to think about some of it, it's been a while
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I fitted the whole package on an '89 arm.
All slingshot an W swingarms are the same at pivot and spindle area.
I did on a WC but do not have the spacer dimensions anymore, but here are a few tips :
- You need to machine the sprocket carrier down, basically down to the bearing, removing the shoulder where the seal goes.
- the sprocket studs need removing and replaced by low head screws, because the studs will fowl the chain tensioner bracket
- spacer on the sprocket side, between the arm and sprocket carrier is around 9mm IIRC
This is the arm i built with provision to use the K7 caliper carrier :
I do have all the spacer details for this setup if you wanted to go down that route and update the rear caliper
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Right so for once it may be as simple as that. Would make a change
Thanks to all
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Right i'll give it a go.
This is for my main ride so it'll be getting mileage
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15 minutes ago, clivegto said:
I used sleeves on 20mm wheel spindle in a JMC swinging arm with a MK1 busa back wheel.
Right so that means a 4mm wall spacer through the wheel ?
I'm just thinking that a 1mm wall tube may prove problematic ?
slingy ignition fit to newer K series yokes
in Oil Cooled
Posted
It is indeed a K7 600 fork, so yep
The raisers and bars i used here were from LSL