arnout

..you have a good memory! Yes, I faced the same problem with cracked plastic slides (later RS carbs were upgraded with aluminium slides) and found it impossible to locate replacements at the time.. So I decided to try and repair the slides in my very worn set of RS36 carbs by removing the whole side of the slide that had snapped and sticking a stainless steel plate in its place.. 2 screws and epoxy glue keep the new bit attached.. Did all 4 slides as a precaution (only 2 were snapped)..It is a bit of a botch job, but to my own surprise it has held up over the years and still use these carbs on my Kat.. The plate I used was slightly thicker than the original part to account for the worn out slide grooves inside the carb body.. Nowadays the availability of the uprated aluminium slides has improved a lot though, so today I'd probably just buy these.. (quite pricey though..) http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/shop/ have these for sale in their webshop (just 1 left?) -> throttle valve RS36

I checked the manual, but can't find any spec on it or how to measure it.. (there is a method described for checking the big end bearings however...) For me the oiled roller bearings shouldn't have any noticeable radial play when you're trying to move them up and down.. Apart from that also check for any sign of notchiness on each bearing by gently and slowly spinning with your finger tips..

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the stuff so couldn't say for sure, but any regular somewhat decent looking silicone engine sealant sold in automotive shops *should* probably work just fine.. (I'll bet most is the same stuff sold to brands that label it as their own..) Check the spec on the tube: temp. rating, oil resistance, applications, etc.. Or in severe doubt try the stuff on something else first.. (Oh btw, forgot to mention the possible use of copper sprays for use on copper head gaskets instead of silicone sealant..)

Well.. A GSX engine will run without a problem with all sorts of things and adjustments somewhere in the ballpark.. The way the bikes once left the factory was often also far from optimal using tolerances that would be unacceptable today.. Now you have the engine apart you are offered the chance to improve the stock setup by tweaking and modifying specific areas.. Doing is not "necessary" at all, but all tweaking will add up and pay off in extra power that is pretty cheap compared to buying bolt on performance parts.. Just Google Wiseco base gasket, or try http://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/spares/base-gaskets/148/ or contact Debben or any other tuning (web)shop.. Or just make your own base gasket.. Stock EFE base gaskets are pretty good btw (fits earlier engines too) And yes, you can stack gaskets if necessary.. Like Gixer1460 stated, don't use the stock paper base gaskets..

I always use the narrow type (9mm or less) stainless clamps that fit into recesses of the manifolds nicely.. Clamps from Norma are particularly nice because of their radiused edges that prevent cutting into the rubber.. But as always take care not to over tighten the clamps.. (just nip up, keep as loose as possible).. And support the set of carbs with zipties or whatever from the frame tubes above..

What type of Cometic head gasket? MLS, CFM or copper? The MLS (multi-layer steel) is rubber coated so is installed dry, the CFM-20 (sometimes incorrectly referred to as "graphite") and copper head gaskets need to be installed using (silicone) sealant at the positions where engine oil is supposed to be stopped.. So light smears around the oil/stud bores on either side, and a smear all around the cam chain tunnel.. On both sides of the gasket of course (or apply on the head and block)..

That is really strange that the manifold rubbers have split.. I have used new ones in the past before on both my bikes, and they are still like new today.. I can only assume Suzuki must have changed something in the manufacturing recently, maybe the type of rubber? Maybe it isn't ethanol resistant anymore? I'd certainly contact the dealer you bought the rubbers from, not just for the refund but to find out if Suzuki have indeed altered the type of rubber. I've never been in favour of using anything other than (modified) stock manifolds. Some like the silicon Samco hose though, but these create steps in the intake tract. If that doesn bother you, it might be the solution for you. Else try locating NOS manifolds..

Same gears (and partno.'s) on the GSX750.. GSX750 1980-1983 - GS750 1977-1979 : GEAR, OIL PUMP DRIVEN (NT:29) 16331-45000 GEAR, OIL PUMP DRIVE (NT:38) 16321-45002 The price of these genuine parts from Suzuki have gone through the roof these last few years, so it might even be more cost effective to buy a complete 750 engine just for the gears..!

Steel round tube swingarm on the 750 ! (sorry, working on the 50 posts count..)

Yup.. From what I've undertood about GSX cylinder heads is that the exhaust ports are difficult to improve (so leave as is), but the intake ports have many steps that can be removed with simple "hobby" tools to improve the flow.. Especially the transitions between the carbs and the ports are quite rough.. In part this has to do with the stock shape of the rubber manifolds that poorly line up with parts on either side.. But before modifying these (sanding drum bit on dremel) address the shape and location of the intake port first.. 99% of the case these are not concentric to the outside surface.. By scribing a concentric circle onto the protruding edge you have a guide for modifying the port.. (maintain a slight taper inwards). Copy the same circle to the rest of the ports trying to match the modified port.. With the new shape of the ports you have something to match the manifolds to.. (Repeat the shape matching with other ends of the rubbers fitted to the carbs, and then blend in the inner part for a smooth transition..) There may still be slight differences between the various rubbers (some ports are still a bit offset) so keep each manifold dedicated to each intake by marking them with the specific cyl. no. (using a white wall pen).. Oh.. If you don't have a separate cylinder head to work with you may try your luck on a fitted head after stuffing the ports with rags as tightly as possible.. (use a vacuum cleaner to suck the swarf out before removing the rags after the work has been done.. Oh.. AFAIK the stock gearbox is already undercut (but perhaps not on all dogs).. 750 ratio oil pump gears are advisable when using hotter than stock cams and springs (because of the extra strain on these parts), but not needed using stock cams/springs and if the lubrication circuit isn't blocked anywhere and a decent type of engine oil is used.. (The cams in the EFE engine in my Kat look terrible, but by using expensive syth. oil further deterioration seems to have stopped..) Oh.. Always do a dry build (no rings) when fitting new pistons so you can determine the squish (piston deck to cyl. head surface clearance).. Using a different thickness base gasket is the easiest way to alter it.. (don't forget to include the head gasket thickness).. A small squish dimension makes for a stronger "swirl effect" and so better mixing of fuel and air and so better burn and efficiency.. Aim for 1.0 - 0.8 mm.. (Found in practice 0.6mm squish results in parts making contact..) Oh.. Check the weight differences of the pistons as pistons in kits can vary considerable..! Making them equal would result in a smoother running engine (less vibes).. Some say getting under a 1 gram difference is vital, but I think 2 gram is good enough.. Don't forget the gudgeon pins! You can use possible weight difference here to compensate in part the difference with the pistons.. Removing aluminium from the bottom of the crown is how to equalize the piston weight..

Sounds pretty quiet for a GSX to me!

Well.. That should tell you enough.. Obviously with only having the one coil fully connected that would make sparks impossible.. The other coil should produce sparks though.. Check the wiring connections between parts with a multimeter and reinstall the missing coil wire.. Turn on ignition and check for power on one of the wires (normally orange +white tracer) of each coil.. Also..

"Forever" if you do it right.. What paint did you use? Preparation is the most important part of spray painting though.. Even the best heat/chemical resistant paint will flake off without sufficient prep.. Well.. Painting aircooled engines is a bitch really because of all the cooling fins and hard to sand/clean/spray areas, so having it media/vapour/soda blasted would probably give you the best chances of reaching all spots for a decent prep.. (Plug ALL holes/gaps/openings!!) I have mostly sanded engines by hand though and still was able to do a decent paint job, but it takes a lot of time.. Degreasing is vital, primer might not be necessary though (depending on the type of paint used) As for using spray cans: VHT engine paint is very good and last well.. (sprays very thick, so coverage is excellent, but laying down initial misting coats is near impossible) Motip/Dupli engine paint is cheap, but surprisingly good.. (poor fuel/chemical resistance though.. sprays thin, which makes it really controllable..) Curing is best done in an oven, but since a full engine won't fit into a standard sized one, the curing process needs to be done during riding the bike.. This can take quite some time as some parts never reach the oven temps.. Mind the paint still being soft and easy to scratch at this point when fitting the engine back into the frame..

For a swap to 530 choose the front sprocket as large as possible (as already Pedda suggested).. Also I always found the stock gearing way too low (lots of shifting for city riding and revving the nuts off on the motorway.. I'm using a pretty tall 17/43 in combination with an 18" wheel on both my Kat (EFE engine) and my 1327 EFE..This makes for an improbable 286 kph top speed, but offers actual usability of the gearbox rather than having it in 5th gear most of the time..

Well.. dunno about everyones, but my method is just eyeballing the butterfly valve position in relation to the pin holes in the venturi (CV carbs), or comparing the slide heights by sticking a drill bit underneath (flatslide carbs..)

Looks like regular '80-'83 GSX1100 carbs to me (Mikuni BS34SS).. Also fitted to both the 750 and 1100 Katana's..

AFAIK engines of oldskool Suzukis were the same the world over (except maybe for the Japanese home market) until about '84 - '85 when the self-imposed power limitation turned up it ugly head and (at least in Europe) and different engine configurations for specific countries were issued.. Emission regulations weren't cooked up until around '88 (I think?).. Especially for bikes sold in California special model versions were made to comply with their stricter laws.. So.. For the earlier GSX 750 the differences are only in the wiring (US: running lights, UK: wrong direction headlamp), the type of tank fitted (US: small, UK/NL: large), model designation (US sticking to the older "GS" name for the 16v bikes), the KPH or MPH clocks, and perhaps the paint schemes.. But maybe I'm wrong, and somebody will surely correct me..

Hmm.. It seems there is some sort of pic-leeching control installed on the warpspeed website.. Maybe this will work..

Uhmm.. Post an ad on this forum? It does however require a min. post count of 50 to gain access to that section (which I don't have either) :-/

Have a look at the topic you opened specifically for the "battery-killing".. I reckon there is no drain, the battery simply gets a beating from the poor charging circuit.. Compare the multimeter readings at tickover and over 5000 rpm.. That should demonstrate the problem..

Some say there are gains to be had from a swap.. The Mikuni BST series is a step up from the BS series fitted as stock on many GSX's.. I've used BST36ss and BST38 carbs on my GSX's (before switching over to flatslides), and they do offer better performance and response once setup properly.. So you will need to have/get the carbs adjusted (not just rejetting).. Preferably on a dyno by a reputably operator.. Long story short: GSX-R/Bandit carbs will offer better performance, BUT they need proper setting up to actually reap the benefits from a swap.. But do post your findings here like wraith suggested, so we can actually see some true data ron the supposedly better performance of the later type carbs..

NLenton isn't very forthcoming with revealing the nature of the ailment in this topic, but earlier he started this battery-killer-topic which probably tells the story..

As Jonboy mentioned in another topic undoing the stock wiring of 3rd phase 80VAC running through the light switch on the handle bars by bypassing it and connecting it to the regulator the same way as other 2 phases, will help a lot too in preventing the risk of the alternator and/or regulator getting fried. It really is a simple and straightforward mod.. So "matter of fact" that I forgot to mention it myself earlier..

Valve springs from APE come in 2 flavors.. There's the VS1100S type and the VS1100pro (for really aggressive cams).. I reckon the "pro" type are a lot stiffer and so would result in more wear..