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Gixer1460

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Posts posted by Gixer1460

    Undercut gearbox

    in Forced Induction

    Posted

    6 hours ago, Reinhoud said:

    Thanks, I had a DR500 from 1981, worked up to about 55HP, I needed another gearbox about every year, one mis shift was usuallu enough to stuff it up.. That's why I'm a bit insecure about it..

    If it makes you feel better, my 1460 GSXR is still using a std cut 'M' gearset!

    Katana 1170 et bike racer

    in OSS Racers

    Posted

    Yeah I can see the problem! I know the ACU make the lanyard kill EVERYTHING electrical - we used to just kill the electrics to the ignition ie. to kill the engine but fuel pumps and nitrous caused issues - can't imagine why LOL!

    You'll have to seperate the general electrics from the starter electrics. The general electrics will be switched 'on' via a normal 30 amp relay and the lanyard. Looking at the relay terminals you have 85, 86, 87 and 30 and these will be connected as follows, 30 - 30 amp rated cable to battery, 85 - to chassis / battery negative via the lanyard,  86 - 12v feed from battery and 87 - feed to general electrics via fuse box (ignition, fuel pump, nitrous etc)

    As regards the starter i'm assuming you have a push button to spin the starter? If so, you take a wire from the ign. feed to the kill switch and from the other side down to the ign. ecu and the coils. Also from this side (usually internal to the switch) is a feed to one side of the starter button, the other runs down to a specific starter solenoid (a type of relay). Starter solenoids are earthed via their metal mounting to the chassis. The starter solenoid will have two big screwed connections - one side goes to battery and the other goes to the starter motor - both in heavy gauge cable 150+ Amp rated.

    Lots of words but it is quite simple.................really LOL!

    Big bore gsxr & clutch

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    Clutches 1052 / 1127 are essentially the same parts although the later 1127 changed their springs to diaphragm type (and the primary gears are different). They are both capable units and can withhold upto 160-180hp N/A hp............ Turbo torque does them in at much lower hp in my experience. If N/A and application as described, some HD springs should cope - racers like the 4 coil spring type clutch from the 1052 motors as it is more 'tunable' but both will work. If a turbo was fitted then a lock-up is almost mandatory but you may have to cut holes in that nice fairing to accommodate LOL!

    Katana 1170 et bike racer

    in OSS Racers

    Posted

    8 hours ago, et1170 said:

    Big amp cables and relay need fitting, not sure how? 

    What do you need to know - if you;ve got the parts, I can explain the method - its not difficult.

    Good first outing - watching the video I thought you jumped but just excellent RT! Well done on the Round Win.

    Bugger.................

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Buzuki said:

    That blown oil-pump , maybe oil pressure regulator did not open from some reason and than generated excessive oil pressure caused pump to explode .

    Surely impossible as the pressure size isn't a closed system - the regulator only bleeds off excess pressure doesn't hold it / back it up completely plus there would be other instant damage to bearings / cams etc with no oil flow?

    Gsxr 1100 M reduce effect Question

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    27 minutes ago, davecara said:

    PAIR system? Hasn’t got a blandit engine and carbs has it?

    That would explain an awful lot! So possibly although the papers say one thing, a previous owner has fitted an alternative engine that looks identical to the original - and if it pulls as you say this is a likely scenario! If you can lift the cam cover to see the cam lobes and cam chain type will give a definitive answer. Also see what the capacity marking on the back of the barrels will give it away - 1127 / 1157? Grey or Black engine colour?

    Gsxr 1100 M reduce effect Question

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted · Edited by Gixer1460

    That equals about 84hp ! ! !  That's about 40 - 50hp down on the 'full fat' versions!

    36mm carbs will happily support 145hp so unless they have the restricted lift tops and severe down jetting - its not there. Exhausts can be restricted - washers or other baffles to make back pressure. Ignition mapping could have been played with by the factory - rev limiter / range restricted / ignition timing. Really soft cams is an option - especially with that amount of loss.  Where in the world are you - may give a clue?

    Clutch Issues

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Kraptanaman said:

    I fitted a new Clutch to my 1100 but the lever needs to be near enough fully out when it is engaging.  So embarrassing take offs . Can this be adjusted?

    No adjustment as such - being hydraulic it is supposed to be fairly well self adjusting - which means its either assembled wrong, its a plate short in the stack, there is air in the system or multitude of other things!

    Cam cover bolts

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    18 hours ago, Solcambs said:

    Ah ha ... problem solved ... https://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product-info.php?id=1046 I assume that these will do the job, and given that they are ally, won't foobar the thread like titanium etc. Anyone have negative experience of these before I order them.

    Who says they are aluminium? Just says ltwt., so are potentially Ti - I'd rather Ti than two alloys slowly welding themselves together and then twisting the head off!

    • Like 2

    Oil Pumps

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    7 hours ago, zedhead said:

    The fact that the question is posted in the oil-cooled section might be a small hint Ian! :D

    I don't know what section its posted in! - my browser only shows new posts not where they come from!

    Project; Whizzy Pop Slingshot

    in Forced Induction

    Posted

    Totally agree with your diagnosis - Its a bit of weight hanging on a relatively weakly attached tube, add in vibration and bumps and classic weld cracking. Either plate over the junction or add a flange brace between the two pipes - i'd add multiple TIG passes to build up joint section.

    Head and Base Gasket Help!

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    3 hours ago, Dezza said:

    I finks that is wrong gasketO.o. The required parts are for an 1100EF motor not a GSXR 1100. If the EFE head is coming off, personally I would check all the valve seats, de-coke and replace all the stem seals too. And check the rings/bores

    Apologies - air and oil cooled nomenclature confuses the hell out of me! Especially when GSX can be air or oil cooled! 

    Try this one..... https://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product/suzuki-gsx1100-1133cc-cometic-head-gasket/3303/

    A complete set always makes sense and Vesrah are ok - but most aftermarket valve seals aren't up to OEM standard and tend to harden / split / crack too soon - pays yer money and takes yer choice!

    Oil Pumps

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    Looking at the fiche drawings, these pumps 850 / 1000 / 1100 G do look like they are an integral unit - not like the 1150 models which are disassemblable (i've had a couple apart so know they are) The 'G' units may be riveted together and I guess ' no user serviceable parts' denotes no spares available. The two units look dissimilar so no swapping possible!

    Testing is usual only with complete motor - pressure isn't high even when healthy - personally if there is evidence swarf has come anywhere near the pump i'd be looking for a good replacement!

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