Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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49 minutes ago, Goo'Roo said:
Hello, I was thinking if they're necessary on a 1216cc busa pistons, stock everything else, low pressure td04-16 application.
I'm building a turbo tourer based on a gsx1100f, aiming at max 200 wheel bhp.Isn't that an oxymoron ? LOL! Turbo assistance on a tourer is a bit pointless unless towing a caravan as well?
I'm a big fan of HD studs - I used them on NA high comp which probably has higher cyl. pressure than low boost turbo? But people do use stock waisted studs with turbos and they work ok - just not my flavour / preference.
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Clive - Sean never really cured the fuel starvation situation with that bike nor the Spondon Kat. It didn't help using the same pumps for the NOS systems. PW was using so much fuel pressure, fuel would drip from the carb mouth at idle and flood entirely after a few seconds - lots of rpm just about kept it running. For 'mere mortals' with less extreme installations, the bigger bowl may be of a benefit with or without a pump. I agree on the S&S though - Huge float bowls - shame their fuel metering is so bad!
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I see from above you are using an HSR42 carb - unfortunately, whilst they are a great carb they do have a pitifully small float bowl which shows up on usually turbo'd applications............ Hardly Abletoo's don't seem to suffer LOL! There is a float bowl extension available that may help? A pump will get over the problem but at high power most LP pumps still struggle to keep up with demand! Picture from Mr Turbo in the US.
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Is this, cams in or out? If in. my 1st thought was valve pockets but they look big / deep enough (providing its not a 'stupidly big' lift cam).
Other than that I can't see anything else that could interfere .............. its not a loose can chain in the tunnel is it?
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I'm guessing the top one is stock 38 and lower is the Factory Pro kit needle?
Query - does the Short needle fit the slide and does it stay in the emulsion tube at full lift? If it does then it may be how Factory Pro engineered the fuel flow ie. onto the Main much earlier? Ifit comes out of the tube completely @ full lift i'd not be inclined to use it as it could jam open at WOT - not good! It could actually be a 36mm needle?
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Not the usual route but I used -10 with 90's .............. probably not the neatest way and the 90's acted as my lock stops LOL!
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My Kwak based trike has a similar battery monitor that should have a graphite rod that dips into the acid - long since disappeared - so I just pushed a piece of SS welding rod through one of the filler caps connected the wire an my light went out! Wonder why Suzuki chose to call it a 'fluid level switch'. Still think that is a way of replacing the 'dip rod' - if you earth it does light on dash go out?
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Looks brutal but that chain needs some love!
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Can't remember what the Bl/Gn wire is from / to ............ but that resistor ISN'T standard!
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Yep - the R/R is trying to charge a goosed battery - not good for long R/R life!
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2 minutes ago, Ibbo said:
The sprocket was welded on.
Bodging of the 1st order! That'll be interesting come chain & sprocket replacement time!
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Wouldn't that have been the obvious place to look / ask first?
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12 hours ago, BanditPervert said:
Has anyone used a td04 on a bandit 12, if so what fuelling did you use, control ect?
Site does have a 'Search' function - suggest its used first - RTFR ...........Oh, a Hello or an introduction is generally appreciated.
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1 hour ago, manden said:
if you dont have a valve in it, you should have inlet/outlet pointing up
Bollux - simple physics - downward facing connections will not drain the cooler unless sump is empty.
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12 hours ago, Blue said:
The hose is touching the exhaust
And adding a 45 deg bend will put it straight through #3 exhaust! You need a 12.5 deg bend - not available for larger hose!
I would be either straighten the #4 pipe more vertical, put a dent in #4 or re-centre the cooler to move the pipes away from the exhaust!
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You can but I don't see what advantage it will give unless you want to kick the pipe out forwards?
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From Workshop manual.......
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12 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Just spin the Turbo round a bit & make a bracket for the actuator.
That would also require re-making all the exhaust pipework - somewhat more involved! A standalone gate may be easier. But if the filter mounting screw can be removed then a re-made adapter with M20 on the engine side and a M16 thread on the filter side to allow a Yamahha thin filter may be the best overall fix?
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4 minutes ago, Ronaldo said:
Swopped the carbs around not new ones, plug looks dry,
swopped plug leads around put 2 on 1 1 on 2 fired up but on the same 3.
How did you swop carbs around? Alternate rack or break the rack up and swap bodies around?
Surprised it ran at all swopping 1 and 2 leads around as it would make ignition 180 degrees out ! ! !
You can swop 1 and 4 or 2 and 3 - no other combinations are correct.
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As said, its normal and if you look, there is a bloody great big hole in the casing that you can see the crankshaft through - for drainage. This will have nothing to do with poor starting - look elsewhere LOL.
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Given your OSS board name , I assume this isn't a boosted application?
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Using eyeball measuring the 'el gringo' adapter and short filter don't appear any shorter than a std HiFlo HF138 filter @ 64mm ! ! !
This would seem to be a reasonably priced remote filter kit ..... https://www.Eblag.co.uk/i/112553893410?chn=ps
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Wow - more of a gap than I thought - seeing the pictures, I concur with my learned friends evidence and support his conclusion m'lud - Guilty as charged!
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4 hours ago, dago said:
This is the map it came with not started playing with it yet, been using it almost everyday for a week and not had a kickback yet so will keep it 0 revs till spark for now. If you're running Dyna s with the earlier atu unit the base advance is 12' the STD efe is 10
Looks a very conservative curve - pretty much most engines have all the timing in by 4000 rpm tops. The extended curves possible with the Dyna 2000 never made any discernible difference on any engine i've seen.
Ape heavy duty studs
in Forced Induction
Posted
Nice Fab skills - I see now why turbo required - someone has bolted two wardrobes on the back - there's ya problem LOL!