Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Have to tell you that isn't an 1127 rotor or pick up plate! Its an earlier 1052 type!
And re Piccy above - you'll need the corresponding Spark box and because its a Blandit you'll need the Blandit Ignition switch or a way of 'fooling' the electrics to work!
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1 hour ago, Meerkat said:
To get my post volume up :-)
Don't go mad with that - it irritates the powers that be and they'll delete them so you're back to square one LOL!
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One thing often missed is these were 'usually' used in conjunction with a fairing, at a guess, to provide a fairly still air zone in the absence of an air box for carbs to function better - slightly higher pressure zone - whether the effects can be proven is debatable........ but 'Pops' did know his shit!
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Not going to get into the 'do they / don't they' debate - but will state a GSXR will not notice the addition of a turbo oil feed - the pump bleeds off between 25-50% of its pumped pressure and flow so a turbo feed is insignificant! Putting more oil into the head cam space isn't necessarily a bad thing with an oil cooled engine IMO!
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Got to ask - if tight for space at top why not use bottom feeds - cheaper fittings as well!
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1 hour ago, Sketch424 said:
Lifted needles by a clip position (leaner)
Lifting needles makes them richer - not leaner.
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150hp worth of air is still 150hp worth of air whether it goes in at 8000 or 12000 rpm! And a stock 750M ain't gonna be able to use 150hp worth of air anyway!
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Unless you are chasing every last HP then no they are wasted! RS36's will be nicer to use on the road!
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IMO RS36's are known to work well on 1216 motors to over 150hp and the factory used 38's for racing so i'd say anything bigger would be wasted and even 38's could be overkill for anything much less than race spec use?
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HPF1
in Trick Frames
Thought I recognised that frame colour in the 1st post...........
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3 hours ago, Oilyspanner said:
they work better on big bore and flowed motor, I kept the a.box as the power was much smoother with it in place.
That's the secret - they don't respond well to disrupted air flow - open, ram pipes, small filters etc.
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Good luck - they are a PITA to set up!
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re Blandit tap - is it vacuum operated? If so then it'll turn itself off when you get boost!............probably won't flow enough either!
An external gate will give better control but mine still has an internal gate @ 370hp.............just saying like! LOL!
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Cos some of us mere mortals don't want 100+hp worth of boost to arrive mid corner !
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On 8/13/2018 at 8:57 PM, davecara said:
Reckon a TD05 off a Mitsubishi EVO4 would be a bit big then?
Depends on engine size - mine is sufficient for it to work well.
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LOL - are you gonna use that bearing again? Maybe not! Grease is cheap - use loads - Hi Moly Lithium good for bearings.
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3 hours ago, CockneyRick said:
Don't use a 750 CDI on the 11 engine, has a higher rev limit & can pop your engine
Its hard enough getting an 1100 to its own redline under load let alone adding another 2000 rpm to it! Plenty 1100's die before 13,000!
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17 hours ago, Duckndive said:
use some stock inlet valves in the exhaust
They'll be a bit cosy at the seats - 26mm is usual oversize. Of course, offset guides are an option - not cheap or DIY though!
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1 hour ago, SFC said:
better pic with kawazuki on tank
lol! Seeing how squeezed it is to get the GSXR lump inside those frame rails - looks like it was never designed for anything aircooled - Zed, GS or GSX - which conclusion means a waterboiler, so should be taken out, shot then burnt!
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Long answer short ....................No!
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You can't have both with simple carbs! If you want torque you have to achieve gas speed / depression through the venturi - usually by restriction so 36's or 38's will do it but you WILL lose top end - how much is debatable. At the other end WOT and max revs power needs big holes to gulp as much air as possible so 40's / 41's / 44's are the way to go but until you get to their working range ....... it'll be just ok!
EFI on the other hand doesn't need gas speed to pick up fuel and so will run considerably better and get torque with big holes! My 1460 idles and runs very nicely with 46mm TB's and makes close to 200hp and 100+ ftlbs of torque as a NA - it is a low comp turbo motor!
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Why 'kawazuki' ? If its a aftermarket / DIY frame / chassis it can't be a 'kawa' can it?
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Fundamental tappet / valve clearance gap adjustment is always made to have the recommended gap located between point of minimum lift on the cam which conversely occurs when its paired cylinder is at maximum valve lift. Just remembering that - its difficult to get wrong!
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On 8/8/2018 at 10:08 AM, george 1100 said:
Engine has a weaker than normal crank speed due to the high comp and kicks back a bit when it doesn't fire. Also has a 4 degree advancer
Well - a fixed advancer isn't a good idea for starting a High Comp motor. You could try switching the ign. independently of the cranking so that engine will crank with ign off and once its spinning light the sparks. Or as before use 24v starting!
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Rotor broke
in Oil Cooled
Posted
What do you mean? The void below the oil pressure switch?........................... crankshaft, rods, gears, sump and oil !