Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Turn that fackin predictive text off
And spell checker on 
Or put yer fingers on a diet 
^^^ and that applies to you Young Sir also !
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A whole 750 gearbox - not just a case of swopping odd gears. The cases are different across the gears so some fettling may be required. But question is WHY? Smaller / thinner gears, more of them in a motor with more torque that doesn't need them?
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2 hours ago, VJ said:
2nd/3rd gear should fuel the same as 5th so id run it them.
Actually id wait to see what the dyno bloke did as a gauge of his skill first then suggest a lower gear if he has issues.
Yes and no LOL! It sounds like the guy uses a plain inertia dyno that isn't braked, so if the lower gears are used the load on engine is quite reduced and acceleration of the drum excessive to get reliable results. On 1100's, 5th will probably overspeed the roller, hence the concern - 4th should be safe on roller speed and allow sufficient resistance to load the engine and slow its rev rise - most of the dyno's i've ever used like using 4th gear especially if they use electrical braking to add extra load.
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^^^ Is generally true - subject to what boost you want to use! The OP question isn't so daft - true, it won't hike the capacity but that's what the turbo is for! It will however produce a lower CR which allows more boost. BUT, the caution is that std. cast pistons won't last long under increased turbo boost (that doesn't = 6 to 8 psi!) - the rings are too close to the piston top, it overheats which crushes / traps the rings and best scenario = lots of smoke, worst = scored bores. If its real budget build, the Bandit barrels + early Busa pistons =1216cc and will withstand 1 bar of boost if prepped right and they are forged. If the budget allows and you want more boost, only bore to 80mm and use proper dished Wiseco / JE turbo pistons that will cope with pretty much anything.
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23 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
Top oil temp is the critical thing for power.
Agreed - but measuring the oil flow to / at the cylinder head isn't the same as measuring the temp AFTER the head when its hottest. All that HOT oil flows back to the sump including hot oil via the clutch and the gearbox. A few cc's of cooled oil at the bearings may seem good but if the oil is being cooked through the rest of the engine its not so good - just my opinion!
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Ah the joys of drag racing - shit don't last like it used to ! I've had tyres last a meeting or 4 passes before being done - gets spendy!
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Personally i'd want to know the temp of oil in the sump so would put sender there - the pump and galleries up to the head add heat.
Re : the linked cam oil source - who cares where it comes from, use whatever you want.........the most powerful GSXR UK streetbike takes oil from the head cooling gallery - just saying
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Pretty much at the end of its life so on borrowed time - do you run lower pressure? If yes - it does take life out of the carcass, so don't run them too skinny.
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Depends on how well it is breathing but mostly the power peak will be 10 - 10,500. It's a strong bottom end so will turn more - but it's generally pointless. A dyno run will give you the info.
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That's fine - absolutely normal! Remember the engine cases breathe IN as well as out when engine is switched off and cools down - vapour in air gets sucked in to a degree + any ring blow by condenses and all gets converted back to vapour next time its running - don't want to see it ............... direct hose down the back of the engine LOL!
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Better to go bigger on the front - give the chain an easier time! I used 17/45 - fine on street and when racing - its about equal to taking 6 off the rear!
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Without being obvious - these are for competition bikes with minimal looms, designed to go from A 2 B 2 C. Trying to retain std. wiring and piggy back extra sub circuits will likely produce the effects experienced. The clutch switch needs to be NO, if all the other usual starting inhibitor bollux is still in circuit its possible to defeat the switch.
With electrics............ K I S S.
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On prime the tap will flow fuel - usually less than optimal to run continually in use - basically a lever moves the diaphragm in the tap so doesn't need vacuum.
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Just cos the plugs are wet doesn't mean fuel supply is correct - just those cylinders aren't running correctly. Could be too much fuel or not enough to fire so just wets the plugs! if it'll run on choke but not when off it sort of suggests fuel to me?
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1 hour ago, davecara said:
Nice one chaps, i’ll give Mr Pepper some money at the end of the week!
whas the pros and cons of copper vs mls then?
For turbo's and competition bikes that have very high cylinder pressures, the copper gaskets are more forgiving (IMO) and re-usable. The block liners have a wire o-ring inserted which 'bites' into the copper gasket producing an exceptionally tight seal. Come to re-use time you just re-anneal the copper, making it soft again and it's ready to go - good as new. Copper is good for air and oil cooled engines - MLS is better for water cooled, although good for use with road and mildly tuned air / oil cooled motors - personally I wouldn't use one with a turbo or a big, big bore where bore to bore (1-2) and (3-4) metal surface is minimal to provide sufficient clamping pressure making blown gaskets more easily possible.
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That's all I used to do for a 7 second Funnybike! - Scotchbrite and brake cleaner.
Getting all logical - a clutch is designed to slip, if any part of its operation or movement isn't smooth or slick, then it'll judder and or slip. If slipping under full engagement, it can only be spring pressure / a warped steel or steels / glazed or contaminated fibres or mechanical wear preventing correct engagement. What oil? not a fully synth hopefully!
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9 minutes ago, Screwriverracing said:
Try shotblasting them first, when they are rough they grip the fibres better. Also what are you clutch springs like?
Cheers SRR
Shouldn't need that level of surface finish, brown Scotchbrite at most even it burnt up and blued (needs must on occasion! ) - shiney plates are fine and will hold daft power as long as pack is correct thickness / steels are flat / and springs have correct tension. What make of fibres are you using?
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13 minutes ago, 370steve said:
Wiseco
Never seen anyone in the UK carry Wiseco gaskets - Cometic is usually my go to HG ........ if its not copper!
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1 hour ago, BigT said:
It could be that your fuel tap is leaking fuel down the vacuum line into #2, washing out the cylinder
Yes - but it would have picked up or stayed the same with oil down the bore. I think you've got a burnt valve or two. Other cylinders aren't bad but an over bored EFE @ 10:1 CR? I would have thought nearer 180psi or 12.75 on your gauge should be the norm?
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Actually, at the sort of boost you'd be running to make it worthwhile - 90 deg engine coolant temp would be a bonus! Intake air temps can hit well over 120 degrees closer to 150+C at just 2 bar boost - all subject to turbo efficiencies of course.
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Well that was diplomatic ......................not! LOL!
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Not dissing your abilities but are you aware of what a charge cooler contains? Its an air to water / cooling fluid intercooler ie a radiator within a fluid filled box! If you have the ability to machine that from a block of alloy then i'm sure NASA will be calling soon!
You could be thinking of a plenum that contains a heat exchanger ie. the air passes through a cool water radiator that takes heat from the air into the water to be re cooled elsewhere - still plenty of fabrication and welding involved.
And you still haven't addressed the fact, a air or oil cooled bike ......... has no water for cooling! Sure it can be added with the extra radiator, pipework and pump but it certainly won't be less bulky or more elegant than a simple air to air IC!
Not knocking ambition - try it .................but do feel like you'll be wasting your time and effort.
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Forget the charge cooler idea - to be any good it needs to have reasonable size and also the main ingredient - water....... both of which, are or will be in sort supply on a Katana! If you do want to run mega power / boost on the road a std air to air IC has been shown to work - I used one myself. Otherwise the turbo and EFI installs are fairly common on Oldskool - do a search and read.
carb rubbers
in Oil Cooled
Posted · Edited by Gixer1460
The carb throats should line up directly with the inlet rubbers - if they obviously don't then they may be off a W/C engine and they won't fit as spacing is deffo wrong. 36mm carbs will fall into 38mm rubbers - again if they are 36mm air / oil cooled carbs. 40mm rubbers are available but they'd never properly tighten down on 36mm carbs! I've seen people use ratchet straps to squeeze carbs into rubbers but it really shouldn't be necessary even when the rubbers are semi-hard.