Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Yes would spool quick but soon choke itself. My first T2 came from a 1900cc diesel - max boost @ about 3500rpm but just wouldn't make anymore power - flat as! As to numbers - Turbine A/R 0.48 worked on mine but the turbine wheel was not the same it started with so it's a of bit guesswork!
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Maybe, but if that shaft costs 10% of the area, you are still up 15% BUT airspeed will be lower so giving a less 'punchy' response which is probably why racers like slide carbs? But Suzuki didn't fit 38mm CV's to the Race 750RR's for no reason - just sayin'!
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It looks bloody small - maybe even a T2? Possibly off a diesel with the small dia. turbine?
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Intriguing project but I can't immediately see how the frame mods will help with chain run and car wheel / tyre use - watching with interest though! Just out of interest - car tyre in preference to a super wide bike tyre ....... reasoning?
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Can't be sure but I believe the Oiler rockers have a different ratio so either increase or decrease valve lift in a GSX head. Unless you are chasing every last HP, i'd stick to what the engine came with!
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Doesn't do jack! Some have tried 'resonators' between 1&2 and 3&4 but more marketing tool than performance enhancement!
As 2 and 3 fire adjacent - you'd 'unbalance' flow from 1 and 4 for no gain.
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That's nice - not too shouty!
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4 hours ago, Zweihammer said:
All the 1127 blocks I have come across in the last couple weeks have issues I am not comfortable with. Why are so many missing chunks from the bottom skirt of the sleeves?
Cheers, Zweihammer
There is a clearance issue between cylinder liner and rotating assembly - looks ugly but unavoidable. Could shorten the sleeve but length gives support to piston - choices, choices!
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On 11/15/2018 at 4:32 PM, scotgary said:
Hi Guys,
I'm ready to adjust cam timing on my GSX1100.
APE (Greg Cope) recommends 110 degrees both intake and exhaust.
Anyone else have a different recommendation?
The motor has oem pistons, Fresh valve seats, Mikuni RS36's and a Motogpwerks exhaust.
Thanks
Thats a good number and works well from mild through warm to wild - Greg does know his onions!. Some increased compression won't hurt!
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Well a GSX1400 ticks all the boxes - stroke should be 68mm, its a 4v and it is a 6 speed! And looking at the parts fiche the input shaft does look different - like the above, but hard to tell !
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2 hours ago, wraith said:
Not GS850 as it has a sprocket, - correct - and (if I remember right) the GS750 had straight cut gears. - Correct again but straight cut primaries so doesn't help here?
Are we knowing if was air cooled? The input shaft at the clutch end is weird looking!
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28 minutes ago, clivegto said:
17 won't fit. Am running 16/43 on the road still loads the Turbo & fast.
Someone better tell the two turbo GSXR's that I've built, both with 17's - the Kawazuki was 17/45 @ 210hp and the 1460 has 17/42 @ a lot more! Tried an 18 from a Busa - no way, all with 530 / 532 chain
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15 minutes ago, Arttu said:
4-1 wheel has three actual teeth so the graph looks correct.
Agreed but there are only two short peaks before a tall one unless it's just a tooth counter and the 'missing' one is causing a spike added to the following one.I'm just used to seeing regular pulses with missing tooth giving a definite gap.
BTW my 4 tooth was 4 teeth + 1 cam tooth - ancient Motec M8 ECU and low'ish turbo CR.
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@Arttu - btw a 4 tooth modified std GSXR wheel will work - that's what I used on mine so I know it does - admittedly not great but it does.
Correct me if i'm wrong but i'm reading only three teeth registering? Possibly a reason it won't start..... picture of your wheel may help?
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11 hours ago, jonny1bump said:
Need to rubber mount them.had several fail. There mini coils seem good well so far they been good.
That's a new one on me! If they are solid mount the whole coil will vibrate together with its mount and the frame, at whatever freq. Rubber mounting just changes the range where it vibrates on its own. I've used US made dyna coils from the 70's never a problem - it would seem Dyna outsourced their coils from Asia - these largely seem to experience the defects! Really - how difficult is it to wind some thick and thin copper wire round an iron core and mould resin round them? If the OEM's weren't so stupidly expensive they would be a 'top tip'!
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11 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
How on earth do you hit your sump on a speed bump!!!!!! your down pipes will hit the deck wayyyy before the sensor........
Maybe so on a Blandit but the sump plug can be the lowest thing on a later GSXR with a Vee sump and 4-2-1 exhaust!
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2 hours ago, nlovien said:
spot on - the latter - you can get away with a bit of +/- on the lower tensile - more ductile bolts but the HT you should be more accurate and set to the prescribed torque due to being more prone to crack failure
That still doesn't make any sense! Yes lower tensile bolts can be +/- (why anyone would not tighten to prescribed torque is strange!) but they will stretch the more torque that is applied actually reducing the applied clamping force - great addage - 'More is often Less'. If the stock bolts were changed for, say 12.9HT bolts, a higher (above std spec.) can be applied and still be within their own quoted yield stress and as they stretch less, that pressure goes into the clamping force.
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Got to compare apples with apples! A 33mm anything is never going to match a 36mm anything for N/A airflow - simple physics!
Why would anyone bother converting a CV to direct lift when a) it doesn't have an accelerator pump circuit to stop it falling on its arse when the handle is yanked and b) a comparable direct lift carb is available in sizes 34mm - 55mm!
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The modded 33mm slide carbs have nearly 20% less airflow area - the CV throttle butterfly doesn't get near that as an obstruction hence flow less even though unobstructed - now if it was a 36mm flat slide against the CV - no contest!
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10 hours ago, bluedog59 said:
Strange, I would have thought you'd have got a good few BHP on the top with them, certainly better than stock or stock carbs with dual K+N's and the correct jetting.
Why would smaller carbs (bored out to 33mm) be better than the std. 36mm bore carbs - the fella said they were breathless, guess why! Good for a 750 not an 1100/1200 with big lungs!
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7 hours ago, bluedog59 said:
IMO. High C of G, Turbo and Nitrous makes it too much of a straight line bike for me. Fine if that's what you want but I'm surrounded by fast and bumpy B roads and prefer something that is fast over the whole route A to B, not something I'm fighting keep the front down on and pointing in the right direction. I'm sure there is probably a good bike in there but not in it's present set up.
Moto GP bikes have to use traction control to stop them flipping and they hardly ever see a straight line and probably have the best jockeys in the world on board ! ! !
And fyi, a high CG is NOT what any 'Straight line' bike wants - unless they want to go slow! Because we build stupidly powerful bikes - doesn't mean we have to use it all + the chassis hardware of that particular bike is probably waaaay more capable than any normal rider could exploit.
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Not out of the question - not hard to do, mainly used with high comp motors but should work as well with regular types. Or turbo it - nice low comp then
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11 hours ago, Duckndive said:
No Sweary dint listen to Steve just gave him some verbal "how surprising" but he did change it on the oil boiler frames strangely
Martek frames always had the tubes parallel
Don't I feel like a twat now! LOL!
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2 hours ago, Duckndive said:
And unlike another big tube Ali frame the tubes run parallel with the head fins
You know, all the times i've seen that bike down a Seans I never noticed that - obviously sweary Bob listened to Steve Burns after all!
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Earlystocks 748 carb choice
in Oil Cooled
Posted
I thought the 1100 M / N was the only bike with 40's?