Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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3 hours ago, zedhead said:
And it's had quite a bit of further development since that video. It'snow running fuel injection, and if I remember correctly there have also been a few chassis alterations and further engine changes. It's a monster!
Boy - pay attention in the back................... it has EFI in the video !
Its a ProStock motor if it was legal - nearer a ProMod, but button start is a nice touch
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12 hours ago, no class said:
street bike in the high 6 second quarter mile...….lol.....must be a hoot to ride that beast !
Yeah - real street, grocery getter bike !
1 hour ago, Swiss Toni said:ET's still rule, then! God knows what it's cost to get it to that stage! Gotta be worth it though, to show those 'Busa' drivers how it's done!
And what part is still an ET? - Frame .... nope, suspension .... nope, Engine - maybe some engine covers. There is probably $100k or more in that bike + the hired gun, 8yr old sized jockey LOL!
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Unless you are going to stump up for what will be virtually one off turbo cams, std cams will serve even fairly high output motors very well. Use some adjustable cam wheels, dial the cams into 108 - 110 degrees - job done!
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Car guys know jack shite about bike carbs except than they are cheaper than Webers! The use of a choke is a complete mystery to them so not surprised about the 'modification'. Re your little brass accessory - i'd be looking at pressed in jets or jet tips? - where from - not a scooby! Anything in 1 or 2 that looks similar?
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Hope they were a bargain!
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Be very odd if it 'was' made like that!
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1 hour ago, Dukeman said:
Oil volume bottom feeding oil cooler.
Struggling to know how much oil to put in my Kat..1230.
I stop the engine and look asap... leave it a few minutes and it goes past full.
Any ideas?
If the connections are below oil level it will not drain ! Subject to the cooler size probably between an additional 0.25 - 0.5L
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Its not something much discussed as most installs are horizontal or upto 10 degrees off. Turbo bearings both plain and BB are designed for radial loads with a small passive axial pressure bearing to keep the wheels away from the scroll surfaces. This position also assists with natural drainage of oil out of the core. Shifting it vertical will remove all the radial load and transfer it axially needing a proper hi-speed thrust bearing and a way of preventing the oil pooling / pissing through the bearing and smoking like a tractor during start and general running - in all, a bad idea!
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Does it start on the button or take a few cranks? It's usually slow cranking or crank inertia kick back - they are quite fragile HT bolts as std. I eventually gave up after breaking allsorts of metal types - I serviced the s. clutch, springs, rollers and pins and MIG welded 3No 1/2" stitch welds from clutch to rotor - never broke again (using high comp and 24v starting!)
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Copper is an alternative often used with turbo's - providing the block is O ringed / wire ringed!
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1 hour ago, Reinhoud said:
Do con rods stretch that much?!!
I don't know but top engine builders won't go below 0.5mm squish for a reason! A rod in a super hot race engine @ 12,000 rpm could easily stretch / use up all the bearing clearances that total 0.5mm?
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Its the edge of the piston that determines the squish not the crown - if the crown is level with the gasket surface you'll be losing power through a bad burn / combustion. The edge should be closer to the gasket - a bit of solder placed on the piston edges in some grease during a dry build with a used gasket will reveal what it will be - ideally as noted above
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If its a carb with a plastic float 'cage' - just pry the whole cage up out of the body casting then the needle removal is easier. Be gentle - it is fuel soaked plastic!
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1 hour ago, scotgary said:
I totally agree. I have decided to use the new OEM piston and rings with a degreed stock cam.
I still need to get confirmed specs for deck height. Are the pistons supposed to be 0.40" in the hole at TDC, or flush to the top of the cylinder?
Hope you meant 0.040" as nearly 1/2" down the hole won't help! Subject to your head gasket thickness the deck ht. varies - for max output vs reliability the squish should be between 0.75 - 1.0mm - tighter is better but rod stretch and over-reving will lead to contact.
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Going from 1127 to 1186 picked up 20hp for me and shed load of torque - difficult to get that increase with cams and not change anything else!
That was as back - to - back as I could do - everything stayed as was, except the jetting!
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29 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:
correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't you need a fuckload of boost to achieve this?
Probably more than a couple of Bar boost ie. more than most peeps run. But doing a turbo build - is it worth the cost of some springs or rely on something tired and maybe 30 years old? I put G&S springs in mine............but it was designed to see in excess of 2 bars!
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Nothing wrong with a bit of Vaseline to help getting big things into smaller holes - used worldwide LOL!
Oh - O rings............... a dab of anything a bit sticky works - grease, vaseline, hylomar etc.
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19 minutes ago, clivegto said:
After all it was the most powerful oil cooled engine.
Really - did Suzuki fit the wrong engine in the GSXR then?
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Cdi?
in Oil Cooled
13 hours ago, CockneyRick said:Yellow was probably Green that's faded.
Tacho wire is not needed unless you have/want one
No - yellow is correct along with blue/black - they are GSXR 1127 pick-up colours. A GSXR doesn't have that interlock shite either!
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Fairly sure it'll be a T4 not a T04 and will be too big for bike use IMO - The T3 series were about right. Not to say that if the core is good it couldn't be re-purposed with wheels and smaller scrolls but its a lot of work and money ......... unless you own a turbo shop!
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I'm guessing the 'checker circuit' is looking at current draw to determine if the bulb is duff or not - as LED's draw less than normal bulbs its probably thinking its failed! A sales gimmick from the 80's which was never much use!
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If you are going to the expense (time and money) doing a full on port and flow job inc. valves then valve guide replacement is usual as you are boring and re-cutting the seats so why do it with a wonky guide? As long as a valve stem is longer then new collet grooves can be cut and stem shortened then re-hardened with induction heating and quenching - but for the cost you might as well buy bespoke valves...........how fast can you afford to go?
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It's not a 'normal' bore size - most will use 85 or 86mm for 1340 or 1371cc but if you can find the pistons - why not!
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Well the obvious picks would be GS750, 850 or 1000? An ET tank may fit and they are mahooosive
Brad Mummert's GS(X) Pro Street Bike
in Air Cooled
Posted
Yes I am aware - i'm guessing the EFI is allowing a well retarded timing for cranking cos it spins over well quick for a (probably) highish comp 1640cc motor.