Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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2 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:
I guess its just different ways we look at things. Rising rate like you describe wouldnt be any good.
Out of interest wouldnt an FPR like that need some sort of electronic control or be quite complicated to maintain a ratio not just maintain reference pressure + base?
Just wondering if somthing like that with a low ratio would work better than regular boost referenced fpr
No electronics..... https://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/fse-sytec-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator-rising-rate-2072-p.asp
And for a carb - No, for the reasons outlined above.
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To get it running maybe but its way to soft / heat retentive to use for general running - its a #5 whereas the correct plug is #9
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Beg to disagree - Rising Rate regulators increase pressure based on their settings 1:1.2 or 1:1.5 and i've seen them upto 1:1.7 so for every 1psi boost the fuel pressure increases by 1.2 or 1.5 or 1.7 - as I said this is maybe not what the engine wants - sort of if more is good even more must be better!
A boost referenced FPR stays 1:1 so the FP stays exactly as it was without boost in relative terms - you are trying to achieve a constant fuel level in the bowl, how can that be accomplished if the FP is constantly changing compared to the boost pressure within the float bowl?
Re-reading an earlier post this " carbs with a FPR don't need vacuum " was badly worded. It should read " carbs do not need vacuum regulated FPR's"
@El Gringo- pressure is pressure and vacuum is vacuum whatever bore of pipe - only the response time is likely to vary although probably not as you could measure it reliably
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2 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:
You do if its a rising rate FPR, otherwise if you have 3psi fuel pressure and 4psi boost you cant get fuel into the bowls.
Otherwise your fuel pressure needs to be set a bit higher than your max boost permanently. Cant see carbs holding 20psi
READ IT ! - I said VACUUM !
And a rising rate regulator is completely different to a boost referenced one ! The first is used as a 'band aid' for EFI systems that can't be remapped - increasing fuel pressure uncontrolled and unrelated to boost pressure / engine requirements. The latter will increase FP to match boost pressure so that the fuel pressure will remain at static + boost to avoid wild swings in fuel mixtures / flooding.
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Just an observation - carbs with a FPR don't need vacuum - the float bowls should be filled regardless of what the engine is doing. Fuel metering is done by the carb design not fuel pressure.
EFI on the other hand can benefit with a vac referenced FPR as the squirt pressure at the point of injection is proportional to what the engine is doing / needs.
Re the picture above - I wouldn't be surprised that the pitot gave bad results due to airflow disruption from the tube welded on beside it?
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If the tin tops are aircooled Suzuki then the spacing should be identical to 36mm CV's and 38's and 40's......... 77 - 93 - 77 - centerline dims.
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Excellent idea! Hang on bling always appreciated!
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Whilst I can sort of see the attraction - that engine has too much 'in ya face' CNC work on it - just me I 'spose! I do like the block ....... apart from the graffiti on it ! ! ! LOL!
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Hmmm - bit clunky, not what I was expecting. I was thinking more along the lines of a linear potentiometer on a single cable.
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Ho Ho Ho - out comes the Dremel !
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1 hour ago, markfoggy said:
Looks like Keihin do a set of 41mm with TPS, I'm guessing that a side pull conversion on any set of carbs could be modded to rig a TPS in there.
This is all going to take some thought.
Funnily enough I picked up a set of RS40's that came off a race bike and were fitted with a TPS - obviously retrofit but proves with ingenuity anything is possible.
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13 hours ago, markfoggy said:
Not something that you are going to see on a Dyno.
I've only seen it on a stop watch and heard 'He just comes off the corners so good'.
And to be honest I think that was without a TPS.
That is about as naive a comment as possible! Good dyno's and good dyno operators will load and hold an engine and make adjustments whilst mapping both fuel and ignition - you see results - pro's and con's in real time. My bike was mapped with 46mm bore TB's - try doing that by 'seat of the pants' tuning!
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As 1500/1570 is a fairly normal size @ 87mm and someone used to have an 1800cc GSX @ over 90mm bore - its safe to say BIG!
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See! - easy when you 'man' up LOL!
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5 hours ago, Gammaboy said:
Slot a RGV250 TPS into the middle of the throttle cable?
Never seen that - more info? Piccies would be useful.
Can see this being useful in multitude of applications.
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Coils
in Oil Cooled
Check the resistance between the low tension side terminals - should be 3 - 5 ohms - if so you are good to go!
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Unleaded fuel makes (IMO) 'reading' mixtures via tail pipe harder than it used to be - plug colour is more reliable. Popping and banging in exhaust on over run is usually too lean. 38's will need bigger MJ's unless the engine really needs the bigger carb for airflow as a std'ish engine will have less draw on the jets so bigger mains to compensate. If it's going to the dyno - all well and good.
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19 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
Interesting I,ve just put a new 180 on a 5.5 rim and it would work better "sit flatter" on a 6inch like the old sticky mickys used to I think.............
Tend to agree - I used to like using a 160 tyre on a 5.5 rim - absolute bugger to get 'beaded' though!
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28 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
OOoh and to add a random comment......over 50% of folk with a lock up clutch on there bike don't have a clue how it works or how to tune it.....
Controversial ........................... but true
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Please explain why the Bandit - with more capacity (+4%) but lower compression (-10%) needs such large jets (+20%) then ?
It's my RoT - you don't have to follow it!
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Coils
in Oil Cooled
Suzuki / Kawa / onda coils from the 70's and 80's are pretty much universal (one size fits all) so from same model will deffo be ok.
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Generally my 'rule of thumb' is, if you increase compression & breathing capacity the MJ will decrease as there is more 'draw' through the venturi - conversely poor airflow ie. Blandit lower compression needs stupidly large jets to compensate due to reduced draw.
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Internal changes only - fuel level sender fitted.
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3 hours ago, Paulm said:
You can put a little reservoir on the drain,but do you have a restriction in the oil feed to the turbo? There may be too much oil going into the turbo.Mine has a 1mm carb jet screwed into the banjo bolt for the oil feed pipe to the turbo.
This doesn't seem to be an immediate issue requiring a solution?
Turbo plumbing for a simpleton
in Forced Induction
Posted
Not really as the float valve would see 5psi instead of 2psi - wouldn't stop flow so instant flooding. The pitot's shouldn't give any actual increase in pressure but if they were positioned say, on a section where the pipe flared out / increased dia. the pressure would increase fractionally. I'd say they are best positioned near the compressor to get the 'earliest' signal with most direct hose run of 6-8mm bore to maintain gas speed. Maybe this is why pipot installs show such wide variations in function and efficiencies?