Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Not wanting to sound obvious but if its a 'race' motor throw 'race' cams at it - then it's not an issue? You are in Trumpland and have some of the best cam grinders available - use their expertise. And I think the CV's (if you are keeping them) will benefit from dual K&N's rather than singles........ just sayin'
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46 minutes ago, VJ said:
DOT heads were fitted to GSX750F's and the 'dot' describes the identifier, just above the head gasket on the side is a cast circle in the fins about the size of a pound coin.
Cams wise theres a lot of numbers on them but the only way to be certain as to what cams are what is to measure them.
And the DOT heads never came with Shim adjusted valves so it couldn't have been a 91' 750!
The DOT heads are largely the same ie. same valves, only the cams varied
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If they had a stroke of that magnitude they'd be over 1600cc - YeeHar!
Early bikes GSXR 1052 etc. had 58mm stroke, the later GSXR 1127 had 59mm stroke. Bores changed by a mm as well. The Hippo was a GSXR with shaft drive added and equally tuneable!
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Is that piston back to front but in the right / wrong hole - or is that how it came from the boring place?
Only reason I ask, is I thought the 'larger' valve cut-outs on the piston would be for the inlets - I know it's not assembled, just looks odd?
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This is the rats nest of crap to be removed and once removed the oval pieces that bolt to the exhaust port need blanking with plates - some performance places do cnc plates or just cut some 3mm alloy plate and shape - leaks here will cause loud backfires on de-cell. Pipe 17 to the carbs can be blocked with an M6 screw and a zip tie to hold in position.
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I can't knock your fabrication skills but for commercial fabrication reasons wouldn't a regular round tube be a better choice for the 'snorkel' ? Arttu makes a good point re : volume vs surface area - i've seen some smaller, more regular shaped plenums get blown out of shape so badly the guys gave up and switched to SS material - 2 bar boost can be brutal LOL!
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Carbs function is all about airflow - cams don't generally help that, just change how much can be ingested - slower airspeed = bigger jets req. Most plenum volumes don't come close to std. airboxes volumes so should improve gas speed. Switch to EFI - and all the problems evaporate!
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Sounds like it! Blow through carbs shouldn't need much more on the main jet compared to NA as the pitot tube should ensure equal pressurisation.
But as you have changed so many things at the same, time it will be difficult to pin it down to one thing!
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11 hours ago, johnr said:
its vital. you might not want to go out in the rain but you cant help it sometimes, and any water that gets into the filleer cap recess if it cant get away down the drain will sit in the filler recess till you open the tank, then it will just fall into thee tank and contaminate the fuel and rust its way out the bottom of the tank.
Wow! - melodramatic - you are definitely 'a glass half full' type of person!
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Have a sneaking suspicion that the liners OD is the same across both models - the Blandit is I believe 1mm bigger - can't confirm though!
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22 minutes ago, Swirl said:
I have picked up a U704 1052 slabby bottom end with a bit of research it seems it's from France and West Germany with a reduced power output, how would this be done carbs/exhaust is the bottom end the same as u703
Generally done with carbs and exhaust - easiest and cheapest.
Sometimes via ignition. Nothing in the bottom end with ability to restrict output (without major cost) so should be identical!
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Agreed. And rising rate FPR's are for muppets who can't be bothered to get the installation correctly mapped relying on increase in pressure rather than fuel flow based on load demand. Although many OEM installations are 'dead headed and run NA fine when turbos start to get used for performance then external FPR's and return lines tend to be used more often - for me the latter method works better IMO.
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4 hours ago, Mark said:
The arm is offset to the left, and it still has the triumph wheel on with 190mm tyre. The tyre crudely offered up above is the intended 240mm. I haven't yet sourced a wheel.
But the tyre lined up with the left side of the existing wheel (to maintain the same as current wheel/tyre to sa clearance) looks pretty central to me. And well within tweaking capabilities to fit the larger rear inline.
Yeah - understand the reasoning but are we agreed that the wheel needs to be central which will require quite a bit of in / offset of the hub to match up with the bike hub. Which throws up another problem - the extra load due to the offset on the bearings which you can't move!
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I believe it's 'swings and roundabouts' - traditional draw through has longish exhaust and ultra short inlet whilst the newer blow through has ultra short exhaust and long inlet. But IMO the latter 'could' suffer a degree of lag due to the considerable air volume that has to be compressed before creating measurable boost..............but it really is marginal. Can't say I've ever worried about lag or slow delivery with either combination - but do like having facility of a air to air IC.
Bruteforce's install should be laggy with its large exhaust volume and extended pipe runs - but I don't believe he has any complaints!
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Am I missing something as that VFR / tyre combo looks to be 2 - 3" off to the left?
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18 hours ago, jonny1bump said:
When you modified it for blow through where you but the butterflys.
It wasn't blow through - the turbo stayed in the same place - replaced the S&S with a big Throttle body!
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Oh forgot to say if anyone wants to copy this manifold that I made for my first draw through then modified for oldskool blow though - feel free!
PM me if you would like pdf copies - they are A1 sized prints.
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Liking this a lot - everything is short and direct - minimal losses. Hope there is going to be lots of insulation between the header and the IC?
Fan under seat - very sensible......
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No pictures - just drilled and tapped blind hole for a M6 steel screw and cut head off so it cleared the sensor.......same way Suzuki did it with the early Hayabusa's.
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On 11/29/2018 at 10:12 AM, jonny1bump said:
With side stand switch you need to be careful if you teach people how to frig it out someone has accident how do you stand in today's world. Lot strange peeps out there. Hence why now added fuse in relay mod.
BTW - how did we get into 'side stand' switch deletion?
Frankly if peeps can't work out how, even with limited electrical knowledge, then they shouldn't be asking!. It is there for a reason - may be for the peeps who have to ask how to delete it? Sorry if that offends anyone ...............................deal with it LOL!
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5 minutes ago, jonny1bump said:
How this sound.
Disclaimer - If you follow this modification it is completely at your own risk and no one other than yourself can be held accountable for any mistakes, actions or accidents which could occur from any implemented modifications and from riding in an unsafe or dangerous manner including but not restricted to, leaving side stand down whilst riding.
Rationalised and legalised it for you.
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1 hour ago, CossiEst said:
i used the water drain pipe that lives inside the tank. Just cut it with a hacksaw blade from filler hole, and plug the hole on top. Easiest way, but on the downside you might get some rain/water under the filler cover, that might get inside your fuel
Worked for me!
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The brass crimp is factory - seen it lots of times on various manufacturers looms - the bare reds look odd though!
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Liquid filled mechanical types are just so much more reliable on bikes than dry electronic ones - high frequency vibes will usually kill them or shake them to bits - my personal preference!
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Gsx swingarm
in Air Cooled
Posted
Straight swop - did it on my 750ET about 25 lifetimes ago!