jonny1bump

When you have updated can you let us know.

Hes had little play today

I've took little gamble and asked for 100 washers will see him Sat as we going bike show. So all been well I will have them the weekend. Suppose best way for payment would be PayPal. For foreign post will got post office and inform exact cost.

If you read the original article in vault section I measured where all the voltage drops occur. The reg needs to know what voltage system has. I've seen voltage drop through ignition switch on few bikes now. You quite right about the wiring they all old and suffering now in many places. The mod does fix this but does not address route cause. To fix this replace whole leccy system or make new loom as I did choice is yours. Remember I discovered this 10 years ago or more so imagine state most are in now. I certainly would not delete your thread you found what works for you and that may work for others no golden rules here every machine can be different, we learn from experiences. Also the red wires should be clipped together looks like that may have been a factory miss.

Looks like it. Gonna be joint venture.

Sounds good. Just 're-read original article that really does explain it well along with captains relay pic. Only other comment I have Crass most old school Suzukis the wires are now black so you have to really clean the cable with gentle abrasion and use good quality crimps.

Doh funny.

Good point about finding vat big enough. In your pic was frame and swing arm already black when you had it and is it paint or anodized.

Spoke to Stu whose is far clever then me on leccy, replacing breaker with 30 amp fuse is fine only to protect against dead short. "You've got to charge the battery through it once running & think about the load when running. 2x55w headlamp, 10w side & tail, brake & indicators 21w+2x21w plus running current for the ignition (say 5A) gives about 20A & you don't want to be thermally stressing the fuse so 30 is fine. 10 is fine for the trigger feed."

Right then just got workshop drawing out. The wiring diagram that's been posted on here confuses matters. Go by my hand written picture.. The breaker feeds whole circuit on bike apart from starter motor there is no fuse in this feed. The main orange wire is main feed straight out of ignition it feeds horn, fuse box, and alternator trigger wire, hense why linked to 30 amp breaker. Also red charging wire goes to this breaker. So if removing breaker may be good idea to install inline fuse to protect circuits not protected by fuse box I.e. ignition switch, horn, charging circuit. Remember fuse it to protect wiring. Right back to my mod you are feeding trigger wire directly to battery via the relay if you worried about protecting the wire you can put in inline fuse. So the wiring diagram posted could do with been removed as that is misleading making circuit look like it's protected with a fuse. Does that makes sense. Like said don't over think it.

I thought the stock alluminium frames are lacquered hence why they don't look so good over time. Never polished frame hence question.

Okdokey sounds good to me.

Crass your right it's all fed from breaker including main charging wire, hence high rating. Perhaps then for those who removed breaker we advise breaker be replaced with 30 amp in line fuse.

You know I completely forgot about the circuit breaker I binned that in 1993. The trigger wire is direct from ignition but ignition is fused well upstream if I remember correctly. Perhaps it was only the breaker Will have check workshop manual and refresh memory as ive done it completely different with my own loom. Don't think you would need such big fuse on the actual trigger wire itself as it's turning alternator on and monitoring. Need to keep eye on the red charging wire they like to melt at connector joints.

The item the wires goes to is the sensor and front edge of sensor picks up ferrous metal passing front face, has about 2mm range too.

So you got ya new flash front end and no Speedo. Splash some cash buy new fancy unit (dangerous word on this site), now you are to run cable down fork leg and glue magnet in brake disc, Or attach to rear brake hanger to count bolt heads and as it gets hot readings go a little off. A lot of units need 5 v feed so little drawing old skool style showing how to use a more industrial sensor found on machines which has 12 feed in with ground and trigger wire return of 12 volt which then reduced to 5 volt via resitors to keep your nice new posh electricy whizzy thing happy. I drilled out bandit sprocket cover sensor and drilled output shaft which needs to be done on lathe to bolt trigger plate onto end of shaft. But there many ways to do this it's the leccy bit I'm showing in this how to.

Perhaps this should be stickied too. I've been asked about this in past too.

Is the black powder coated. Anyone ever anodized frame or swing arm. Would image cast bits would be not such a good black.

Just noticed on original article there is note not to use cheap relays that is good point whoever added this and deffinatly worth considering.

You can put your blue B wire straight to battery thats what i did. If you worried you can use inline fuse. But what I mean about B wire is your blue wire to B in your diagram not the black wire. It's better to put that wire directly to battery, this wire feeds IG the trigger wire via the relay. The original untouched black line feeding battery is wire from alternator putting power into said battery. This wire can corrode and melt. My diagram is the hand written one not the above picture which is misleading. Don't over think it all we doing is feeding the trigger wire directly from battery via a relay which is now been switched on from ignition wire. The voltage drop on this wire is pretty horrific through ignition switch which will not affect relay operation but causes total chaos with alternator control circuit ramping up voltage as it thinks battery is low. I remember riding to Italy from UK in one hit got there battery was totally gone and swollen was new. Was bump starting it then, with luggage not fun, at that moment was determined to sort this. Mines not like that now as I decided to make my own loom from scratch with complete different type of fuse box so all my circuits run completely independent of each other. No voltage drop now and running a tiny lithium battery with high compression. Have to admit battery is old now and starting to take a bit of waking up like an old engine with old thick oil. Most odd to see.

With this quantity price is £20 including uk postage. He's just got too check next week that he can do it the way he's thinking to keep cost down

That is good question not actually sure. Would need have look inside see if step is there first, if so would say so but pays to measure.