davecara

@Swirltry Lymm Engine Components or Kings in Liverpool

Just to add, I bought an E10002. Change out of £15 too!! New old stock AIRTEX pumps Here's to my next stupid idea!!

@homercarbs for now, efi in the future Just found about 80 fuel pumps under the stairs in work so I’m sorely tempted to dust off my cossie T3 and stick it on my EFE

From the specs in the pic, would any of those be suitable for turbo application? Not sure what flowrate I should be looking for

I got on pretty well with Michelin Pilots on my last faired bike, preferred Metzelers once the fairings came off weirdly

1157 motor, bog standard teapot bodywork, decent suspenders and brakes. That'll make a mint sleeper oh, we're all bad influences on here btw

Stopping from 100mph is the same braking force with a 600 as it is an 1100, uprating your brakes is never a bad thing though imo. And if your suspension and brakes aren't up to task, sort them out well before playing with the motor. other than that little nanny speech, as @Swirlsaid, bang an 1100 in there

@fatblokeonbanditwe've broken a crappily modified 750k for bits so we've got everything off the arse end @Swirlcheers mate, I think we're sorted

Anyone know if it's a direct fit?

Grumpy does them iirc

I'll ask here because it's going in a air cooled; Will the 750k back wheel/spacers/caliper go into an RF arm or is that too easy?

As above really, helping a mate throw a b12 powered ET together, staying twin shocked. anyobe got any ideas/suggestions for an arm that'll got in with minimal fuss? We've just bust a slingy 'fighter' for bits and the swinger we've taken out of that is slightly too wide for the frame.

Have you tried a different relay?

No idea would be the honest answer! They hang pretty low under every oil cooled engine I've put them on so there's plenty of clearance for you to get some heat in there and bend them up to fit properly

a smidge under 42mm directly behind the weld (header side of the weld) then that narrows slightly to 39mm before it flares out into the collector. They're not butt welded where you've circled so it may be possible to grind the welds back and separate the pipes, be prepared for lots of white sparks though!!

43mmi make that to be. The standard link pipe has a butterfly valve in it with cables coming off it and a bolt on can

I'll get the vernier over my spare set when I get home, be about 9 o'clock unless someone beats me to it!

I'm using a slabby twin pickup back plate, a B12 rotor and a MK2 bandit loom and CDI. Seems to work fine with the 2/3 sensor unplugged. The existing plug for 1/4 was the same as the bandit one. ive got a set of COPs to try on mine so I'll keep my peepers on this!

Standard B12 headers won't go anywhere near it and neither will my K2 mega bendy Ti headers

1100G system

This is my micron

Little update on this; ive tried a system off an 1100g and that's the closest fit so far but I'm having to run headers 1 and 4 outside the frame rails to make it fit. My slingy micron is immaculate and I don't want to chop it up really The suzuki guru that is Del has suggested that SRAD headers might fit Any suggestions for something that'll go straight on or am I dreaming?

Excellent, nice one chaps. Does the resistor need to be permanantly grounded or switched?

It's a 3 wire switch, I was looking at it on cmsnl last night but can I hell find it now! It turns over ok, albeit a bit slow but that'll be down to the piss poor diy earth strap I've put on it. I've got an aftermarket ign barrel but I was assured by the seller it'll work but that's another avenue to explore!

I'm using a 2000/01 bandit loom and cdi on my EFE, am I right in thinking it won't start unless it thinks it's in neutral? If so any ideas on how to bypass it? The switch it needs has a 2pin plug and the normal single blue wire plug on it and they appear to be like hens teeth!